Power running boards

[Beemer533]

I've read and read the PDF directions preparing for a now delayed delivery............
And I've been all over under and around my Jeep - I've run a heck of a lot of wire and cable in this thing for the snow plow, backup lights and 12v power to the bed, all taking a path similar to what the RSE instructions indicate but for the life of me - what the he## is this picture supposed to be?
I've even gotten into things to put pigtail connections in the fender lights to trigger my plow lights, the wires from the aux switches run back and down along/in the right frame rail, all going down like RSE wants theirs and I still don't recognize this picture! Were they under it standing on their head or something?

That is the bottom of the aux battery box. The connectors in the bottom right of the picture are on the firewall.

I think that picture was taken with the passenger wheel and fender liner removed

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[ShadowsPapa]

That is the bottom of the aux battery box. The connectors in the bottom right of the picture are on the firewall.

I think that picture was taken with the passenger wheel and fender liner removed

I wondered, as there's no way to get a photo like that without the fender liner, maybe more, being removed. Thanks for confirming.

Of course the Wrangler 4xe has no aux battery, but there's sure a lot of other stuff in the way in there. A lot of stuff to get the cable around and past up to the PDC area.

I have to do the same on my JT - and after today (and I still have a couple hours to go on this one), not looking forward to it.

 

[Beemer533]

Yeah, I've seen under the hood of a 4xe and man I thought my engine bay was crowded!

Not much room there..

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Left side works fine now. It's a #@$% to get the magnets lined up just right, and I set two of the magnets down on the floor of the Jeep while lining things up - they found each other and BANG (literally) they snapped to each other and one busted to bits.
So I will have to rob a magnet out of the Gladiator set.
Speaking of robbing, looks like the right side will have to come down again and I need to rob parts from the Gladiator set -
the right side doesn't work at all.
I disconnected and tested the motor and connected to a battery directly, the step snaps down (I mean SNAPS down) and when I reverse the leads, it snaps back up BANG (maybe 12 volts is too much?)

So it appears that the circuit board is not working.
And guess what that means - pull the right step setup back off.
We leave Thursday - with THIS Jeep so I have no choice but to have it wrapped up, even if it means putting the MOPAR Sahara step back on the right side for the trip,
I will be contacting RSE support Monday (once they open - an hour later than central time) and seeing what they suggest - and if it's ok to pull the circuit board out of my other set to get this setup working.

NOT looking forward to pulling the right step back off, taking it apart, and putting it back on. Basically, there goes another day and a half.

The wiring harness is almost too short to connect to the right side step - I really have to pull hard to get the circuit board connector to connect on the right side. It's fine on the left side.

 

[jebiruph]

The wiring harness is almost too short to connect to the right side step - I really have to pull hard to get the circuit board connector to connect on the right side. It's fine on the left side.

Can you adjust the harness to get some of the left side slack over to the right side by moving the right side harness further towards the back? That would involving pulling some of the left side harness back over to the right and maybe extending the battery wiring. We were guessing a little on the original harness placement.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Can you adjust the harness to get some of the left side slack over to the right side by moving the right side harness further towards the back? That would involving pulling some of the left side harness back over to the right and maybe extending the battery wiring. We were guessing a little on the original harness placement.

There's no slack on the left. The wiring for the switch at the dash barely made it, and the left front door sensor wire is taught.
moving cable back from the left side wouldn't help anyway - I'll have to move things at the battery area and move some of the right side cable back.
It works but is a pain to disconnect and connect.
In any case, that right side has to come back off because it doesn't work at all.
The motor is fine - I connected to a 12v battery and got the step to come down, reversed the leads and got it to go up, but there's apparently nothing coming from the circuit board to the motor.
A wire did get pinched (because it's so tight in there) not sure if that did it or not, but I need to call their support when I get back from the dentist and see if I can pull the circuit board from the JT right side and swap things out. That means I have to pull the whole right step off again because you can only get things out via the vehicle side of the steps. There's no other access (too bad they didn't put a removable panel on the bottom for that and those parts do go bad now and then from what I've been reading)

They absolutely need to make some more mods to things -
The switch bracket that's supposed to connect to the dash using the same screw that holds the OBD port to the dash - they have the switch bracket so far to the left it pushes really hard on the door harness. You really have to force the harness to the side to get the step switch bracket in place. I'm going to have to wrap the door harness to protect it because it's stretched across the left edge of the step power switch bracket.
And the left side door sensor leads - the rear reached ok, but the left front you have to make the connection behind the B pillar trim holding the cable connection out hard to get it connected.
The right side circuit board connector is really tight - they need even just 2" more there would be great.
The only hope for that is seeing if I can move things back from the battery area to give some slack, but I'm more concerned about getting the right side working before Tuesday - Barbara needs the Jeep to pick up a friend to go to a get-together and her friend won't be able to get in now that I have the Sahara step off and this one doesn't work.
I may have to let her have my truck for the day Tuesday as I'm not convinced I can get that ride step off, torn apart, and fixed before Tuesday.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Contacted RSE support today. I told them of my testing of the motor with a battery, etc. and other things I'd done to troubleshoot.
They agreed, probably the control module on that side.
I asked if it was the same as the right side of the JT set since I had a set laying there for my JT.
Yup.
When I saw how it was made, and how it was just easier to swap the whole motor and module assembly, they approved making the swap - motor with module assembly.
I prepped everything, disconnected cables, unbolted everything, Jerry came by and helped get the step off the Wrangler, and the switch was made, step was put back on and tested and all is fine.
So the whole system is now working.

Pic taken with garage lights off, sun setting, to see if the lights worked - yup, they work.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Instead of a new thread on a topic for which there are already 3 or 4 threads, I figure the experts on the RSE power steps may see this one resurrected from sleep mode..........

Two questions - first the simple one:
Lubrication - seems the obvious is the pivot points for the "steps" themselves, and the aluminum pieces that pivot the step down and back up. Any pivot point makes sense.
Is that correct? Any pivot point, especially where the step is attached and up inside where the aluminum/silver piece pivots.

Silicon spray ok?
Got a teeny squeak near the rear of the left side step on my JT - or else it's my knees, wasn't real sure but figured they've been on in some bad weather, can't hurt to lube things anyway.

Second question may be just as easy, we'll see....... video below, audio near the end is the part of interest.

I contacted their support saying my wife and I both really like the steps, a lot, and they work fine, however, my right side has an annoying "CLANG!" when it closes.
I tested the steps on the Wrangler today - same thing. Left pretty quiet, right has a clang although not as bad as my JT steps. Sounds as if coming from the front.

They said - no problem, we've got some pads we'll send you for that. (pic below)
I guessed as to where they might go - and put one on one of the braces welded into the step housing near the front. It stopped the clang but the step part then stood out from the housing over 1/8" - not really a great thing. I'd rather have the step clang than to stick out to get snagged on something or the dirt that would gather around the edge of it in winter. Not impressed with the solution.
HOWEVER, maybe that is my fault - maybe I didn't put one in the correct place?
I don't mind some sound from them. It's rather nice to close the door and be able to hear that they really DID retract, no, a magnet didn't fall off the door and no, I'm not driving around with the step sticking down looking silly and getting caught on things to rip them off.
Where do these go - and do they work without making the step stick out from the housing? I'd say the step stuck out at least as thick as this pad is.
I'm thinking I might be better off gluing some really thin cork up in there if I can find out where it's actually hitting to make the clang. I see no signs of anything hitting, no marks, no scarring, no rub marks at all.
Anyone else with experience on this minor annoyance? It just makes them sound cheap - and they are built better than that.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Instead of a new thread on a topic for which there are already 3 or 4 threads, I figure the experts on the RSE power steps may see this one resurrected from sleep mode..........

Two questions - first the simple one:
Lubrication - seems the obvious is the pivot points for the "steps" themselves, and the aluminum pieces that pivot the step down and back up. Any pivot point makes sense.
Is that correct? Any pivot point, especially where the step is attached and up inside where the aluminum/silver piece pivots.

Silicon spray ok?
Got a teeny squeak near the rear of the left side step on my JT - or else it's my knees, wasn't real sure but figured they've been on in some bad weather, can't hurt to lube things anyway.

Second question may be just as easy, we'll see....... video below, audio near the end is the part of interest.

I contacted their support saying my wife and I both really like the steps, a lot, and they work fine, however, my right side has an annoying "CLANG!" when it closes.
I tested the steps on the Wrangler today - same thing. Left pretty quiet, right has a clang although not as bad as my JT steps. Sounds as if coming from the front.

They said - no problem, we've got some pads we'll send you for that. (pic below)
I guessed as to where they might go - and put one on one of the braces welded into the step housing near the front. It stopped the clang but the step part then stood out from the housing over 1/8" - not really a great thing. I'd rather have the step clang than to stick out to get snagged on something or the dirt that would gather around the edge of it in winter. Not impressed with the solution.
HOWEVER, maybe that is my fault - maybe I didn't put one in the correct place?
I don't mind some sound from them. It's rather nice to close the door and be able to hear that they really DID retract, no, a magnet didn't fall off the door and no, I'm not driving around with the step sticking down looking silly and getting caught on things to rip them off.
Where do these go - and do they work without making the step stick out from the housing? I'd say the step stuck out at least as thick as this pad is.
I'm thinking I might be better off gluing some really thin cork up in there if I can find out where it's actually hitting to make the clang. I see no signs of anything hitting, no marks, no scarring, no rub marks at all.
Anyone else with experience on this minor annoyance? It just makes them sound cheap - and they are built better than that.

I use pure silicone spray on all pivot points, and directly on the springs. I’ve had zero issues. If I get a squeak it’s because I haven’t sprayed it for a while. I try to do it every month or so if I remember.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Instead of a new thread on a topic for which there are already 3 or 4 threads, I figure the experts on the RSE power steps may see this one resurrected from sleep mode..........

Two questions - first the simple one:
Lubrication - seems the obvious is the pivot points for the "steps" themselves, and the aluminum pieces that pivot the step down and back up. Any pivot point makes sense.
Is that correct? Any pivot point, especially where the step is attached and up inside where the aluminum/silver piece pivots.

Silicon spray ok?
Got a teeny squeak near the rear of the left side step on my JT - or else it's my knees, wasn't real sure but figured they've been on in some bad weather, can't hurt to lube things anyway.

Second question may be just as easy, we'll see....... video below, audio near the end is the part of interest.

I contacted their support saying my wife and I both really like the steps, a lot, and they work fine, however, my right side has an annoying "CLANG!" when it closes.
I tested the steps on the Wrangler today - same thing. Left pretty quiet, right has a clang although not as bad as my JT steps. Sounds as if coming from the front.

They said - no problem, we've got some pads we'll send you for that. (pic below)
I guessed as to where they might go - and put one on one of the braces welded into the step housing near the front. It stopped the clang but the step part then stood out from the housing over 1/8" - not really a great thing. I'd rather have the step clang than to stick out to get snagged on something or the dirt that would gather around the edge of it in winter. Not impressed with the solution.
HOWEVER, maybe that is my fault - maybe I didn't put one in the correct place?
I don't mind some sound from them. It's rather nice to close the door and be able to hear that they really DID retract, no, a magnet didn't fall off the door and no, I'm not driving around with the step sticking down looking silly and getting caught on things to rip them off.
Where do these go - and do they work without making the step stick out from the housing? I'd say the step stuck out at least as thick as this pad is.
I'm thinking I might be better off gluing some really thin cork up in there if I can find out where it's actually hitting to make the clang. I see no signs of anything hitting, no marks, no scarring, no rub marks at all.
Anyone else with experience on this minor annoyance? It just makes them sound cheap - and they are built better than that.

Mine both hit with a metal clang. I agree that it’s nice to know they’re up when in the cab, but I’m very interested in the dampening solution. I’d really like to know if you figure this out. I agree that I’d prefer them to close all the way though. I’ll take the noise over any poke.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I use pure silicone spray on all pivot points, and directly on the springs. I’ve had zero issues. If I get a squeak it’s because I haven’t sprayed it for a while. I try to do it every month or so if I remember.

That's exactly what I bought - very clear, not greasy, just a quality silicone spray and I sprayed all pivot points, the linkage from motor to the arm, springs, etc.

(it didn't do a thing for my knees, though)

Mine both hit with a metal clang. I agree that it’s nice to know they’re up when in the cab, but I’m very interested in the dampening solution. I’d really like to know if you figure this out. I agree that I’d prefer them to close all the way though. I’ll take the noise over any poke.

I'll have to try to do some more thinking and looking on the clang thing. It's "annoying" but it's more-so because it's so loud for others to hear. But yeah, I'll take the sound over the poke.
On both of our Jeeps, the left side isn't bad and you can just listen and hear when it's closed (which, IMO, is nice) but the right side is a distinct clang, not just a thud or thump.

 

[AGladiator22]

I had the AMP XL running boards installed on my 21 Gladiator Mojave. They work well. The top of the step is about 12 inches above the ground.

at the end of Dec, I traded for a 23 Wrangler 4xe. Go Rhino now has powered steps. Those were available and I bought them. Realtruck had a good price. I had them installed. They have a separate wiring harness that connects at the battery. They use the magnets sensors on the doors. The steps are about 11 inches high from the ground.

I must add, the install instructions were not great, and Go Rhino did not have tech support available when we called. The left side connectors were wired backwards. You could see the red and black wires were reversed, at a connector. My installer was able to correct for this and fixed it.

hope this helps!

Thanks for the pics. I'm looking at the Rhino powersteps for my '22 JTOD. Would you have a pic of the Rhino's in the 'up' position you could post? I'm wondering how much of the bracket and bolt area is visible.

 

[MojaveLawyer]

Go Rhino Power Steps (Textured)

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