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tbaker

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I used to run Amsoil in my corvettes, but lost my contact, so just used Mobil 1 in them recently.
Thinking about ordering Amsoil 5w30
$16.50 a qt, but Ill only put maybe 5k miles on my JTR a year, so that's not too hateful.
Go to the amsoil webpage and you can sign up for 20 dollars a year or 10 dollars for 6 months and get the oil as cheap as your contact did and it will be delivered to your doorstep when I order I get enough for 2 oil changes
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LiftedrubiconJT

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REDcrabman

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Don’t buy a vehicle built on a Friday or a Monday….Look at build date.
 

Tommyd

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The Oil made a huge difference! I am now waiting to get my new VVL Solenoid and CPS in the mail. Hopefully, this is the final piece of the puzzle.
To have a fix we need to have the root cause. That picture is from my rebuild. I help one or two people a week since I posted that picture. People from around the world. Probably more stock engines than supercharged at this point. They all seem to happen around 20k to 30k.

My best guesses at the moment.

1. The VVL solenoids have no feedback diagnostics. So electrically it may be working, but there is nothing to confirm the oil got shut off when it was supposed to, like a pressure sensor. Having oil pressure at the rocker will cause the rocker to not latch in to high lift mode and the ramp will just beat against the cam

2. Slow phaser or bad cam position. The cams have to be in a position called lockpin when switching to highlift. If they are not in this position the rocker cannot immediately lock into highlift and it rattles around for a couple thousand rpm before locking in, beating up the cam.

3. This is the one I am taking action on right or wrong, and it is just my opinion. The high lift section of the cam and rocker are not roller cam components. It is a metal on metal friction ramp. The quality and viscosity of oil at this type of contact point is crucial. The same goes for the quality of metal and its heat treat. I don't think the cam has a good enuff case hardening. When running 0w-20 it only takes a number of missed highlift lock ins to beat through the heat treat/case hardening. Once there is a Crack in the armor so to speak your on borrowed time. I have stepped up to trying well known robust 5w-30 oils and I may step that viscosity up as I review my run data. I have not gone heavier as I am concerned about the cM phaser operation. My opinion is a good oil will help protect that high lift cam friction interface.

I have about 6000 miles on mine since the repair, and knock on wood it is still doing great. The oil has been changed twice and is looking good and the engine is really quite.
I’ve switched to full synthetic 5w30 as well. Stupid 0w20 water oil is a joke
 

ShadowsPapa

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Don’t buy a vehicle built on a Friday or a Monday….Look at build date.
Ah, that old thing again that was going around in the 1950s (maybe earlier)

Reminds me of the miracle carburetor invention that the government and oil companies secretly made go away.

I've been through a number of auto manufacturing facilities over the years - if they are pissed and angry, doesn't matter what day of the week.

Back to that old myth - it takes more than a day to build your truck, or for that matter, any car. None of them are started on Monday and finished on Monday. In fact, the engine may have been built in mid-May and then shipped to the assembly plant and put in your vehicle on any day of the week - in another month. Frame could have been made on Tuesday, body on Wednesday, and assembled on Thursday and the build date, final completion is shown as Friday. You can't go by the final build date at all. You have no idea when the engine, transmission, frame, dash, or any other part were made - only what they call the final assembly date - which is not technically when it was made, only when it hit that point in the line.
Another take on it -
The complete manufacturing process for a modern car takes more than a single day (though final assembly is amazingly quick), and if a factory has worker performance issues two days a week, that factory is likely to have issues overall.
Studies - There doesn’t seem to be any direct connection between the build quality of the vehicle and which day assembly was completed.

There are so many things wrong with that old wives' tale.
 

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glassjawkid32

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What did they ever say was wrong with your jeep? Did they fix it?
First dealership said they couldn't recreate the problem. Havnt tried again yet because dealerships think it's cool for me to not have a vehicle or communication for days. I'll probably just wait until it gets worse and push for a new engine.
 

LiftedrubiconJT

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First dealership said they couldn't recreate the problem. Havnt tried again yet because dealerships think it's cool for me to not have a vehicle or communication for days. I'll probably just wait until it gets worse and push for a new engine.
Yea the dealerships around me are terrible too and like to give you the run around. Are you just experiencing a tick at idle? Mine has this fluttering sound that is bugging me.
 

DAVECS1

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Yea the dealerships around me are terrible too and like to give you the run around. Are you just experiencing a tick at idle? Mine has this fluttering sound that is bugging me.
Fluttering is vague description, but familiar. There is. Ot much the dealership can do besides reset the adaptive learning and recalibrate the throttle, or possibly replace it. The engine is running fine, the throttle can get twitchy AR over active if you do a fair bit of low speed driving. It unfortunately is how it is designed. The model does not deal with small throttle inputs over time well. If Hou wNt to verify this is what is happening sit in park idling and try to slowly Rev the engine from idle to 3000 rpm in 200 rpm increments. If it keeps falling in rpm even though you have not let off the pedal, or it oscillates up and down, then you throttle model has learned itself into an unstable behavior at small throttle openings. This creates a flutter effect at load.
 

LiftedrubiconJT

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Fluttering is vague description, but familiar. There is. Ot much the dealership can do besides reset the adaptive learning and recalibrate the throttle, or possibly replace it. The engine is running fine, the throttle can get twitchy AR over active if you do a fair bit of low speed driving. It unfortunately is how it is designed. The model does not deal with small throttle inputs over time well. If Hou wNt to verify this is what is happening sit in park idling and try to slowly Rev the engine from idle to 3000 rpm in 200 rpm increments. If it keeps falling in rpm even though you have not let off the pedal, or it oscillates up and down, then you throttle model has learned itself into an unstable behavior at small throttle openings. This creates a flutter effect at load.
Dave is there anyway I can reset the adaptive learning?
 

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Tommyd

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What all did you guys notice Switching to 5w30? Did it run quieter?
It seems a little quieter but I wasnt having any knocking or anything. Piece of mind I guess. I feel they switched to 0w20 for emissions and faster warm up times at the expense of longevity. They don’t care about us getting a lot of miles out of our engines.
 
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DAVECS1

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I am familiar with it. I have not tried the adaptive reset capability, so I cannot say how effective it is. Things like pedal commanders and throttle modifiers can really mess this portion of the control up. If the adaptive get way off by being reset incorrectly or other signal tweaks, it can result in a very erratic throttle. So that is my disclaimer. Jscan seems like a solid product, it would not bother me to try it, but I have many ways to rectify things if they go sideways.
 

shanesibley

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What all did you guys notice Switching to 5w30? Did it run quieter?
Mine is insanely quiet now compared to before. I also used the JSCAN to clean cam phasers a few times after my camshaft swap. It seems to keep getting quieter as time goes on. Im using the Royal Purple 5w-30 with zinc added. That was what was on the shelf at the time, but seems to be doing good for now.
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