Evo Manufacturing Lift Kits w/ Kings Shocks

[smoverland]

Evo just posted their kits with Kings Shocks (and prices!). You can check out the available packages here: http://evomfg.com/EVO-MFG-Products/Jeep-Gladiator-JT/Suspension Systems.

While we're on the topic, how do you feel about the progressive springs in the rear but single-rate in the front?

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[Renegade]

Evo just posted their kits with Kings Shocks (and prices!). You can check out the available packages here: http://evomfg.com/EVO-MFG-Products/Jeep-Gladiator-JT/Suspension Systems.

While we're on the topic, how do you feel about the progressive springs in the rear but single-rate in the front?

Maybe the progressive rate spring is needed in the rear to resist more as the payload increases?

 

[smoverland]

Maybe the progressive rate spring is needed in the rear to resist more as the payload increases?

I think you nailed their reasoning. A lot of companies (MetalCloak, AEV, Rock Krawler) typically use progressive front and rear, so I'm curious.

Maybe an email will net an explanation!

 

[kyleking777]

I’ve got the Evo 4.5” Enforcer Overland stage 4 Plus lift with King shocks and I have to say I really wasn’t expecting for it to drive as good as it does. AND ITS ON 40s! I did this lift myself, it really wasn’t all that hard for a weekend warrior like myself. The quality is 2nd to none and everything lined up just as it should. Instructions are well laid out. The second I got it on all 4s I couldn’t wait to take it for a spin. I’ve had CJ’s, a YJ, TJ’s, XJ’s, and JK’s. All with progressively better rides and handling. My JKUR I also built myself and it drove well I felt but was never a great driving vehicle by any means. So my expectations for the gladiator were it would be better, but never great. I was wrong. The longer wheel base really changed the game. Lifting it with this quality lift, I feel really preserved that awesome ride. I will say, with the 40’s, they do tend to want to go with the road sometimes. By that I mean if there are grove a in the road they will tend to follow them, But from my experience that’s just a side effect of larger tires that won’t ever be changed. If anybody has any questions on this install, or need any help. Feel free to shoot me a message.

Also just to cover it because I know I will be asked, I am changing the gears to 4.88s as we speak. However it was actually really not bad at all on the stock 4.10s. I had 37s on my JKUR with 4.10 and this was leaps and bounds better than that. The 8 speed auto made a world of difference there. I’m going to run these 40s on the stock 44s as long as I can. People always say you’re on limited time doing that, and I don’t disagree. But nobody ever knows really what that time frame is, so I’m prepared to figure it out for you guys. So far so good.

I will report back on the 4.88’s and how I feel about them with the 40s

40x13.50x20
4.5” Evo
80” tall on the dot

 

[MotoBrad]

That is exceptionally cool! Thanks for the write up, I've been leaning towards an Evo kit with Kings. Absolutely beautiful.

 

[Sshec152]

I’ve got the Evo 4.5” Enforcer Overland stage 4 Plus lift with King shocks and I have to say I really wasn’t expecting for it to drive as good as it does. AND ITS ON 40s! I did this lift myself, it really wasn’t all that hard for a weekend warrior like myself. The quality is 2nd to none and everything lined up just as it should. Instructions are well laid out. The second I got it on all 4s I couldn’t wait to take it for a spin. I’ve had CJ’s, a YJ, TJ’s, XJ’s, and JK’s. All with progressively better rides and handling. My JKUR I also built myself and it drove well I felt but was never a great driving vehicle by any means. So my expectations for the gladiator were it would be better, but never great. I was wrong. The longer wheel base really changed the game. Lifting it with this quality lift, I feel really preserved that awesome ride. I will say, with the 40’s, they do tend to want to go with the road sometimes. By that I mean if there are grove a in the road they will tend to follow them, But from my experience that’s just a side effect of larger tires that won’t ever be changed. If anybody has any questions on this install, or need any help. Feel free to shoot me a message.

Also just to cover it because I know I will be asked, I am changing the gears to 4.88s as we speak. However it was actually really not bad at all on the stock 4.10s. I had 37s on my JKUR with 4.10 and this was leaps and bounds better than that. The 8 speed auto made a world of difference there. I’m going to run these 40s on the stock 44s as long as I can. People always say you’re on limited time doing that, and I don’t disagree. But nobody ever knows really what that time frame is, so I’m prepared to figure it out for you guys. So far so good.

I will report back on the 4.88’s and how I feel about them with the 40s

40x13.50x20
4.5” Evo
80” tall on the dot

Sheeeessh that’s a bad bish

 

[Desert Outlaw]

I’ve got the Evo 4.5” Enforcer Overland stage 4 Plus lift with King shocks and I have to say I really wasn’t expecting for it to drive as good as it does. AND ITS ON 40s! I did this lift myself, it really wasn’t all that hard for a weekend warrior like myself. The quality is 2nd to none and everything lined up just as it should. Instructions are well laid out. The second I got it on all 4s I couldn’t wait to take it for a spin. I’ve had CJ’s, a YJ, TJ’s, XJ’s, and JK’s. All with progressively better rides and handling. My JKUR I also built myself and it drove well I felt but was never a great driving vehicle by any means. So my expectations for the gladiator were it would be better, but never great. I was wrong. The longer wheel base really changed the game. Lifting it with this quality lift, I feel really preserved that awesome ride. I will say, with the 40’s, they do tend to want to go with the road sometimes. By that I mean if there are grove a in the road they will tend to follow them, But from my experience that’s just a side effect of larger tires that won’t ever be changed. If anybody has any questions on this install, or need any help. Feel free to shoot me a message.

Also just to cover it because I know I will be asked, I am changing the gears to 4.88s as we speak. However it was actually really not bad at all on the stock 4.10s. I had 37s on my JKUR with 4.10 and this was leaps and bounds better than that. The 8 speed auto made a world of difference there. I’m going to run these 40s on the stock 44s as long as I can. People always say you’re on limited time doing that, and I don’t disagree. But nobody ever knows really what that time frame is, so I’m prepared to figure it out for you guys. So far so good.

I will report back on the 4.88’s and how I feel about them with the 40s

40x13.50x20
4.5” Evo
80” tall on the dot

Any updates @kyleking777 on;

• Strength/longetivity of oem axles
• Mileage numbers
• Braking with 40's
• Possible front coil deformity
• King shocks

 

[1 BAD JT]

I’ve got the Evo 4.5” Enforcer Overland stage 4 Plus lift with King shocks and I have to say I really wasn’t expecting for it to drive as good as it does. AND ITS ON 40s! I did this lift myself, it really wasn’t all that hard for a weekend warrior like myself. The quality is 2nd to none and everything lined up just as it should. Instructions are well laid out. The second I got it on all 4s I couldn’t wait to take it for a spin. I’ve had CJ’s, a YJ, TJ’s, XJ’s, and JK’s. All with progressively better rides and handling. My JKUR I also built myself and it drove well I felt but was never a great driving vehicle by any means. So my expectations for the gladiator were it would be better, but never great. I was wrong. The longer wheel base really changed the game. Lifting it with this quality lift, I feel really preserved that awesome ride. I will say, with the 40’s, they do tend to want to go with the road sometimes. By that I mean if there are grove a in the road they will tend to follow them, But from my experience that’s just a side effect of larger tires that won’t ever be changed. If anybody has any questions on this install, or need any help. Feel free to shoot me a message.

Also just to cover it because I know I will be asked, I am changing the gears to 4.88s as we speak. However it was actually really not bad at all on the stock 4.10s. I had 37s on my JKUR with 4.10 and this was leaps and bounds better than that. The 8 speed auto made a world of difference there. I’m going to run these 40s on the stock 44s as long as I can. People always say you’re on limited time doing that, and I don’t disagree. But nobody ever knows really what that time frame is, so I’m prepared to figure it out for you guys. So far so good.

I will report back on the 4.88’s and how I feel about them with the 40s

40x13.50x20
4.5” Evo
80” tall on the dot

Luv the write up, i'm getting ready to pull the trigger on EVO 6.5 on 40's or maybe Rebel? i here good things for both companies, i have a question also, when your on flat ground does it seem level? i cant stand when the front is dipping forward.

 

[Comancheman]

Definitely looking forward to hearing more

 

[AdamH]

PM sent about King mounting points

 

[Dougstdig]

Luv the write up, i'm getting ready to pull the trigger on EVO 6.5 on 40's or maybe Rebel? i here good things for both companies, i have a question also, when your on flat ground does it seem level? i cant stand when the front is dipping forward.

I don’t believe the front is dipping. Vehicles of this kind...especially pickup’s have a rake built in for a purpose. When you add a little payload...what the vehicle is meant for/to do...it’ll level out just fine. Especially if you get 40’s, by the time you get you put any gear in the vehicle it should level out as well. On the other hand, if you’re worried about what it looks like sitting still in a parking lot empty or like the stink-bug look and don’t mind people shaking there heads at you because you have a $70+k vehicle you just took the utility out of... If you’re one of the ladder, just don’t forget to crank the trajectory of the head lights down. You may make your vehicle a target. Some people are of the mind if you don’t adjust the lights you’re just waving the bird at everyone, while blinding everyone in front of the vehicle. They may in-turn decide for you that you don’t need those headlights until you can learn to properly operate them. Sorry. I didn’t mean for this reply to be a rant... I’ll get off my soap box. I guess what I’m really trying to get at here is over the last 70-80+ years designers have engineered in a slight rake for a reason. I may be more sensitive to this as I grew up in TX and now spend most of my time (unfortunately) in FL. I’m constantly reminded of the lack of common sense of the folks modding their vehicles to look like they only can afford to purchase the front half of a lift kit. It’s either this or they licked leaded paint as a kid and are incapable of conjuring up a rational opinion...oops...sorry again...don’t know where all of that came from...lol...yes I feel better now. While I’m this far in... I’ll add that if you level this length of a vehicle and add a payload but haven’t taken into account the added squat don’t complain about how your steering doesn’t have an on center feel. Unless you adjust the front control arms to accommodate the worse geometry you’ve conjured up...well you should be able to figure it out from here....

 

[Phljeeper]

Just posted this same ask in another thread but figured I would ask the same question in this one:

I am struggling with shocks for my EVO 2.5” stage 3 kit. I have had the lift installed and using shock extension brackets with the stock fox shocks. It works but I want proper length shocks. I am stuck between the EVO tuned Kings and Falcon 3.3s. Are the EVO tuned Kings others are running adjustable? Seems like that adds $500 to the price. The adjustability seems like a really nice feature but no idea if it’s really needed or utilized. Thoughts?

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