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What weight gear oil???

Roklimo

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Nailed it, esp on the first part - I've found myself staring at something I'd have never otherwise found had I not decided to spend some quality time doing a different task on one of my vehicles.
I'd have never found a busted axle, or a toasted carrier bearing, or various loose parts, whatever, if I'd have tried to stay clean.

It's getting tougher the older I get, but now and then I plop onto a creeper and roll under my JT just to check things out, learn more about it, where things are, how they are routed. (actually, getting back up is the tougher part)
Yes! Definitely harder getting back up when done. ( And every two minutes to get another tool…)
 

AKDrifter

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No offense, but you ain't gonna like this -

You aren't servicing it. You are only changing most of the fluid and really have no idea what condition things are inside.
Trying to keep yourself and the floor clean isn't doing the truck any favors.
Amazing how people scream about a drain plug and think that dropping fluid and putting new in is some right of passage, a big feat, and yet there's a reason the cover is so easy to take off, and reseal without a lot of effort.
Real servicing is more preventative maintenance and inspection. Drain it, pull that cover, use your hand (yes, get dirty) or if resistant to that, make a scraper from the side of a milk jug and scrape out every bit of fluid you can. That's where the real dirt is, and that's where you truly learn about your differential.
Look for stuff in the bottom (because the drain plug won't really get all the fluid out, let alone things that may have settled there from bad bearings or gears)
Inspect the patterns on the ring gear. Look for galling on the side and spider gears. Look for chips, anything unusual, clean it out good, then button it back up.

BTW - I suspect Dana got the reusable cover gasket/seal from AMC when AMC sold Dana their differential designs years ago. It was so nice servicing the AMC 20s - no drain, pop the cover, clean it out well, leave nothing in the bottom of the housing, inspect things, put the cover back on, refill it.

No offense - but I gotta ask the general population -
changing diff fluid almost seems like a right of passage - some thing you do when 13 to become a man and yet no one bothers taking the cover off (well, very few) and yet are so concerned about changing fluid way early - because friends say it's the right thing to do and you are a better Jeep guy if you do.
So, why not pull the cover?
Why the fuss over a plug when you SHOULD be pulling that cover every time you change the fluid so you can visually inspect the gears, wear pattern, side gears and spiders and so on, and see what crud lays at the bottom of the housing - crud that will not drain out by pulling a plug.
My take (today anyway) is that Dana did us all a favor by taking that drain plug out - not you must truly service it and inspect things an you know exactly how your differential is wearing in and what condition things are in.
You can't tell squat by pulling a plug and dropping what fluid out that will come out. Only if you see glitter and pieces - but by then it's too late., Had you pulled the cover LAST time and looked inside, you may not be seeing glitter this time because you'd have seen and fixed the problem.
Preventative maintenance is visual inspection, not just dropping fluid and being thankful you did't get dirty.
No, DANA/Jeep, did us a big favor by taking that plug out regardless of the perceived reason or opinions of the reason. They forced true preventative maintenance and visual inspection.

I always pull covers off - and always have - since the early 1970s every differential I have ever done anything with - the cover comes off. And I've been thankful in I do that in a couple of cases. I found things that indicated damage I would have NEVER found had there been a drain plug (and most do not have drain plugs - it's really not a common thing to have a drain plug in a differential that has a removable cover)


If you care, which you claim by saying you changed the fluid and do it every 5,000 miles, then you will actually pull that cover. Get dirty. Buy a big galvanized water pan or a large oil pan to let 'er drop into as you pull that cover. Go get a cheap air ratchet to make it go really fast.
This was a lot brother, tell us how you really feel lol. No offense taken ever I know you're trying to help and teach in an eat your vegetables sort of way. I'm never one to dismiss someone who has legitimate points, experience, and is willing to share it. I will say this is the first vehicle I've owned with a differential drain plug. On every other vehicle I own I still pull the cover off once a year, I'm not unfamiliar with the process, or why inspection is a good idea. I don't change diff fluid every 5k though, I change it once a year or after water immersion which happens seldomly in the Jeep. The scheduled fluid change for the differentials in the owners manual is 2years/20k miles but I feel comfortable with once a year if I haven't done any water crossings. If I burn up a gearset because the factory didn't set the gears correctly and I follow the maintenance schedule I'll have them deal with it. Don't get me wrong, I'm up for a good mechanical fight on my own stuff when I'm motivated. My brother and I are entering our late fathers Edsel into Hagertys Great Race in '24 or '25. It's the most time I've spent with my brother in years and getting the car torn down and prepped for a couple thousand mile journey has been a blast. On a new car that is under warranty and has parts available for it, I'm just not going to stress how the diff fluids were changed, or even how the gears look. Like I said if it ends up going under warranty I have receipts for the gallons of Severe Gear I go through annually. And if it goes out of warranty I'm out a ring and pinion set and have the axle guy at work set them for me on lunch, no biggie. I try not to let anything upset me too much, life is too short.
 

jac04

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How can they want you to be exactly 1/8th below the hole, like it actually matters, and then say “approximately”?? ...
I wondered about that as well. I first ran into this 1/8" below the fill hole cr@p on my 94 Dodge Ram. I thought it was strange since everything else that I've ever worked on has been 'fill to the bottom of the fill hole'. On my JK, the manual states "Lubricant should be at the bottom edge of the oil fill hole." Anyhow, on my JT, I just made sure it was on a level surface, filled to the bottom of the hole, and then let it sit until no oil was coming out of the hole at all. This was my second oil change using this method.
 

Maximus Gladius

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I wondered about that as well. I first ran into this 1/8" below the fill hole cr@p on my 94 Dodge Ram. I thought it was strange since everything else that I've ever worked on has been 'fill to the bottom of the fill hole'. On my JK, the manual states "Lubricant should be at the bottom edge of the oil fill hole." Anyhow, on my JT, I just made sure it was on a level surface, filled to the bottom of the hole, and then let it sit until no oil was coming out of the hole at all. This was my second oil change using this method.
I think for some to read that it has to be below where the hole is engineered might scare some people from attempting this scientific challenge. How is someone supposed to get a tape measure in there to measure it right so I think people give up. I believe the transfer case says the same thing if I'm not mistaken.
 

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Hootbro

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I think for some to read that it has to be below where the hole is engineered might scare some people from attempting this scientific challenge. How is someone supposed to get a tape measure in there to measure it right so I think people give up. I believe the transfer case says the same thing if I'm not mistaken.
Been awhile but I remember back in the day on other vehicles where one had to measure below the fill hole like of a diff or manual transmission fill, the trick was to find something bendable into a J-Hook like a pipe cleaner and hook into the hole and measure the distance from the bend to the fluid line on the device used. Most just used their calibrated pinky finger and made the call.
 

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Dougstdig

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My late 3rd quarter early 4th quarter JTRD does not have a front drain plug. Somewhere during this time I think they stopped using them due to it backing out on the trail with a little help from trail friction.
 

smlobx

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What is the recommended mileage to do this (on a Rubicon) if that makes a difference?
 

AKDrifter

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smlobx

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^^^
So 40,000 miles or 4 years for the axles and 6/60 for the transfer case under severe use.
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