is 0W-20 really the right oil ?

[FrankFrqnkFrank]

I’m comfortable with the recommended oil. Interesting to me that FCA (I can’t spell its new name) specifies 5w-20 for the same engine in my 2021 Ram Promaster 3500.

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[AmishMike]

0W-20 scares me. I am old and like heavier oil. I build engines using old tried and true methods and use old standards for them. (Flatheads, nailheads etc.)
My Gladiator has 27K on it using Mobil 1 0W-20. Wife's Outback has 130K on it using Mobil 1 0W-20
The 9 2014-2018 Grand Caravans that we have with 3.6's all run 10W-30 non-synthetic that we change at 5,000 miles. Some have well over 200K on them.
Oil, in general is far superior now than it ever was. Even the cheap recycled stuff is better than almost anything available 10-20 years ago. I try to pick a brand and stick with it, in my mind it keeps the additives the same and happy when adding at intervals.

 

[Marlinvx]

Anyone ever considered that manufacturers don't want their product to last forever? When I was a kid, we had the same washer and dryer my entire life, never did anything to them. Been married for 21 years, on my 4th set now...they fail, and it costs more to repair than to replace.
Maybe the auto manufacturers are shooting for a 100K mile target, putting you right in range of a 5-6 year loan payoff and ready to buy again... I am a bit cynical, but if I were the manufacturer, this is a legit strategy.

 

[NachoRuby]

Anyone ever considered that manufacturers don't want their product to last forever? When I was a kid, we had the same washer and dryer my entire life, never did anything to them. Been married for 21 years, on my 4th set now...they fail, and it costs more to repair than to replace.
Maybe the auto manufacturers are shooting for a 100K mile target, putting you right in range of a 5-6 year loan payoff and ready to buy again... I am a bit cynical, but if I were the manufacturer, this is a legit strategy.

It's not a legit strategy at all, if they want repeat customers. Market pressures and competition mean that customers will buy something else next time. That only works if there's no choice betweens manufacturers. There's too much skin in the game, and too many bragging rights for advertising a long lasting car.

 

[Marlinvx]

It's not a legit strategy at all, if they want repeat customers. Market pressures and competition mean that customers will buy something else next time. That only works if there's no choice betweens manufacturers. There's too much skin in the game, and too many bragging rights for advertising a long lasting car.

I hope you are right.
Meh, there is no bragging about longevity. By the time cars are hitting 100k, manufacturers are already into the next revision of that model, so it doesn't matter. Now its the "new and improved" version. Most of the parts suppliers provide parts to all of the manufacturers. It's a win for all involved to have a short shelf life vehicle.
This is like JD Power listing the gladiator as a good buy, and now it's the worst of the worst. None of it matters. Manufacturers only win if the products have to be replaced regularly.

 

[Oldguy19]

62000 miles still run great. But I am the old guy in the right lane Retirement has a way of slowing you down

 

[alpineovernappa]

It's not a legit strategy at all, if they want repeat customers. Market pressures and competition mean that customers will buy something else next time. That only works if there's no choice betweens manufacturers. There's too much skin in the game, and too many bragging rights for advertising a long lasting car.

Any company that tells you any of the fluids in your vehicle are "lifetime" has predetermined the acceptable life cycle of that vehicle. If you visit junkyards you'll see that life expectance is roughly 20 years for most of today's vehicles. Could they stay on the road longer? Sure, but labor rates and increasingly complex repair procedures due to small engine bays and lightweight materials make that financially challenging after a point. Companies do want their vehicle to become undesirable after a predetermined period of time. Balancing customer satisfaction with a continued revenue stream (IE repeat customers) is the key

 

[dcmdon]

You are questioning the wisdom of all of those people on the internet, sitting back and tossing out opinions based on what some cousin bubba told them or they read somewhere - so it must be true?


Not THAT again, even after other independent research (Edmunds, for example) have proven you wrong?
You also obviously have not read the tech info I've posted on how the EPA allows credits to auto makers who use ESS but can't otherwise make CAFE or emissions?
So if Jeep did what YOU wanted, they'd have to scrap their bricks and stick with Grand Cherokee and Renegade.
(BTW - Edmunds and others have proven that the 7-10% is correct - of course depending on how and where you drive)
But haters hate, and those who don't understand - hate what they don't understand. (and refuse to dig further because once a mind is made up, it's not likely to change)

As far as oil "weights" or viscosity - there's a ton more to it than "the weight" or those numbers. |
As long as you use an oil proven and tested to handle high pressures (psi ratings) and high thermal break-down, not what people say is best because of a name or reputation, but what's tested and proven best, or at least very high in the test outcomes, and change no later than the manufacturer recommends, it'll be fine. If it's not, it's more likely some other issue - as they say "sh!~ happens" and sometimes the cards aren't in your hand, the house wins.

Oil, spark plugs, religion, politics......... things that have equal importance on the internet. So if you like arguing religion or politics, bring up how your oil is the best.

Approaching 200,000 on my car....... the original engine went over 160,000 miles then the previous owners crappy lack of maintenance and abuse, finally wore out the bearings. So I rebuilt a Jeep engine and stuck in it.
It's my 5th vehicle to go over 100,000 miles. One went over 200,000 miles. I listened to my HS auto instructor, my boss in the shops I've worked in, and my college instructors who taught engine design and repair.
Sorry, but I tend to smile, even chuckle, at some of the oil stuff out there.

I have no idea what you are talking about. I don't recall you ever replying to anything I've said about this.

I'd be happy to read whatever you can link to.

If you are saying that ESS does not help CAFE, then my comment is wrong.

If ESS does help CAFE, then my comment is still correct. We are saddled with an ESS system that costs more than it saves for many people. People who are not DIY people are being quoted $800 to replace both batteries. Do you really think it saves that much fuel in the average 4 years they last??

I have nothing against ESS specifically. I leave mine on. It just could have been implemented in a way that isn't so fragile and expensive to service. (Maybe a capacitor rather than a small battery??)

 

[IanNubbit]

Withou my reading the back and forth I’m sure is happening here. 1.) engineers are smarter then someone who questions oil weight for regular vehicle use. 2.) yes, engines are exponentially built with tighter tolerances and manufacturing perfection every year. 3.) the one that matters the most, VVL. Oil does wayyyy more then lubricate engines components. It. Opens valves, it’s ability to hold the same vesocity under immense pressures, rotate VVT phasers and more. 0w20 and even 0w16 for Toyotas is ideal for these requirements when your running an NA engine. In boosted applications you’ll see those 5w40 and 5w30 weights still since they will experience increased temperatures comparatively.

 

[Rahkmalla]

I hope you are right.
Meh, there is no bragging about longevity. By the time cars are hitting 100k, manufacturers are already into the next revision of that model, so it doesn't matter. Now its the "new and improved" version. Most of the parts suppliers provide parts to all of the manufacturers. It's a win for all involved to have a short shelf life vehicle.
This is like JD Power listing the gladiator as a good buy, and now it's the worst of the worst. None of it matters. Manufacturers only win if the products have to be replaced regularly.

Average car on the road in the US is 12.1 years old. If you don't think longevity drives secondary markets, and secondary markets drive resale value, and resale value drives original sales, then I don't know what to tell you.

 

[IanNubbit]

I’m comfortable with the recommended oil. Interesting to me that FCA (I can’t spell its new name) specifies 5w-20 for the same engine in my 2021 Ram Promaster 3500.

Still a pentastar 3.6 but last gen, same as what is in the JKs. Those don’t have VVL and a couple other things changed like cams and lifters and rods and pistons and more. You can tell if you look at them, lots of differences

 

[Hootbro]

20+ years ago when XW-20 weight oils started being spec'd and back spec'd, a decent argument could be made it was all about CAFE to the detriment of the engine. Nowadays, that is way less to almost non existent as both motor oils and engine designs have evolved to make it pretty much a non issue.

That being said, I am on my fourth vehicle with the latest third gen upgrade Pentastar that is in our Gladiators. I have run the occasional 5W-20 and even 5W-30 oil change interval with no issue and oil analysis showing no detriment in using it but I generally stick to the 0W-20 OEM recommendation and oil analysis of that has shown no abnormal wear issues either.

Lastly, all global markets for our Gladiator call out 0W-20 in the owners manual with no recommendation of other oil weight grades.

 

[Jeep-A-Kneez]

Yeah, these types of topics have started wars, so I'll help stir the pot. For the past 25 or so years, I've always used an oil treatment, starting with STP (stay together please), then moving to Lucas. Using this method had served me well, be it a vehicle, farm equipment, gearboxes, motorcycles, etc.

Best advice for ya, start with basic requirements, do your research before venturing beyond.

 

[IanNubbit]

20+ years ago when XW-20 weight oils started being spec'd and back spec'd, a decent argument could be made it was all about CAFE to the detriment of the engine. Nowadays, that is way less to almost non existent as both motor oils and engine designs have evolved to make it pretty much a non issue.

That being said, I am on my third vehicle with the latest third gen upgrade Pentastar that is in our Gladiators. I have run the occasional 5W-20 and even 5W-30 oil change interval with no issue and oil analysis showing no detriment in using it but I generally stick to the 0W-20 OEM recommendation and oil analysis of that has shown no abnormal wear issues either.

Lastly, all global markets for our Gladiator call out 0W-20 in the owners manual with no recommendation of other oil weight grades.

Three vehicles with the current 3.6? 2 grand Cherokees before this?

 

[IanNubbit]

Yeah, these types of topics have started wars, so I'll help stir the pot. For the past 25 or so years, I've always used an oil treatment, starting with STP (stay together please), then moving to Lucas. Using this method had served me well, be it a vehicle, farm equipment, gearboxes, motorcycles, etc.

Best advice for ya, start with basic requirements, do your research before venturing beyond.

The Lucas low vescosity stabilizer greatly improved valve train noise on my Rengade with the 2.4. Need to start using it on my JT

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