Steering Stabilizer/Damper?

[Tortooga Custom Works]

So I'm learning here...
I'm seeing that lots of folks put in steering stabilizers when they go to bigger tires and related components.

Am I using the right term "steering stabilizer" ? or is what I am referring to something else?

I think it's because it helps manage the bigger tires on the road. But does it affect the "feel" of the steering - like loose vs tight?

I'm sort of making reference to the death-wobble, but not really. I've used steering dampers on motorcycles before to control the movement of the front tire. Obviously, that's different because the travel between the handlebars and the actual movement of the wheel is so short.

But, I'm wondering what could have an effect on the "tightness" of the steering wheel... assuming that you wanted to affect it...

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[NORDNDED]

I'm running the teraflex falcon adjustable stabilizer on my JKUR. It has 3 settings on it which do change the feel of the steering. Setting 1 feels pretty close to stock, setting 2 adds a nice firmness to the feel and setting 3 is just too stiff, the wheel is too hesitant to self center after a turn. Setting 2 is where I leave it. The pass through shaft design also eliminates any neutral position freeplay which reduces "play" or "wobble" at the wheel. I'd buy it again, as a matter of fact it reminds me that my wife wants one for her JKUR because she comments how much better my steering feels vs hers, thanks for the Mothers Day idea!!

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...us-ef-2-2-adjustable-stabilizer-1-5-8-tie-rod

 

[Sorbs]

I'm running the teraflex falcon adjustable stabilizer on my JKUR. It has 3 settings on it which do change the feel of the steering. Setting 1 feels pretty close to stock, setting 2 adds a nice firmness to the feel and setting 3 is just too stiff, the wheel is too hesitant to self center after a turn. Setting 2 is where I leave it. The pass through shaft design also eliminates any neutral position freeplay which reduces "play" or "wobble" at the wheel. I'd buy it again, as a matter of fact it reminds me that my wife wants one for her JKUR because she comments how much better my steering feels vs hers, thanks for the Mothers Day idea!!

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...us-ef-2-2-adjustable-stabilizer-1-5-8-tie-rod

I’ve the same one on my JLR and agree. Works great, better than stock and, on windy days driving the interstate, the firm setting makes for a straight path.

 

[Tortooga Custom Works]

I'm running the teraflex falcon adjustable stabilizer on my JKUR. It has 3 settings on it which do change the feel of the steering. Setting 1 feels pretty close to stock, setting 2 adds a nice firmness to the feel and setting 3 is just too stiff, the wheel is too hesitant to self center after a turn. Setting 2 is where I leave it. The pass through shaft design also eliminates any neutral position freeplay which reduces "play" or "wobble" at the wheel. I'd buy it again, as a matter of fact it reminds me that my wife wants one for her JKUR because she comments how much better my steering feels vs hers, thanks for the Mothers Day idea!!

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...us-ef-2-2-adjustable-stabilizer-1-5-8-tie-rod

This is good to know

 

[Tortooga Custom Works]

Let me revive this - squirrely, squishy, wobbly steering. Let's assume nothing is actually wrong...

Where might you start to try and get it "firmer" ? not sure if that's the right word. But not requiring as much input from the driver to remain straight...

 

[NORDNDED]

Let me revive this - squirrely, squishy, wobbly steering. Let's assume nothing is actually wrong...

Where might you start to try and get it "firmer" ? not sure if that's the right word. But not requiring as much input from the driver to remain straight...

#1 - Tire pressure.. Most 35's I've run on JKU's like 28-32 psi although my current KM3's seem to like 34psi. Im assuming the Gladiator will be similar but probably towards the 32 as it is a heavier truck. Even the stock 285's (33") will probably like it at about 34psi. Most dealers will air them to whatever the tire itself states which could be in the 40's. I always forget to tell the counter dude whenever I get mine rotated and balanced to set them all at 30psi. They always put them at 38-40 and I have to air down a few miles down the road because of wandering caused by the contact point of the tire being only in the center of the tread pattern.

#2 - Alignment caster.. After lifting the front end the caster changes for the worse and can cause a wandering, squirrely feeling on the road if not corrected. This can be done properly two ways, control arm drop brackets that lower to connection point at the frame end to put caster back where it should be or new, longer lower control arms to "rotate" the front axle back into its proper position.

#3 - Track Bar and its bushings and fastening hardware. Something as simple as a loose bolt can make all the difference.. Don't go cheap here either when replacing, go with quality parts for the best in terms of longevity.

#4 - Steering linkages. Check all end joints for looseness and also be sure that the geometry of the components are correct. With the JK's, its best to flip the drag link to the top of the knuckle once you go to 3.5" of lift to keep the bump steer to a minimum. Bump steer can get bad if the track bar and drag link are not parallel with each other.

#5 - Ball Joints.. Well, at least on JK's but I'm not certain on the newer JL's. I've had to replace them on both mine and my wife's JK's which both wandered a bit even though everything I listed above was corrected first. The lowers get some play in them and will cause wandering and floating, especially at highway speeds. New Teraflex balljoints completely eliminated my wandering issues..

#6 - Tire condition and balancing. Yeah, its worth mentioning as an out of balance tire or tires can make a difference in the handling characteristics, especially at higher speeds. If you can find someone that can road force balance your tires then that is the absolute best way to go.

#7 - Steering stabilizer. If everything else above is in good shape and within specs, a steering stabilizer is not absolutely necessary but will help dampen road feedback through the wheel. I prefer the tighter feel my adjustable unit gives me and it does help with the wandering also at highway speeds.

 

[Tortooga Custom Works]

#1 - Tire pressure.. Most 35's I've run on JKU's like 28-32 psi although my current KM3's seem to like 34psi. Im assuming the Gladiator will be similar but probably towards the 32 as it is a heavier truck. Even the stock 285's (33") will probably like it at about 34psi. Most dealers will air them to whatever the tire itself states which could be in the 40's. I always forget to tell the counter dude whenever I get mine rotated and balanced to set them all at 30psi. They always put them at 38-40 and I have to air down a few miles down the road because of wandering caused by the contact point of the tire being only in the center of the tread pattern.

#2 - Alignment caster.. After lifting the front end the caster changes for the worse and can cause a wandering, squirrely feeling on the road if not corrected. This can be done properly two ways, control arm drop brackets that lower to connection point at the frame end to put caster back where it should be or new, longer lower control arms to "rotate" the front axle back into its proper position.

#3 - Track Bar and its bushings and fastening hardware. Something as simple as a loose bolt can make all the difference.. Don't go cheap here either when replacing, go with quality parts for the best in terms of longevity.

#4 - Steering linkages. Check all end joints for looseness and also be sure that the geometry of the components are correct. With the JK's, its best to flip the drag link to the top of the knuckle once you go to 3.5" of lift to keep the bump steer to a minimum. Bump steer can get bad if the track bar and drag link are not parallel with each other.

#5 - Ball Joints.. Well, at least on JK's but I'm not certain on the newer JL's. I've had to replace them on both mine and my wife's JK's which both wandered a bit even though everything I listed above was corrected first. The lowers get some play in them and will cause wandering and floating, especially at highway speeds. New Teraflex balljoints completely eliminated my wandering issues..

#6 - Tire condition and balancing. Yeah, its worth mentioning as an out of balance tire or tires can make a difference in the handling characteristics, especially at higher speeds. If you can find someone that can road force balance your tires then that is the absolute best way to go.

#7 - Steering stabilizer. If everything else above is in good shape and within specs, a steering stabilizer is not absolutely necessary but will help dampen road feedback through the wheel. I prefer the tighter feel my adjustable unit gives me and it does help with the wandering also at highway speeds.

This is awesome. Thank you. I’m going to save this. I’m sure some may add some additional stuff, but this is a good start.

 

[trez63]

Awesome thread!

 

[Ole Cowboy]

#7 - Steering stabilizer. If everything else above is in good shape and within specs, a steering stabilizer is not absolutely necessary but will help dampen road feedback through the wheel. I prefer the tighter feel my adjustable unit gives me and it does help with the wandering also at highway speeds.

The SS is an integrated component of the front suspension system and while you may be able to run without on for a limited amount of time as the miles increase the SS begins to play a key role. It is NOT a "Band Aid" as some are inclined to say, its because they fail to understand how suspension works.

If your rig is OR only and you trailer it lot of the guys don't run a SS, granted, little need if your top speed is about 5 mph...

One of the guys I wheeled with on occasion did not run shocks a SS or a sway bar to which he bragged on the forums often and loud. Never saying he had to trailer his Jeep to the trailhead. His Jeep was one of the worst performers on the trail I have ever seen and his career as an off-roader came to a screeching halt when his go to work car was repo'd and he had to drive that Jeep, he flipped on the freeway the first morning going to work with luck he did get killed and only had some minor injuries (due to his 4 point harness) but the Jeep was totaled.

 

[RedTRex]

The SS is an integrated component of the front suspension system and while you may be able to run without on for a limited amount of time as the miles increase the SS begins to play a key role. It is NOT a "Band Aid" as some are inclined to say, its because they fail to understand how suspension works.

If your rig is OR only and you trailer it lot of the guys don't run a SS, granted, little need if your top speed is about 5 mph...

One of the guys I wheeled with on occasion did not run shocks a SS or a sway bar to which he bragged on the forums often and loud. Never saying he had to trailer his Jeep to the trailhead. His Jeep was one of the worst performers on the trail I have ever seen and his career as an off-roader came to a screeching halt when his go to work car was repo'd and he had to drive that Jeep, he flipped on the freeway the first morning going to work with luck he did get killed and only had some minor injuries (due to his 4 point harness) but the Jeep was totaled.

Noting all that, ponder this... if a SS wasn't needed, then why did Jeep engineers put one on?

 

[Ole Cowboy]

Noting all that, ponder this... if a SS wasn't needed, then why did Jeep engineers put one on?

YEP! And many motorcycles...wait till you get DW on a motorcycle at about 70 mph crossing railroad tracks, makes DW sitting inside a Jeep look TAME!

 

[Tortooga Custom Works]

@NORDNDED so the tires are at 41 PSI!!

I'll air down to 35 you think?

 

[Ole Cowboy]

@NORDNDED so the tires are at 41 PSI!!

I'll air down to 35 you think?

Ralphy, read they this thread again and still not sure what you are looking for , trying to solve a problem or just gaining some knowledge?

If it's DW (Death Wobble) its Standard equipment on Jeeps and a lot of other vehicles, motorcycles, and just about anything that has 2 front steering wheels. Even shopping carts get DW. I even got it on my Corvette one time, its a reality, but it is solvable. The reason why it is such a problem is that FEW people understand it and know how to mitigate it. Instead, they make stupid statements. Go to ANY Jeep forum and I have been on ALL of them the most common thing you will hear is that Steering Stabilizers are nothing but "bandaids", that is TOTAL BULL CRAP. Those that brag they don't run a SS, they don't drive their Jeeps, they trailer them because it won't drive on the roads.

And NO lowering tire pressure will fix DW it will only make it worse!

 

[NORDNDED]

The SS is an integrated component of the front suspension system and while you may be able to run without on for a limited amount of time as the miles increase the SS begins to play a key role. It is NOT a "Band Aid" as some are inclined to say, its because they fail to understand how suspension works.

If your rig is OR only and you trailer it lot of the guys don't run a SS, granted, little need if your top speed is about 5 mph...

One of the guys I wheeled with on occasion did not run shocks a SS or a sway bar to which he bragged on the forums often and loud. Never saying he had to trailer his Jeep to the trailhead. His Jeep was one of the worst performers on the trail I have ever seen and his career as an off-roader came to a screeching halt when his go to work car was repo'd and he had to drive that Jeep, he flipped on the freeway the first morning going to work with luck he did get killed and only had some minor injuries (due to his 4 point harness) but the Jeep was totaled.

After owning 23 Early Bronco’s, 13 CJ-TJ’s and 3 JK’s I stand by my statement that if everything else is dialed in, a steering stabilizer is not 100% necessary because at that point it is only dampening road feedback through the wheel. But still, I would never not run one as it does help as other parts wear or become out of spec, or balance etc. which every vehicle does. That is why they are installed from the factory, to “band-aid” the steering for the owner who doesnt rotate or balance regularly, doesn’t maintain even tire pressure, get aligment checks regularly etc. and to compensate for normal wear. Your very first sentence in your reply above is in agreement with this, it plays more of a role as the miles increase and parts wear.

Pretty much everything else you posted in this thread is just stupid statements about how everyone else only makes stupid statements..

 

[Tortooga Custom Works]

Ralphy, read they this thread again and still not sure what you are looking for , trying to solve a problem or just gaining some knowledge?

If it's DW (Death Wobble) its Standard equipment on Jeeps and a lot of other vehicles, motorcycles, and just about anything that has 2 front steering wheels. Even shopping carts get DW. I even got it on my Corvette one time, its a reality, but it is solvable. The reason why it is such a problem is that FEW people understand it and know how to mitigate it. Instead, they make stupid statements. Go to ANY Jeep forum and I have been on ALL of them the most common thing you will hear is that Steering Stabilizers are nothing but "bandaids", that is TOTAL BULL CRAP. Those that brag they don't run a SS, they don't drive their Jeeps, they trailer them because it won't drive on the roads.

And NO lowering tire pressure will fix DW it will only make it worse!

Not death wobble... the truck sort of drifts on its own. I have to correct too much. I’m seeing other posts about airing down also.
I’m going to try that tomorrow.

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