Transmission service

[DanW]

How are you checking the level when you re-fill? Are you measuring exactly how much came out and putting that much back in? Or is there a way to tell at the fill hole?

Also, what is the most challenging part of this?

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[Gladiator85]

How are you checking the level when you re-fill? Are you measuring exactly how much came out and putting that much back in? Or is there a way to tell at the fill hole?

Also, what is the most challenging part of this?

The first time I did use what I pulled out as a guide to have an idea as a starting point. When you do it fill it until it runs out usually about 3 quarts. Put plug back in but don't tighten. Start engine then go to either your offroad pages to see your guages if you have the 8.4 U-Connect. You can also use the center cluster trans temp too.

Begin shifting through the gears to purge any air out of the valve body and fill the transmission back up with line pressure. Put it in reverse for 5 seconds, drive then M2 then go back to park. Keep watching temp because it needs to be minimum of 86F to check and no more than 124F. Keep performing the above process to help warm up the fluid and purge any air.

I check it around 100F and add fluid until it begins to trickle out of the fill hole. You don't want it pouring out just a slow stream like a faucet just barly turned on. Both times I did it I took right at 6 quarts.

One important note do not tighten filter nuts beyond snug. You want the filter to give a little so it will allow a little movement so you do not cause issues getting fluid into the valve body pick up hole.

Also once you warm up the transmission completely and allow the cooler to open and circulate let cool and do an additional level check just as above that way if level dropped any you be properly filled. Hope this helps.

 

[jac04]

...
Begin shifting through the gears to purge any air out of the valve body and fill the transmission back up with line pressure. Put it in reverse for 5 seconds, drive then M2 then go back to park. Keep watching temp because it needs to be minimum of 86F to check and no more than 124F. Keep performing the above process to help warm up the fluid and purge any air.
...

The FSM has a specific procedure, and one step involves having the tires off the ground so you can put it in D and accelerate slowly into 2nd gear (tires spinning), then hold for 5 seconds.

Is this not needed?

 

[Gladiator85]

I don't think its needed. Going through the gears will fill up everything.

 

[biodiesel]

When I do my first fluid change, I switch to the PPE pan. The magnetic drain plug on the PPE allows for an easy drain and fill. However, I will drop the PPE pan and replace the filter every other drain and fill. I stick to 40,000 mile drain intervals.

I use Amsoil Signature Series. I noticed that my transmission shifted smoother just after one drain and fill. It might be overkill, but I also replace the O-ring with each drain and fill. I also pull a fluid sample at each interval just to monitor wear and the condition of the transmission.

 

[Adriansolisito]

The first time I did use what I pulled out as a guide to have an idea as a starting point. When you do it fill it until it runs out usually about 3 quarts. Put plug back in but don't tighten. Start engine then go to either your offroad pages to see your guages if you have the 8.4 U-Connect. You can also use the center cluster trans temp too.

Begin shifting through the gears to purge any air out of the valve body and fill the transmission back up with line pressure. Put it in reverse for 5 seconds, drive then M2 then go back to park. Keep watching temp because it needs to be minimum of 86F to check and no more than 124F. Keep performing the above process to help warm up the fluid and purge any air.

I check it around 100F and add fluid until it begins to trickle out of the fill hole. You don't want it pouring out just a slow stream like a faucet just barly turned on. Both times I did it I took right at 6 quarts.

One important note do not tighten filter nuts beyond snug. You want the filter to give a little so it will allow a little movement so you do not cause issues getting fluid into the valve body pick up hole.

Also once you warm up the transmission completely and allow the cooler to open and circulate let cool and do an additional level check just as above that way if level dropped any you be properly filled. Hope this helps.

Do you happened to have part number for the filter and gasket?

also what did you used to run the fluid back into the pan?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Though the diesels have a genuine zf vs the clone….

And yet those with the ZF transmissions made in Germany have been fighting leaks for over 2 years.......... reman transmissions resolve said leaks.
Wonder how I know.......... LOL

I've decided I'll do mine once it hits 40-50 simply because I tow now and then. Otherwise I'd go beyond 50.

Put plug back in but don't tighten. Start engine then go to either your offroad pages to see your guages if you have the 8.4 U-Connect. You can also use the center cluster trans temp too.

You can also stay under the truck with your phone and an app and watch the temp from there, no up and down, back and forth. once you go over the top temperature, you have to try again once cooled. I don't have an easy time getting under and back from under, so that's my process. Have everything I need, phone connected, JSCAN, AlfaOBD or similar running to watch the temperature.

 

[Gladiator85]

Do you happened to have part number for the filter and gasket?

also what did you used to run the fluid back into the pan?

Gasket is reusable with dowel pins to hold in place as long as you don't bend it. Filter I bought off Amazon. Standard quart hand pump works perfect as the fluid is low viscosity and easy to pump in.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

And yet those with the ZF transmissions made in Germany have been fighting leaks for over 2 years.......... reman transmissions resolve said leaks.
Wonder how I know.......... LOL

I've decided I'll do mine once it hits 40-50 simply because I tow now and then. Otherwise I'd go beyond 50.



You can also stay under the truck with your phone and an app and watch the temp from there, no up and down, back and forth. once you go over the top temperature, you have to try again once cooled. I don't have an easy time getting under and back from under, so that's my process. Have everything I need, phone connected, JSCAN, AlfaOBD or similar running to watch the temperature.

You drive a diesel?? Or are you referring to your hybrid?


Anyone running artech skids? trying to get a read on clearance for the B&M pan or PPE pan…. Looks like a PPE will fit fine but the B&M might be pushing it.

 

[Blade1668]

And yet those with the ZF transmissions made in Germany have been fighting leaks for over 2 years.......... reman transmissions resolve said leaks.
Wonder how I know.......... LOL

I've decided I'll do mine once it hits 40-50 simply because I tow now and then. Otherwise I'd go beyond 50.

You might have started me down another rabbit hole, when I did my oil change I noticed slight dampness at front and rear of transmission case.
Well f###, I'll be driving around in the snow probably tomorrow... so pressure washing will be nessasary too. Then I can look it over again.
How much snow have you got Bill? Enough to use the plow.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You might have started me down another rabbit hole, when I did my oil change I noticed slight dampness at front and rear of transmission case.
Well f###, I'll be driving around in the snow probably tomorrow... so pressure washing will be nessasary too. Then I can look it over again.
How much snow have you got Bill? Enough to use the plow.

My wife is sort of upset - NO SNOW here. She said that PA and NY are welcome to send a bunch of theirs our way. She wants at least a foot or more of snow and if it's a green/brown Christmas, she'll be really unhappy.

Sorry about that rabbit hole LOL

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You drive a diesel?? Or are you referring to your hybrid?


Anyone running artech skids? trying to get a read on clearance for the B&M pan or PPE pan…. Looks like a PPE will fit fine but the B&M might be pushing it.

The 4xe - it's the same transmission behind the electric motor and clutch (which replaced the torque converter)
The automatic tranny part is otherwise the same thing. 8P75PH I believe is the model.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

I had reached out to ZF last year asking about a certain ATF I was looking at using, (and no, it was most definitely not AMSOIL), specifically designed to “quiet” automatic tranny whines and noises and they sent me this PDF of “approved” lubricants for the 8/9 speed transmission.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I had reached out to ZF last year asking about a certain ATF I was looking at using, (and no, it was most definitely not AMSOIL), specifically designed to “quiet” automatic tranny whines and noises and they sent me this PDF of “approved” lubricants for the 8/9 speed transmission.

People should note that even ZF is saying it can be over 90,000 miles, so the term "lifetime" isn't that far off. When people think of "lifetime" they get literal. In the automotive world, to many, lifetime still means roughly 100,000 miles.
But no, people get hung up on that word.
150,000 km is roughly 93,000 miles. So, for many, that would be lifetime - meaning "as long as I'll own it".

Right from the horse's mouth:

I also note what's not on that list of approved fluids - no surprise (and no, I'm not looking at or for amsoil but - having dug into oils and ATFs and hypoid lubes for a long time, what's missing and what's there is of no surprise to me at all. But it becomes a religion and people will do or believe whatever. )

 

[Maximus Gladius]

And another thing the horse said is:
“In operating conditions with high temperatures and loads, or
with unknown vehicle use in the past, it can make sense to change the transmission oil at shorter intervals.”

So if one wants to change the oil say ‘every couple of years or even yearly or any time earlier than at the end of life when it’s worn out and Chrysler doesn’t want it’, then so be it. Change it early! ZF says, “…it makes sense”.

ZF doesn’t provide what “higher temps or loads means” and says it makes sense to change the oil, then …do it!

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