Clutch Recall (FCA W12 | 20V-124) For Gladiator Manual Transmiss [overheating clutch pressure plate]

[KAT$JT]

Dealership just picked up my truck today for the recall service. Fingers crossed they don't cause more issues than they fix.

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[KAT$JT]

Dealership just picked up my truck today for the recall service. Fingers crossed they don't cause more issues than they fix.

Got my truck back. It failed and needs the clutch replaced. The truck did not pass the 4th gear clutch drop test and did not stall out the engine as it should have. This is after they bled the lines 5 times, removing 6 ml of fluid each time, then cycling the clutch in and out 50 times. They installed the protective sleeve and gave my truck back to me until the new clutch parts come in. They claim it "should" be safe for me to drive until the parts arrive.

 

[Gatorized]

Got my truck back. It failed and needs the clutch replaced. The truck did not pass the 4th gear clutch drop test and did not stall out the engine as it should have. This is after they bled the lines 5 times, removing 6 ml of fluid each time, then cycling the clutch in and out 50 times. They installed the protective sleeve and gave my truck back to me until the new clutch parts come in. They claim it "should" be safe for me to drive until the parts arrive.

DO you notice any difference in how the clutch feels after the recall?

 

[KAT$JT]

DO you notice any difference in how the clutch feels after the recall?

Since the only change they made so far is bleeding the lines, I didn't notice much. Maybe it feels like the clutch is grabbing quicker and holding stronger at let-off, but that may very well be my imagination as well. I'll report back once the clutch has been replaced.

 

[hawkijon]

I dropped my JTR off yesterday at the dealership for the 1st oil change (7% @ 8200mi) and clutch recall evaluation, which i was told there was some harness relocation and a process of bleeding that takes some time. Up untill this time i havent noticed any slippage, burnt clutch smell, or problems engaging or disenganging gear. They just called and said it safe to drive but all that need to be replaced is a boot which will arrive in about a week. Im curious... what boot would need to be replaced? Boots are typically used to seal components to keep contaminates from getting in and/or product getting out. I'll let yall know if i notice any difference in performance.

p.s. i will note... they gave me a brand new dodge 1500 laramie loaner for commuting that has only 1200 miles on it and by comparisson with my recent "ultimate" mopar lift install, i am very happy with how tight and comfortable my JTR rides... That dodge is possibly the sloppiest handling vehicle ive driven in a while. It tracks worse than my 79 CJ5. Just thought id put that out there. Hope everyones else manuals pass that test.
here is the link to my lift install if anyone is interested what i went with.

 

[cjricci]

Well I took my gladiator to my dealer on May 8th . My truck needs the sleeve and new hose and slave cylinder it is leaking. They need to replace these items first before testing the clutch. It has been three weeks now and still waiting on these initial parts. My service advisor did call last Monday
to let me know of the e-mail from Jeep on this tsb. They didn't plan on so many of the trucks requiring these parts . They said they only planned on 1% of affected vin's. So I'm still waiting to know when I can get my truck back. I will say my dealer is really good as they gave me a new JL Wrangler to use until it's done. Wish I could get better information on the status of the parts.

 

[hawkijon]

I picked mine back up Friday afternoon. They bled the lines and It passed the clutch health test (dumping the clutch at 4000rpm while in 4th gear) but they did have to order a heat insulation boot. They said it was safe to drive for the time being until the part arrived.

 

[RodRecket]

Just thought I'd post up for someone browsing the thread. My JT with the 6spd passed the inspection and clutch has been engaging just fine. Hopefully the rest of you are having similar results or the issue fixed quickly.

 

[JeepCares]

Well I took my gladiator to my dealer on May 8th . My truck needs the sleeve and new hose and slave cylinder it is leaking. They need to replace these items first before testing the clutch. It has been three weeks now and still waiting on these initial parts. My service advisor did call last Monday
to let me know of the e-mail from Jeep on this tsb. They didn't plan on so many of the trucks requiring these parts . They said they only planned on 1% of affected vin's. So I'm still waiting to know when I can get my truck back. I will say my dealer is really good as they gave me a new JL Wrangler to use until it's done. Wish I could get better information on the status of the parts.

We can try and help with the part delay, just send us your VIN and dealer name in a PM.

Kaitlin
Jeep Cares

 

[Mtneerdan]

Half a dozen phone calls with dealer. They have the part, they don't have the part, wait, they do, but no loaner. Wait, we have a loaner, but on such and such date. Make appointment, arrange child care. Receive phone call that appointment has changed rearrange child care. Finally get it all together, leave kids with babysitter. Drive 1.5 hours one way. Check in, get told to wait, two teenage looking kids pull it into a bay, look under the hood occasionally for the next 30 minutes, pull it back out. Get told they don't have the parts. Drive home smelling clutch all the way.

Don't have time for bs. I'm done fooling with them/it. If it burns, it burns. Or when the clutch quits engaging entirely I'll leave it on the side of the road and tell them where it's at.

 

[jimbom]

Half a dozen phone calls with dealer. They have the part, they don't have the part, wait, they do, but no loaner. Wait, we have a loaner, but on such and such date. Make appointment, arrange child care. Receive phone call that appointment has changed rearrange child care. Finally get it all together, leave kids with babysitter. Drive 1.5 hours one way. Check in, get told to wait, two teenage looking kids pull it into a bay, look under the hood occasionally for the next 30 minutes, pull it back out. Get told they don't have the parts. Drive home smelling clutch all the way.

Don't have time for bs. I'm done fooling with them/it. If it burns, it burns. Or when the clutch quits engaging entirely I'll leave it on the side of the road and tell them where it's at.

This is what I dread most and why I'm not rushing to get mine checked. I once spent practically a whole day back and forth to a Ram dealer for a warranty replacement of ... a battery. Just a fricken battery.

Why is it so difficult for these service advisers to coordinate a scheduled appointment for a known problem and the parts needed for it? I mean that's pretty much all their job entails (that and trying to sell us service we don't need.) Why do they care so little that they waste EVERYONE'S time?

 

[hawkijon]

I have a manual JT gladiator with 8400 miles on it and have just passed the clutch health recall test… I have noticed something ever since the day I drove it off the lot, but it only happens when I’ve just started the vehicle and begin to release the clutch in first gear… Once the vehicle begins to roll there is a faint thump/pulse felt in the pedal/floorboard area. It can be heard if you’re listening for it… It’s almost unnoticeable, and it only happens this one time… If I stop the vehicle, get out, and come back minutes later it will not do it, The vehicle must rest for a period of time and it will do it again… Any of y’all felt this? I’m thinking it might be the vacuum brake booster diaphragm??

 

[whiteglad]

The clutch is made by LuK and is dual disc with a center plate that is poorly engineered. If and when the center plate fails, pieces can fly out and cut lines causing the fire. LuK has no fix or re-design for the clutch, but South Bend Clutch does. They have decades of experience in re-engineering and improving factory clutches with better engineering, friction materials, etc. They have a center plate that fixes the problem,, instead of merely shielding from a failing part, which to date is the Jeep fix. They can rebuild and fix your clutch, or buy a new one and re-work it for you.

 

[basicGlad]

I have a manual JT gladiator with 8400 miles on it and have just passed the clutch health recall test… I have noticed something ever since the day I drove it off the lot, but it only happens when I’ve just started the vehicle and begin to release the clutch in first gear… Once the vehicle begins to roll there is a faint thump/pulse felt in the pedal/floorboard area. It can be heard if you’re listening for it… It’s almost unnoticeable, and it only happens this one time… If I stop the vehicle, get out, and come back minutes later it will not do it, The vehicle must rest for a period of time and it will do it again… Any of y’all felt this? I’m thinking it might be the vacuum brake booster diaphragm??

Next time I drive I will tune my ears in and let you know if I noticed the same thing. Are you giving it any revs or just crawling into first no skinny pedal?

Also, my dealership has now done the recall on all their lot vehicles so I booked an appointment for my Gladiator. Also P0480 error code.

 

[hawkijon]

Next time I drive I will tune my ears in and let you know if I noticed the same thing. Are you giving it any revs or just crawling into first no skinny pedal?

Also, my dealership has now done the recall on all their lot vehicles so I booked an appointment for my Gladiator. Also P0480 error code.

I am typically light on the skinny pedal when taking off, reving to between 1000-2000rpm. if i had to explain when to expect it, its usually moments after full release of the clutch and i go from steady minimal throttle to increasing throttle. 3-10mph'ish... This issue isnt a nuisance, just curious if its a me thing or if anyone else feels this. It could just be a normal occurrence when the vehicle is cold. I will note, the hill assist has been deactivated.
Unless you've researched it already. the P0480 error code is a cooling fan fault, and is commonly plug connection or bad sensor.

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