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Rigid LED Back up lighting - use of aux switches possible?

Gatorized

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Could you save the aux switch for something else and accomplish the same thing but hook your extra backup lights to the bed light switch? I’m just thinking you wouldn’t have to run wiring from the front if you tapped into the bed lights.
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Doolin64

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I put a Curt splice harness in back and tied my LED lights to the reverse line in the trailer wiring. I didn't need a relay or any wiring to the front. The lights only come on when it is in reverse.
I need the relay because I want to be able to switch the lights on via the Auxiliary switch if I'm in park and not using reverse. It's come in handy unloading my dirtbike or unhooking the trailer at night.
 

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I need the relay because I want to be able to switch the lights on via the Auxiliary switch if I'm in park and not using reverse. It's come in handy unloading my dirtbike or unhooking the trailer at night.
In all fairness, you could save a LOT of time by just using the reverse lights. Instead of using an aux switch, just out the truck in run (engine off, park brake set) then out it in reverse and boom! Lights.
 
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Doolin64

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I just don't quiet know the difference between a diode or a relay.
A diode allows current flow in one direction only. Prevents backfeeding power where you don't want it.
A relay redirects current flow just like a switch, but instead of actuating it with your finger, it's done electrically.
 
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Here is the harness I have and how Rigid said to wire. Does this help?

I know this is wiring for a 3 position switch. 1-On/2-Off/3-On in Reverse.

I'd like the auxiliary switch to be used for #1 and I'd like #3 to happen when I shift into reverse. Position 2 is not really needed.

Screenshot_20200108-102700_Drive.jpg
Seems to me the Rigid relay and switch should not be needed if you have added the Mopar Auxiliary Switch Bank. Not sure about the 60 Amp relay though, if the max Aux circuit is 40 Amp. Also I’m not sure I’d want red backlights to be on automatically in any front-mount scenario. That can’t be street legal. I’d imagine wiring the main lights to separate 15 Amp Aux switches in the bank, and removing Rigid’s relay and switch.

Where am I wrong? (I’m new to this.)
 
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Doolin64

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You are correct. You do not need any of the relay stuff. I cut it right out of the harness. I'll have more pictures and my write-up in a few days. I have the wiring all done, I just need to decide where/how I'm mounting the lights.

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Doolin64

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Well, here's my write quick write up. This project was pretty easy overall. Just to recap, I had these Rigid LEDs mounted on my F150 that I removed before trading it in. The kit came with a wiring harness that including a relay and 3 way switch that was not needed for the Jeep.

Here's a link to the lights Ih
https://www.rigidindustries.com/sr-q-series-pro-flood-diffused-backup-kit-surface-mount-980023.html

Here's the diode needed to accomplish this project:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007HRO564?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Here's a link to some wire connectors and Tesa tape I also used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07GDDKJ1D?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

https://www.amazon.com/Tesas-Advanced-Harness-51036-Mercedes/dp/B01I2MLN2Q

Before I ran all the wires nice and neat, I ran the harness on the floor next to my truck and tested the wiring.


Here's is how I wired up everything under the hood.

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Doolin64

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I ran the harness through the frame using a metal fish tape (snake).

I used a posi-tap to grab the signal from the reverse light on the trailer harness behind the bumper. (Orange/white wire)

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Doolin64

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Mounting the lights...

I fabbed up my own brackets and spacers using some left over metal stock and hardware in my workshop. This was after I drilled the bumper in a couple of spots (yes couple) and not liked the what it looked.

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Doolin64

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All done. I could have cut the harness down further but I just could the wires and zip tied it up needed to the trailer hight frame behind the rear bumper.

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Wait, so the diode accepts 2 potential positive leads and then sends it to the lights when either or both is on without risking power being back fed?

Other than more protection from the elements under the hood, any reason you chose to mount it there and not in the back by the lights? Seems if you did that, you'ld only need to run 1 wire from aux wire to rear of truck since the reverse tap location was in the rear as well. Any issues with power running from front to back reverse wire, then back to front to diode, then all the way back again to the rear lights? Like some kind of voltage drop or heating up the wire from making 3 trips instead of 1?

Does this also solve the "can bus" problem, that I don't understand? IF SO....

This diode just simplified my life and i raise you a beer emoji! :beer::turkey:
 
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steffen707

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I ran the harness through the frame using a metal fish tape (snake).

I used a posi-tap to grab the signal from the reverse light on the trailer harness behind the bumper. (Orange/white wire)

20200229_182841.jpg


20200229_202202.jpg


20200229_202542.jpg
i think i can figure out where that front hole in the frame is, near one of the body mount bolts i think, but can you give a better photo of where it comes out in the rear of the truck?

Seriously, i've been putting off and putting off tackling my rear backup light install, but with that diode and easy wire running through frame, this became one of the easiest mods. thanks!
 
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Doolin64

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i think i can figure out where that front hole in the frame is, near one of the body mount bolts i think, but can you give a better photo of where it comes out in the rear of the truck?

Seriously, i've been putting off and putting off tackling my rear backup light install, but with that diode and easy wire running through frame, this became one of the easiest mods. thanks!
i think i can figure out where that front hole in the frame is, near one of the body mount bolts i think, but can you give a better photo of where it comes out in the rear of the truck?

Seriously, I've been putting off and putting off tackling my rear backup light install, but with that diode and easy wire running through frame, this became one of the easiest mods. thanks!
This is my first foray into diodes. I can't take credit for the diode. Someone here posted it in their auxiliary light thread and I ordered it immediately on Amazon for the same reason. It seemed too simple.

To answer your first question, this diode does accept two 2 potential positive leads and then sends it to the lights. But from what I gathered, when the diode open up by pressing the Aux 3 button, it blocks out feedback into the reverse wire lead.

I could have really chopped up the harness provided by Rigid, but it was designed to run the length of the truck with wiring under the hood and ending at the rear bumper. The is a long harness consisting of fiver wires (2 pos, 2 Neg and Revese wire) inside a wireloom. It's about 12 ft long overall. Since the harness was long enough and came nicely wrapped from Rigid, I just ran the whole thing from the back of the frame to the front. I'll get you a picture of where it exits at the back of the frame at lunch today.

As far as delays, I have seen zero delays. Press the Aux 3 button and the lights come on instantly. Shift into reverse and the lights come on instantly and shut off as soon as you shift into drive. I haven't tested having the Aux 3 button on then shifting to reverse. My guess is the lights will just stay on, because the diode will be dedicated to taking power from the Aux 3 back to the lights.
 

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The is a long harness consisting of fiver wires (2 pos, 2 Neg and Revese wire) inside a wireloom. It's about 12 ft long overall. Since the harness was long enough and came nicely wrapped from Rigid, I just ran the whole thing from the back of the frame to the front.
Smart. So did you push the fish tape from the front of the frame to the rear, then pull the wires/loom back to the front?
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