Tie Rod / Drag Link Choice?

[Fpolanco]

It's been excellent so far, definitely made my steering feel firmer after adding the setup. I ran it since install until recently on almost 35s (315/70/17) and just this week swapped to 37s. So far it's performing great with both setups, although I haven't gotten to play with it out on a trail with the 37s.
As of right now, I absolutely love the purchase, would buy it again.

Sweet...thanks for the quick response!

I had the Synergy set up on my JKU and was shocked how much of a difference it made. The Rock Jock is slightly better for my budget too...

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[3VOLVE]

Sweet...thanks for the quick response!

I had the Synergy set up on my JKU and was shocked how much of a difference it made. The Rock Jock is slightly better for my budget too...

I am running the Currectlync and it bent it this weekend at Rausch Creek. Pay the extra couple of hundred bucks for something more robust.

 

[NGNERD]

Rpm, apex, doetch, Rusty's, artec. They all use more or less the same design with 2.5 ton ends. I went aluminum over steel for better impact resistance and weight savings. The only reason to go steel would be to save some money.

Did you notice any negatives with aluminum and your on road performance? Considering going RPM or Apex, but if on road perfomance is not as good, then steel, thanks

 

[bleda2002]

Did you notice any negatives with aluminum and your on road performance? Considering going RPM or Apex, but if on road perfomance is not as good, then steel, thanks

Noticed a significant improvement over stock actually. Less bumpsteer, tighter steering wheel, less play. My stock stuff was really loose with everything but the pitman arm joint literally falling out on its own when I loosened it.

I also watched my tie rod flex over a big ass rock and then bounce right back without even changing my alignment settings, so Im a big believer in aluminum now.

 

[Vtur]

Did you notice any negatives with aluminum and your on road performance? Considering going RPM or Apex, but if on road perfomance is not as good, then steel, thanks

The 2" solid billet aluminum stock will outlast the TREs.

 

[JTGuy]

Had aluminum and went to Synergy. It's .25 thick wall hardened chrome steel. The Aluminum is just the bar so now you have steel and aluminum. The aluminum will flex but the steel doesn't and the TRE will eventually give. Ask Lite Brite. I like the bling of the aluminum and for most there will never be a problem.

 

[Texops]

I think Lite bright uses Rock Krawler aluminum now because the rod ends are better than any other aluminum ones. When i upgrade I’m going with that .

 

[JTGuy]

I think you are correct. Fusion also has some so large that you have to trim the rotor dust shield for them to fit.

 

[Texops]

I think you are correct. Fusion also has some so large that you have to trim the rotor dust shield for them to fit.

I had RPM aluminum on my last Gladiator and it held up really well.

 

[JTPatriot]

I went with the Rock Krawler Pro X tie rod and drag link. So far the tie rod as been great. Unfortunately I could not use the bottom mount drag link as I could not get it to work with my hydro assist. If I had the lift for a raised track bar I could have used the top mount drag link and it would all have fit. One nice thing with the drag link is if you get the bottom mount and run it then go with a larger lift and do a raised track bar you can by the kit to change the end from bottom to top, no need to buy a new TRE.
Oh, by the way I have the drag link for sale in the market place if anyone is interested in it.

 

[NGNERD]

Noticed a significant improvement over stock actually. Less bumpsteer, tighter steering wheel, less play. My stock stuff was really loose with everything but the pitman arm joint literally falling out on its own when I loosened it.

I also watched my tie rod flex over a big ass rock and then bounce right back without even changing my alignment settings, so Im a big believer in aluminum now.

Great, thank you for the response

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