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Aftermarket Trailer Brakes?

giskard

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If you can wait the Jeep one should be out by the end of the year....
Has anyone confirmed if the Mopar brake controller will be able to be retrofitted to any JT or will it have to be ordered on the truck from the factory?
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Gladiator Overland

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If I get a Redarc I'm thinking of mounting it next to the trans. shifter, between the t-case shifter and e-brake handle. I think that would be a very nice place to have the control, and you can get to that area easily by simply popping off the bezel around the shifter.

Although, I'm not interested in fooling around with swapping wires in harnesses and all that, so the Redarc is off my list for now. Too many good PNP options are out there with more coming.

So you are disqualifying what is arguably the best brake controller on the market because of a two minute pull out two wires from the adapter harness and reinsert. A monkey can do that swap. All it takes is a small screw driver or a pick to get it out of the harness? Confused look...
 

WXman

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So you are disqualifying what is arguably the best brake controller on the market because of a two minute pull out two wires from the adapter harness and reinsert. A monkey can do that swap. All it takes is a small screw driver or a pick to get it out of the harness? Confused look...
Yep, that's exactly what I'm doing. If it's the best brake controller on the market, why is it that nobody even heard of the brand until one person in this forum bought one, AND, why is it that they're the only one that doesn't have a PNP harness?

It's like somebody said in another brake controller thread, this isn't 1990. It's just based on principle now. These things shouldn't require being MacGyverized to work. And my prior experience has been that changing terminals in these harnesses isn't always simple. In theory it should be, but it doesn't always go that way.
 

PropWash

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NO - get the Jeep harness connector. The Ram connector has two wires flipped and does not work without swapping the wires (or mismatching the wire colors to the brake controller). I'm running the Tekonsha 3014-P harness linked here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QRWR1YI
With a Hopkins agility controller without issue. Anybody telling you the 3014-P harness doesn't work is giving you bad information or did not wire it to the brake controller correctly.
What wires do you need to flip flop? I bought the RAM harness based on another thread and missed this.
 

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Gladiator Overland

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Yep, that's exactly what I'm doing. If it's the best brake controller on the market, why is it that nobody even heard of the brand until one person in this forum bought one, AND, why is it that they're the only one that doesn't have a PNP harness?

It's like somebody said in another brake controller thread, this isn't 1990. It's just based on principle now. These things shouldn't require being MacGyverized to work. And my prior experience has been that changing terminals in these harnesses isn't always simple. In theory it should be, but it doesn't always go that way.

Haha just because a few people on this forum have heard of it doesn’t mean this or that. What matters is those who use these things day in and day out using a vehicle similar as ours have heard of the,. One thing is that his controller is newer to the US market, it made its name in Australia by being the best controller made for touring. Which touring is using a 4x4 to explore Offroad and in the outback. There they pull everything from Campers to boats. This is where it got its feet wet. The issues with the harness are miniscule compared to a normal installation and splicing into a factory harness. Not to mention that this vehicle is so new to the market that it dos take time for these things to come to market. Which I will guarantee that here in the future a specific harness will be made where you don’t need to flip flop the two wires. Again I don’t get discounting the best controller on the market because of an added step that takes less than a minute to complete. Honestly if you have this much of an issue with a project like that. Then perhaps you should not even be installing the unit in the first place. At that point what does it really matter what is done for the installer? Wouldn’t you base something off of Performance at this point anyways. I am at a loss for this logic you have shown here and personally don’t understand it. In the end it is your choice, I have been nothing but honest and helpful about this product sharing all the information I could with you and others. Yet really seems like a very strange thing to make a decision based on this,, if so you are going to have a field day when you further get into the modification of your vehicle as there are plenty of things much more install than this so easy my kids could do it.. good luck I still know what unit I am looking forward too. As I do not see anything in the foreseeable future that will knock it off it perch.
 

Gladiator Overland

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Nevermind i got it
Sorry just now saw this. I haven’t installed it yet myself. Just from what others have said. Could you please share the wire that where needed to be changed over?
 

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Sorry just now saw this. I haven’t installed it yet myself. Just from what others have said. Could you please share the wire that where needed to be changed over?
On the tekonsha 3021-p (Dodge Ram harness) you need to switch the black and blue wires.
 

PackerBacker

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Just another confirmation vote for the Tekonsha P3 being plug and play with the 3014-P wiring harness. I plan to do the bolt and wing nut plan to mount it to the bottom of the kick plate like the video of the JL Wrangler I saw linked on here.
 

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You are correct that the 3014p harness is the right adapter for the vehicle side but it only works with a Tekonsha controller if plug and play is what youre after. For the Redarc controller I used their adapter for the Ram truck as they dont have a Jeep specific one and had to reverse the two wires you mentioned for it to work properly. It was a 2 min fix vs cutting and splicing.
Flip which two wires and which plug? Did you ever do a write up for this?

Thx

BG
 

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If I am only ever going to tow one camper, would it be frugal to just get a cheap controller? I heard once you get the setting where you want it, then you just leave it there forever right? I don't know about this stuff and haven't towed before so that is why I am asking.
 

giskard

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If I am only ever going to tow one camper, would it be frugal to just get a cheap controller? I heard once you get the setting where you want it, then you just leave it there forever right? I don't know about this stuff and haven't towed before so that is why I am asking.
The controller is installed on the truck, not the camper. You can hook any 7 pin compatible trailer to your truck once you have the controller installed. The only thing you might have to adjust between trailers is the amount of brake force the controller tells the trailer to apply as you brake the truck. This typically only takes a few seconds.

Cheaper controllers work fine, but may be fussier about where they're installed (may need to keep the body in line with direction of travel), harder to adjust or trailer brake manually, and not as natural with application of the trailer brakes. Cheaper controllers often use a time delay so they won't adjust to the braking situation (i.e. they will react the same whether you're slowly braking coming up to a stop light or emergency braking to avoid and accident). More expensive controllers typically have sensors to measure exactly what you're trying to do and brake proportionally. Here's a high level explanation of the two:

https://www.etrailer.com/question-86299.html
 

Slapping_Rabbits

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The controller is installed on the truck, not the camper. You can hook any 7 pin compatible trailer to your truck once you have the controller installed. The only thing you might have to adjust between trailers is the amount of brake force the controller tells the trailer to apply as you brake the truck. This typically only takes a few seconds.

Cheaper controllers work fine, but may be fussier about where they're installed (may need to keep the body in line with direction of travel), harder to adjust or trailer brake manually, and not as natural with application of the trailer brakes. Cheaper controllers often use a time delay so they won't adjust to the braking situation (i.e. they will react the same whether you're slowly braking coming up to a stop light or emergency braking to avoid and accident). More expensive controllers typically have sensors to measure exactly what you're trying to do and brake proportionally. Here's a high level explanation of the two:

https://www.etrailer.com/question-86299.html
awesome info! Thank you.
 

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Well, theres not much room under there for me to contort myself to see and even less to mount the control box to. What I did is use 3m VHB double sided tape to mount the control box to the box under the steering wheel with the wires coming out of it in the following pic. If that doesn’t work out long term then I will try to move it to the left inner kick panel as there is room to do so but will require lengthening the wires to the control panel and remote head. Im really trying to avoid doing that though. So far there have been no issues at all, only possible issue I could see is that the tape doesn’t hold but I dont think itll be an issue as VHB works good, sometimes too good..

BB5F4E18-EDE5-45BD-A83C-228310016861.jpeg
Do you have any pictures of what I need to remove to get the 12 Volt charger outlet out? I can get a finger on the top of the connector, but no room to get a hold of it to disconnect.
 
 



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