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Engine Break In Procedure?

steffen707

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What's the engine break in procedure if you're planning to own long term and not lease for just 2 years? lol
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I found this on the JL forum:

Owner's manual states:

  1. Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable.
  2. While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in.
  3. Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided.
 

WXman

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Also...

JLenginebreakin.jpg
 

RedTRex

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I found this on the JL forum:

Owner's manual states:

  1. Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable.
  2. While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in.
  3. Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided.
300 miles now..... Use to be 1000, No WOT, stay below 5K rpm, and oil change required. Then dropped to 500. Tolerances and lubricants are getting better so I guess this is a good thing.
 

Malarkey21

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Another important thing is do NOT do the first oil change early! Engine oil from the plant has special additive packages to help coat and protect the engine and also aid with break in. Best to drive it until the oil change required light comes on.
 

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Another important thing is do NOT do the first oil change early! Engine oil from the plant has special additive packages to help coat and protect the engine and also aid with break in. Best to drive it until the oil change required light comes on.
after the "breakin" period and going to the first oil change, I plan on swapping it out for full synthetic. I have done this with all my new vehicles and have put 200000 plus on then by doing so, even changing oil and filter every 5000 miles with synthetic. Has anyone else done this on this motor?
 

RedTRex

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Another important thing is do NOT do the first oil change early! Engine oil from the plant has special additive packages to help coat and protect the engine and also aid with break in. Best to drive it until the oil change required light comes on.
Very good point, that is the other thing manufacturers started doing in the last 10 years or so.
 

beelzebot

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after the "breakin" period and going to the first oil change, I plan on swapping it out for full synthetic. I have done this with all my new vehicles and have put 200000 plus on then by doing so, even changing oil and filter every 5000 miles with synthetic. Has anyone else done this on this motor?
I've been doing that on my Pentastar JK and I'm close to 90k miles with no issues for years now. Had an oil pump replaced under warranty early on, but it still had the factory oil at the time.
 

Hootbro

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Another important thing is do NOT do the first oil change early! Engine oil from the plant has special additive packages to help coat and protect the engine and also aid with break in. Best to drive it until the oil change required light comes on.
Debatable that actual special break in oil is installed at the factory. Never seen a general consensus on this claim or factual proof that any special oil other than normal bulk API and whatever manufacturer spec oil is provided to the factory and factory filled. A lot of the oil analysis of factory filled oil and higher molybdenum, zinc and other tradition anti-wear additives present can easily be explained to the assembly lubes used in manufacturing for first startup protection and not necessarily from the bulk factory fill oil itself.

I do agree that the factory fill is suitable to the first scheduled oil change and early replacement is just a placebo affect warm fuzzy feeling situation for most users.
 

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smlobx

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Another important thing is do NOT do the first oil change early! Engine oil from the plant has special additive packages to help coat and protect the engine and also aid with break in. Best to drive it until the oil change required light comes on.

I’m sorry but this is flat out wrong...

The initial oil put in at the factory is the same thing you buy at your local auto parts store.

I built a home for a leading scientist with Ethyl Oil Company. They make the additive packages for most of your major oil companies and he told me that the best brake in procedure for modern engines is to follow the break in procedure in your Manual and change the oil at around 2000 miles after the various metal components have had a chance to mate to each other.

The old myth of running a break in oil (usually a straight weight oil) no longer applies with the improvements in oil composition and better machining.
 

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So I was planning on buying mine in Idaho, then driving it 800 miles back home. How would i go about breaking i the engine properly in that scenario?
 

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Personally I would not go 8 to 10000 miles on the very 1st oil fill. As mentioned there are a lot of metal shavings and particulate in the oil when the engine is new. What I do is change the oil filter at 2500 miles and then do a full oil change at 5000 miles.

I also do not use 0W20 because based on my own oil analysis and decades of experience I have found that 5W30 protects engine components much better and the 0W20 is specified solely for EPA requirements to save the manufacturer money. They don't care what happens to the engine past 60k miles.
 

iammacey

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So I was planning on buying mine in Idaho, then driving it 800 miles back home. How would i go about breaking i the engine properly in that scenario?
I drove mine around 200 miles home. Mostly interstate, which is not ideal for break-in. During break-in it's best to vary revs, engine brake, etc...

So I spent most of the drive in manual mode working through the gears and varying revs since I was maintaining road speed. This allowed a lot of variation in engine speed.

I will change the oil and filter at 3k miles and switch to Motul 8100.
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