JT not holding value

[PyrPatriot]

Here's a used Overland I saw just up the road.
https://www.griecofordoffortlauderd...020-Jeep-Gladiator-Overland-1C6HJTFG7LL128476

Hell I am seeing used Sports here for that price

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[vegasdavetv]

I say the numbers are good still, but I wondered that myself.

I'm still trying to wrap my head around why you bought it in the first place and already trading it in for something bigger. Certainly you had to know the size of it when you bought it. Not trying to be a butthead.but that seems to be a bad move on your part buying a new vehicle in the market, dumping a bunch of money into it and then thinking they would give it back to you after a few months of test driving.

 

[Jhoude19]

sounds like you have buyers remorse and just trying to get your full money back. as mentioned doesn't matter if its 2 years or 2 weeks. used is used. you pay 41k what do you expect to get back?... the dealer has to make money as well.. so realistically buying a vehicle for 41k and them giving you 36-38k seems like a great deal to me. dealer is only going to end up making a couple bucks off it. why should they give you any more when they can sell a brand new one for the same price. and any accessories doesn't make a difference. hell id rather buy a bone stock vehicle and modify it myself then buy someone else.

 

[JP1]

Hell I am seeing used Sports here for that price

holychit

 

[bgenlvtex]

It's pretty apparent that this is really not a holding value issue,

Either OP gave a hell of a lot more for his JT than he is allowing to have, or his dealership is staffed by serial rapists.

$41k new and $38k trade? That is more than fair, because (A) the dealership HAS to make money or they will fold , and (B) nobody in their right mind is going to buy a used vehicle for the same price they can buy a new one for.

There is just a whole bunch of nonsensical numbers being promoted here that don't ad up.

Personally if I had option (A) new truck $41k , and option (B) used truck with 8k miles on it and it was 5k less money, I'd still buy the new one, and I think the same is true of most buyers.

 

[Godfadr]

So, I’ve been to a few dealerships with my JT trying to trade it for something bigger. Things changed over the last few months. Sticker was 46900. With max tow and many upgrades from factory, plus a few of my own (lift & wheels). Well they only offered $36-$38k. Only has 8k miles. My concern is do you guys think that these will hold value like the JKs and below. Or keep dropping considerably and crash. I Thought I was going to have good equity because they game me good trade on my jku. But guess I lost that money for not.

If you paid $41K and they are offering only a 10% drop...that is a good deal. Sticker is pretty much irrelevant to what the market will bear...including the sale when they are new.

Another way to look at it is that if they get too close to the price of a new...why would the potential buyer even want it (they would just buy a new one).

I think, so far, the JT value is in line with the other models.

 

[TennesseePA]

My father in-law sold cars for 50 years and dealers are experts at shuffling the numbers to make your deal look good to you. After all is said and done they will evaluate what they have in the used car and refer to it as “real money.” When I traded my JK for my ES350 they had an asking price of $15k on the car that in reality was worth $13k. In an attempt to make the numbers look favorable to me they gave me $32k for my JK. I ran the numbers and only had $32,300 in the JK. I paid a little less that $28k. And had a lift, tires, wheels and a regear. About a week after the trade my Jeep showed up on the Lexus store website asking $32k. The salesman later told me that they ended up getting around $30 for it. The moral of the story is, unless you are on the inside at the dealership you’ll never really know what you paid for your new car and what they paid you for your old one.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

It's pretty apparent that this is really not a holding value issue,

Either OP gave a hell of a lot more for his JT than he is allowing to have, or his dealership is staffed by serial rapists.

$41k new and $38k trade? That is more than fair, because (A) the dealership HAS to make money or they will fold , and (B) nobody in their right mind is going to buy a used vehicle for the same price they can buy a new one for.

There is just a whole bunch of nonsensical numbers being promoted here that don't ad up.

Personally if I had option (A) new truck $41k , and option (B) used truck with 8k miles on it and it was 5k less money, I'd still buy the new one, and I think the same is true of most buyers.

If I could trade my Overland for even 6 or 7K less than what I paid as trade allowance I'd have been all over it.
5K is a no-brainer.

 

[Steppenwolf]

I looked at the RUBIs but I wanted the max tow

Ah, you could've gotten the Max Tow package on the Rubicon trim. I did.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Ah, you could've gotten the Max Tow package on the Rubicon trim. I did.

No, you got the towing package. "MAX TOW" is only available on the Sport level - because of the weights and other things that go with the Rubicon.
Go check the order system or the build tool online - MAX TOW is not available for Rubicon, only the TOW package. MAX TOW also cannot be added to the Overland level.

This shows the Rubicon level choices - missing is MAX TOW.

 

[Steppenwolf]

No, you got the towing package. "MAX TOW" is only available on the Sport level - because of the weights and other things that go with the Rubicon.
Go check the order system or the build tool online - MAX TOW is not available for Rubicon, only the TOW package. MAX TOW also cannot be added to the Overland level.
This shows the Rubicon level choices - missing is MAX TOW.

Just checked my build sheet. You're right. Mine says, 'ABR - Trailer Tow Package.'

The way it was explained to me was, because of the weight, suspension, etc., that comes standard on the Rubicon, the ABR T.T. Package gives you the same Max Tow set-up as you can order on the Sport S.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Just checked my build sheet. You're right. Mine says, 'ABR - Trailer Tow Package.'

The way it was explained to me was, because of the weight, suspension, etc., that comes standard on the Rubicon, the ABR T.T. Package gives you the same Max Tow set-up as you can order on the Sport S.

But not the max tow springs, which are progressive.
The towing and payload are reduced slightly due to the Rubicon weight and other factors -
but "if I had known then what I know now" I likely would have found the extra 3K to go up to Rubicon as it would have all the stuff my Overland has plus more towing and payload. That's why I looked at trading but I was looking at 10K loss on mine and in the end would have needed to come up with about 12-14 total cash to do it.

Well, live and learn.
If I could trade my Overland for a Rubicon and do it for under 10 total : here's my JT Overland plus 7-8 grand, yeah, I'd have told 'em "order me one".

My dealer never even seemed to want to talk about Rubicon.
I asked him later why he never even tried to upsell me at all - his comment was a lame "well, you started looking at the sport" Well duh, yeah, that's what I SAW and I saw the specs - he never said "well for 3 grand more you can go Rubicon and get more of this and that".
I told him he missed out as had he shown us the Rubicon with the same options - but the much higher towing and payload, I'd have been all over it.

 

[arosen1997]

My father in-law sold cars for 50 years and dealers are experts at shuffling the numbers to make your deal look good to you.

Man of that ain't the truth I don't know what is, my dealership tried pulling this in the paperwork after I got my fantastic deal. Unfortunately for them, I'm more stubborn than an ox, and they had to correct what they butchered to bring it back in line with what I agreed to. Helps that the military provides free lawyers who only need a 15 minute meeting to write a nice and scary sounding letter,

 

[BLK HOLE]

I hate all dealers. The entire model is crap.
Remove everything you can from their hands.

Don’t trade anything
Do own financing (give them a chance to beat it)
Order your vehicle
Only pay invoice or under

**nothing else follows** lol

 

[danielspivey]

When you buy/sell/trade no one gives a hoot what you owe on a trade, and if you go to trade that one, no one cares what you owe on it - that's your debt, you can't factor that in and expect things to be or go better.
You paid what's at the top of the paper plus the fees, not what's at the bottom taking your trade, what you owe and all that into account.
If the vehicle was 55K, you had a trade that was worth 15 and you owed 5, that doesn't mean you paid less than 55K - you paid in cash and value so 55 is what you paid.
You have to get past the financing and trade stuff. What they charged you for the vehicle and fees is what you paid.
Not vehicle plus fees minus trade, etc.

also it drives me crazy that people talk about invoice and below invoice pricing... the ONLY way you can compare prices equally is give an out the door price, minus taxes. Taxes vary state to state. Fees vary all over place. Trade in should not even be part of the discussion when talking about price.

It’s all numbers game with dealers. Only thing that matters is out the door minus taxes. Only way you can compare apples to apples with pricing. Trade in is the only thing that adds or takes away from out the door pricing (minus taxes) bottom line and shouldn’t even be discussed when talking about how much you paid for a vehicle.

I hate all dealers. The entire model is crap.
Remove everything you can from their hands.

Don’t trade anything
Do own financing (give them a chance to beat it)
Order your vehicle
Only pay invoice or under

**nothing else follows** lol

I only talk about out-the-door price with dealers, and then specifically ask what portion of that is tax. This is how I price shop to keep it apples to apples .

Trade in only comes up until I get a price I’m satisfied with.

I love slapping down a letter from the tribal government after the fact, and watch my payment drop because of the no sales tax.
The dealers always hate this for some reason even though it doesn’t affect them.

Never let a dealer focus the deal based on a payment. They always win in this scenario.

Also watch out got the bait and switch on financing. I’ve had this happen to me 3 times. Two times they increased the rate. I calculated the difference in the term and told them they had to eat the difference. This actually happened with the gladiator. Another time they held strong on the rate and I walked. Interest rate is another way dealers will make up for cost in the deal.

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