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Alu-Cab Canopy Camper Roll Call

cug

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I’m just using a bed rug, plenty thick and great insulation. My cabinets attach to the bed rails and factory bed cargo points.
Originally, I was contemplating this as well, but it isn't what I'm planning for my build. When you say factory cargo points, do you mean the big d-rings near the passenger cabin and the (fixed installed?) hoops near the tailgate?
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Originally, I was contemplating this as well, but it isn't what I'm planning for my build. When you say factory cargo points, do you mean the big d-rings near the passenger cabin and the (fixed installed?) hoops near the tailgate?
Correct.
 
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Hey, got a question for those who have done their own interior build:

What have you done for a bed or base plate?
+1 to no base plate. Just 50 lbs of dead weight, so you can screw another 100 lbs of dead weight plywood to it.

I just have a section of carpet foam, with some utility carpet over it just for comfort on bare feet in the cold. Interior build is very minimal, so no need for fixed furniture. 1” wire grids and soft molle panels with a bunch of molle pouches in a few spots to keep kitchen and odds and ends organized. And (this is actually the most important part) I don’t bring things I won’t use. Turns out the load is rather small when I do that. Works for me anyway; definitely wouldn’t work for some others I’ve met who use their Alu-Cab more like an RV
 

cug

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Just 50 lbs of dead weight, so you can screw another 100 lbs of dead weight plywood to it
I don't know what type of baseplate you suggest, but the one I'm considering (to also insulate and set up as base for furniture) is 22lbs for the whole plate.

We will travel longer term and will need some comfort to not get frustrated too quickly. We are not rock crawling but traveling and possibly getting through a bit more difficult terrain, but the goal is travel to see things not travel for the sake of pushing an expensive vehicle over terrain I'd rather be hiking in.
 

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I got my Alu-Cab installed along with the 14 gal water tank. I did the following changes to accommodate the weight (at least I thought). Put in the AEV 3 inch lift with heavy duty springs this is the 8100 as recommended by many people. The suspension seems fine but I notice when loaded (the cab was really loaded on this trip) the steering is suspect. Too much roll and drift is tough to control especially at speeds above 70mph. I had the Teraflex steering stabilizer put on and on the highway only the firm works well enough to drive.

My question is what else have you done to your Gladiator for steering components to help with the weight of the cab and vehicle? I still have mostly the Rubicon pieces in it with the exception of the AEV replacement parts.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

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I got my Alu-Cab installed along with the 14 gal water tank. I did the following changes to accommodate the weight (at least I thought). Put in the AEV 3 inch lift with heavy duty springs this is the 8100 as recommended by many people. The suspension seems fine but I notice when loaded (the cab was really loaded on this trip) the steering is suspect. Too much roll and drift is tough to control especially at speeds above 70mph. I had the Teraflex steering stabilizer put on and on the highway only the firm works well enough to drive.

My question is what else have you done to your Gladiator for steering components to help with the weight of the cab and vehicle? I still have mostly the Rubicon pieces in it with the exception of the AEV replacement parts.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Neville
You might want to consider going with a Hellwig rear sway bar to help with the stability piece. I personally run everything Synergy Manufacturing offers up front for steering. Steer Smarts, Apex, RPM, Rock Jock all make quality aftermarket tie rod/draglink/track bar heavy duty replacements.
 
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I got my Alu-Cab installed along with the 14 gal water tank. I did the following changes to accommodate the weight (at least I thought). Put in the AEV 3 inch lift with heavy duty springs this is the 8100 as recommended by many people. The suspension seems fine but I notice when loaded (the cab was really loaded on this trip) the steering is suspect. Too much roll and drift is tough to control especially at speeds above 70mph. I had the Teraflex steering stabilizer put on and on the highway only the firm works well enough to drive.

My question is what else have you done to your Gladiator for steering components to help with the weight of the cab and vehicle? I still have mostly the Rubicon pieces in it with the exception of the AEV replacement parts.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Neville
I assume you got the kit with the drop-correction brackets for the control arms? What's the rake like with it fully loaded? Did you install the high-capacity coils in the front as well? I have the same kit plus the Hellwig and just installed the Teraflex stabilizer, but don't have more than 20 miles on the stabilizer so I can't give an opinion on that yet.
 

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I assume you got the kit with the drop-correction brackets for the control arms? What's the rake like with it fully loaded? Did you install the high-capacity coils in the front as well? I have the same kit plus the Hellwig and just installed the Teraflex stabilizer, but don't have more than 20 miles on the stabilizer so I can't give an opinion on that yet.
The full kit with the correction brackets for the control arms. Fully loaded it still has a slight rake to it and the High-capacity coils on both front and rear.
Jeep Gladiator Alu-Cab Canopy Camper Roll Call 20230628_Trip_to_Virginia_0936
 

cug

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Really not wanting to be snarky, but for me the #1 thing I do when adding a significant amount of weight is to drive slower.
 

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Really not wanting to be snarky, but for me the #1 thing I do when adding a significant amount of weight is to drive slower.
Absolutely but even driving slowly the issue still persists just that it can be easier to correct
 

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cug

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Absolutely but even driving slowly the issue still persists just that it can be easier to correct
Understood, just referring to this:

Too much roll and drift is tough to control especially at speeds above 70mph.
and

the cab was really loaded on this trip
I would not expect a truck that is probably way above GVWR, mostly biased to the rear end, to drive nicely at higher speeds. The diesel might tolerate that actually a bit better due to the extra 400 odd pounds on the front axle, but still ... expectations need to be adjusted just as much as suspension.
 

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I’ll second the Hellwig rear sway… makes a huge difference. Additional tweaks include the AEV steering stabilizer, Steer Smarts adjustable track-bar in the front and a Steer Smarts track-bar bracket and sector shaft brace. I’m still running the low end mono tube shocks from the AEV lift, can’t decide if I should replace those with something fancy or just replace them every year or two. Given the weight I have zero complaints about how it drives, but it ain’t a sports car either.
 

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Hey, got a question for those who have done their own interior build:

What have you done for a bed or base plate?

I'm looking into some thermal insulation and then putting a marine grade plywood sheet on top of that. Now I'm thinking about whether to fill the "lower" areas of the bed, they are about 12mm (1/2") lower than the "higher" areas (How do you call that? Corrugated?). Worth it? Overkill? At this point I think it might just be overkill. Maybe I'll put an extra layer of insulation foam into the "valley" and the plywood with a thinner insulation attached to it on top. I don't want it to become squishy since I want to attach the rest of the furniture to it, but I also don't want to overhink/overdue it.
Not an ACC. But what I did. Then put herculiner on both sides. 15/32 Baltic birch. Hard to find not cheap. Going to end up with some sort of cushioning on the wood and a saddle blanket or indoor outdoor carpet.
Jeep Gladiator Alu-Cab Canopy Camper Roll Call IMG_20230712_123944596
Jeep Gladiator Alu-Cab Canopy Camper Roll Call IMG_20230602_162905579
 
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cug

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Not an ACC. But what I did. Then put herculiner on both sides. 15/32 Baltic birch. Hard to find not cheap. Going to end up with some sort of cushioning on the wood and a saddle blanket or indoor outdoor carpet.
Looks good to me! I was thinking either 12mm Baltic Birch or Marine Grade Ply (they are similar from what I understand, haven't used either so far, I'm more familiar with the plywood that is used to build flight cases for music and technical equipment in Europe).

I was planning to put some insulation underneath. Probably first fill the "corrugations" with some lightweight material, then add some simple adhesive foam insulation, probaly just 3/8 or so, then add the plywood and finish it with some kind of vinyl flooring. Bolt it all down from the sides. Build simple furniture on top and bolt to base and sides. I'm likely not using 8020 for weight reasons, even though it is so amazingly simple to work with.
 

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Looks good to me! I was thinking either 12mm Baltic Birch or Marine Grade Ply (they are similar from what I understand, haven't used either so far, I'm more familiar with the plywood that is used to build flight cases for music and technical equipment in Europe).

I was planning to put some insulation underneath. Probably first fill the "corrugations" with some lightweight material, then add some simple adhesive foam insulation, probaly just 3/8 or so, then add the plywood and finish it with some kind of vinyl flooring. Bolt it all down from the sides. Build simple furniture on top and bolt to base and sides. I'm likely not using 8020 for weight reasons, even though it is so amazingly simple to work with.
Check out Tnutz aluminum extrusion.
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