Grease Zirks

[jav_eee]

I have this same clunk/thump when letting off the brake. Feels like the axle is shifting but I’m sure it’s the slip yoke or now the locker apparently?

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[ShadowsPapa]

clunk/thump when letting off the brake

That can be:
Caliper shifting, loose caliper mounting bracket bolts, or the pads "stick" to the rotor and pop loose.
Owners of other vehicles have talked of similar sounds, and those are the most common issues. "stiction" can cause pads to stick under certain braking.

 

[jav_eee]

That can be:
Caliper shifting, loose caliper mounting bracket bolts, or the pads "stick" to the rotor and pop loose.
Owners of other vehicles have talked of similar sounds, and those are the most common issues. "stiction" can cause pads to stick under certain braking.

I already made sure the caliper bolya were torqued correctly. To me this feels like the same dry slip yoke bump I’ve experienced in other vehicles. F150s especially. I need to crawl under there and see if it can be lubed.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I already made sure the caliper bolya were torqued correctly. To me this feels like the same dry slip yoke bump I’ve experienced in other vehicles. F150s especially. I need to crawl under there and see if it can be lubed.

Good, glad you did. The issue Jeep had was limited in scope, but after seeing that, and seeing posts from a few who had loose or missing caliper bracket bolts, I'm glad to see that you checked! Better to keep you safe and not assume oh, they're fine.
I've never had that joint cause any noise at all. But then - there's always a first time, or a chance you have something that was at the loose end of tolerance/spec.
I never found any way to lube it.
On my car, ironically even the front driveshaft has a zerk in the front driveshaft slip joint - I saw ironically because the shaft runs of course from the front transfer case output to the front differential pinion yoke.
You might say - sure, they need one there because the differential can move.
Not on the Eagle - the front differential is mounted solidly to the engine. It's bolted directly to brackets on the engine. It can't possibly move.
They need a joint there to account for any minor difference in distance from t-case front yoke to the front pinion yoke but from there, that distance should not change since t-case is bolted solidly to and is part of the transmission, and so on.
I grease it, but if I ever see that it's moved, it's an emergency check of the front differential hanger bolts! That baby comes loose I'm in serious trouble.
It takes about 30 minutes or so to lube that car - in part because you may have to raise a wheel to be able to turn the driveshaft to get to the grease zerks in all of the u-joints and slip joints and it's worse because I replaced the factory sealed ball joints with greaseable joints.

If you find a way to lube anything on the JT - let us know. I may be being silly about it, but a driveshaft slip joint that has no way to lube makes me wonder. Call me old-fashioned, I guess. I like some sealed joints, but not all.

 

[jav_eee]

Good, glad you did. The issue Jeep had was limited in scope, but after seeing that, and seeing posts from a few who had loose or missing caliper bracket bolts, I'm glad to see that you checked! Better to keep you safe and not assume oh, they're fine.
I've never had that joint cause any noise at all. But then - there's always a first time, or a chance you have something that was at the loose end of tolerance/spec.
I never found any way to lube it.
On my car, ironically even the front driveshaft has a zerk in the front driveshaft slip joint - I saw ironically because the shaft runs of course from the front transfer case output to the front differential pinion yoke.
You might say - sure, they need one there because the differential can move.
Not on the Eagle - the front differential is mounted solidly to the engine. It's bolted directly to brackets on the engine. It can't possibly move.
They need a joint there to account for any minor difference in distance from t-case front yoke to the front pinion yoke but from there, that distance should not change since t-case is bolted solidly to and is part of the transmission, and so on.
I grease it, but if I ever see that it's moved, it's an emergency check of the front differential hanger bolts! That baby comes loose I'm in serious trouble.
It takes about 30 minutes or so to lube that car - in part because you may have to raise a wheel to be able to turn the driveshaft to get to the grease zerks in all of the u-joints and slip joints and it's worse because I replaced the factory sealed ball joints with greaseable joints.

If you find a way to lube anything on the JT - let us know. I may be being silly about it, but a driveshaft slip joint that has no way to lube makes me wonder. Call me old-fashioned, I guess. I like some sealed joints, but not all.

Yikes! yeah I’ll take a look when I get home. It doesn’t do it all the time so it’s hard to replicate in the driveway.

I’m gonna check the torque on the control arms too. I’m haven’t noticed anything else though that would indicate they’re loose.The bump comes when letting off the brakes at a stop or sometimes from accelerating away from it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Yikes! yeah I’ll take a look when I get home. It doesn’t do it all the time so it’s hard to replicate in the driveway.

I’m gonna check the torque on the control arms too. I’m haven’t noticed anything else though that would indicate they’re loose.The bump comes when letting off the brakes at a stop or sometimes from accelerating away from it.

Good to check control arms as well, then.
Even thought these are parallel arms and not leaf springs, there's still a certain amount of wind-up as witnessed by those who have wheel hop under heavy load in a surface like snow. The bushings compress and decompress, but if there's any loose bolts, there's also pressure against them.
Granted we don't have 500 hp and 450 foot pounds of torque against 'em, there's still a certain amount of differential wrap-up as the pinion tries to climb the ring gear on acceleration, taking the front of the differential or axle housing up with it as far as it can in the process.
(stated for lurkers - or subsequent visitors as jav_eee may already know this well but others may not)

 

[MikeSalt]

My chief had a zerk fitting on just about every moving part. It had 240k miles on it when I sold it. Not to mention most bolts were 1/2” or 9/16. No computer but loads of rust. I wonder if my Mojave will make it to 240k.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Yeah, similar for my Eagle - it's approaching 200,000 now. I believe it's at 195,000, I'd have to look in my book since I changed speedometer heads with a NOS unit because the original was so sun-faded. The original 193K+ and the miles on the new speedo must be about 195 by now.
No rust. But then that's because I've kept it that way as a former CA car now in IA.
Fitting everywhere. 3 on each driveshaft (u-joints and slip joints), upper and lower ball joints - except the left lower because I found a NOS left lower control arm complete with original type sealed ball joint. Idler arm, pitman arm, each end of the left and right tie rods, man, am I missing anything?
I have a power grease gun (Milwaukee) with a long hose as I'm getting too old to fight those fitting with an old-fashioned grease gun that barely gets to the fittings, then having to pump a lever or whatever.

 

[Maccam26]

That can be:
Caliper shifting, loose caliper mounting bracket bolts, or the pads "stick" to the rotor and pop loose.
Owners of other vehicles have talked of similar sounds, and those are the most common issues. "stiction" can cause pads to stick under certain braking.

So if pads are sticking, lubricate the caliper slides?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

So if pads are sticking, lubricate the caliper slides?

That's a thing, too, but pads can actually sort of adhere to the rotor at times.
But definitely worth keeping an eye on the slides. Keep 'em free from rust, and use a lube on them that can't travel to the brake pads.

 

[Maccam26]

I’m replacing all four shock absorbers on mine tomorrow to send the originals to fox for rebuilds , I’ll lubricate caliper sliders and guides at same time hopefully that will stop my issue

 

[Lunentucker]

Zerks

Clunk

 

[ShadowsPapa]

 

[jav_eee]

That's a thing, too, but pads can actually sort of adhere to the rotor at times.
But definitely worth keeping an eye on the slides. Keep 'em free from rust, and use a lube on them that can't travel to the brake pads.

Ah so lubricate the rotors too. Noted!

THIS IS A JOKE DO NOT DO THAT.

 

[Maccam26]

Well my thump / clunk after breaking was definitely the suspension “Stiction” from the failing leaking Fox shock. I did clean the rotors and calipers while I was in there

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