Rustproofing

[Racer5112]

Anyone on here do 'rustproofing' do their truck? I plan on doing the Line-X bed liner, but also plan on keeping this thing for a loooooong time. Here in Iowa, rust is almost inevitable and I hate it with a passion. Curious if anyone is doing anything to protect the rest of the panels.

-Mike

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[JT614]

I'm curious what people are doing too. Ohio DOT's answer to snow is more salt and less plowing.

 

[TheITGuy]

I'm curious what people are doing too. Ohio DOT's answer to snow is more salt and less plowing.

Iowa is the same

 

[TheITGuy]

Anyone on here do 'rustproofing' do their truck? I plan on doing the Line-X bed liner, but also plan on keeping this thing for a loooooong time. Here in Iowa, rust is almost inevitable and I hate it with a passion. Curious if anyone is doing anything to protect the rest of the panels.

-Mike

I had my Ridgeline's undercarriage coated with a corrosion inhibitor when I bought it. It's been through two salty winters, no rust yet.

 

[SleepyJeep]

You know that this has been debunked in pretty much every auto forum and the interwebs... There is no such thing as rust proofing you can do to new cars cuz what comes out of the factory for new cars already has enough processes like electro de-conditioning and chemical baths done to the body and frames to prevent rust for a long time - I am talking less than 20 years but after that it is anyone's guess. I wouldn't do any sort of rust proofing in the new cars... I would rather just focus on getting my truck/car washed every week and taking care of it rather than these gimmicky products.

 

[Moab]

You know that this has been debunked in pretty much every auto forum and the interwebs... There is no such thing as rust proofing you can do to new cars cuz what comes out of the factory for new cars already has enough processes like electro de-conditioning and chemical baths done to the body and frames to prevent rust for a long time - I am talking less than 20 years but after that it is anyone's guess. I wouldn't do any sort of rust proofing in the new cars... I would rather just focus on getting my truck/car washed every week and taking care of it rather than these gimmicky products.

The DOT’s keep putting that dam brine down. My Dads ‘04 F150 has holes in the frame! He doesn’t plow. Just local
Commuting. He’s 80 it only has 45,000 miles on it. Washed it regularly. So I don’t know what’s in the brine in PA but it screwed the Ford up not to mention the roads.
I’m looking into some chemical process spray application that the big rigs use around winter time.
Supposed to help against corrosion during winter months. See what turns up.
Cheers

 

[Hootbro]

Bought the professional applicator kit and just Fluid Film my vehicles every fall. Been doing it for the last 9 years and would say it works out pretty good.

 

[Moab]

Bought the professional applicator kit and just Fluid Film my vehicles every fall. Been doing it for the last 9 years and would say it works out pretty good.

That’s cool! I was just told about that product
from one of my friends who is a mechanic.
He purchased it mainly for his lifts, tire balancer, all his heavy equipment.
I’ll have to ask him if he can shoot my autos. Maybe I’ll make a purchase on that product. Thanks for jogging my memory on that stuff.
Cheers

 

[Hootbro]

That’s cool! I was just told about that product
from one of my friends who is a mechanic.
He purchased it mainly for his lifts, tire balancer, all his heavy equipment.
I’ll have to ask him if he can shoot my autos. Maybe I’ll make a purchase on that product. Thanks for jogging my memory on that stuff.
Cheers

It is good stuff. If in a pinch, you can get away rattle can applying it.

 

[Moab]

Rattle can eh? That would be handy with touch ups. Definitely going this route.
Word of mouth as they say. Thanks Hootbro!

 

[RSK]

Fluid Film or POR15 has worked well for me.

 

[Racer5112]

Bought the professional applicator kit and just Fluid Film my vehicles every fall. Been doing it for the last 9 years and would say it works out pretty good.

I have the Fluid Film kit at home, but haven't tried it yet. I wasn't sure if I should do any other types of coatings prior to using it or not. I just REALLY don't want it to rust, I HATE rust!! I live in Iowa, so we use that crappy brine stuff as well. It hurts my heart seeing all these really expensive trucks and cars out on the roads that are literally only 3-4 yrs old and starting to rust away. If I am buying this new and it hasn't seen any salt/brine yet, I want to do everything I can to keep it from ever seeing a speck of rust somewhere!

-Mike

 

[Hootbro]

I have the Fluid Film kit at home, but haven't tried it yet. I wasn't sure if I should do any other types of coatings prior to using it or not. I just REALLY don't want it to rust, I HATE rust!! I live in Iowa, so we use that crappy brine stuff as well. It hurts my heart seeing all these really expensive trucks and cars out on the roads that are literally only 3-4 yrs old and starting to rust away. If I am buying this new and it hasn't seen any salt/brine yet, I want to do everything I can to keep it from ever seeing a speck of rust somewhere!

-Mike

For the Fluid Film to be the most effective, it needs to be applied to the base surface with no other product already on there. That generally means just a basic under wash spray to remove any road grime and then apply the Fluid Film.

My advice is to apply it in the Fall season or right before expected daily temps drop below 70 degrees. Below 70 degrees, Fluid Film flows like snot. Just be prepared the stuff has a unique smell that some people love or hate but will dissipate over time. Take about a week after application before it stops looking wet and the lanoline film dries to the covered areas. Even though you are spraying the bottom, there is atomized mist that will cover your vehicle top side and will need a exterior wash after application.

Stuff will hold up for the season with normal washing but extended pressure washing of the treated area will shorten the effectiveness of the application. Do the application once a year and it will delay major onset of rust.

 

[Cape taco12]

I don’t believe the entire don’t need to rustproof theory. I would absolutely agree with you, don’t ever add the rubberized coating as when brine inevitably does get under it then will be trapped and accelerate rust. I also agree there is no need for por15 on a new frame or over any type of surface rust. But a spray on oil type is absolutely worth the $$.

Supposedly Woolwax is the same type and manufactur of as fluid film with no smell. You can purchase a spray gun and 4 quarts for $110 on Amazon if you already have a compressor. That should be enough for 4 years of recoats and some time out of your life every fall.

My Tacoma frame was replaced in 2013 and then covered in some sort of cosmoline. when I sold it last month there was hardly any black paint and all the welds and seams were bulging out with thick flaking rust. I wish I had sprayed it down, would have probably saved me a lot of grief. Considering the value of a gladiator and the comparative cost of spraying an oil type protective coat every year, how could you not?

Oil spray can be put on all other parts unlike other coatings. Including suspension components. Picture of 7 year old OME nitrochargers on my old truck. New England roads ate them, but they still felt great.

I

 

[Cape taco12]

As far as new painting already rusted or new untreated steel. I clean to bare steel and used a 2 part marine epoxy primer on all my skid plates and bumpers that needed to be repainted. It held up great but it was also free so it could be cost prohibitive.

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