FL Handle Guy
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2019
- Threads
- 22
- Messages
- 144
- Reaction score
- 302
- Location
- Northwest Florida
- Vehicle(s)
- 2020 Gladiator Rubi
- Thread starter
- #1
When I got the jeep I was frustrated that there was only one 12v cigarette lighter socket and that it did not stay on constantly. I decided to mount a 12v socket but I did not want to drill any holes in the dash or console incase I wanted to remove it later. I am also planning on getting the trailer brake controller if they every release it, so I would lose my lone cigarette plug.
I also noticed that if I tried to charge a device from one of the Uconnect plugs the whole system would have a shit fit and make android auto not work correctly for a day or two. I have headphones and speakers that I leave in the vehicle when I want to charge them so they are charged up and ready to go when I need them.
I have the AUX switch kit from the factory and was able to tap into the 10A constant hot (RED/ WHITE STRIPE) in the footwell wire loom. I found the wire loom taped to the wires running along the firewall in the passenger footwell. It was curled back on itself with a few heat-shrunk ends sticking out. I contemplated using one of the AUX switches but decided I did not need more than 10A and wanted to save those for other projects I have planned.
I then removed the passenger kick panel and found 3 ground locations with 2 of them taken by the factory harness, leaving one left that I could dedicate to the lighter. I ran a fused hot with the grounded wire around the footwell to the center console and hooked it up to an ARB 12v weather tight receptacle I had laying around.
I made a spacer to mount the receptacle to and used a M6 x 40mm hex bolt to mount it to the passenger side of the center console. The spacer was 4 layers of the cheapest lexan I could get from home depot glued together. I then cut it out with a jig saw, sanded it smooth and covered it with a couple coats of plasti-dip. I notched the spacer to allow the wires to be tucked up under the plastic trim pieces along the dash. I placed 2 stips of double sided tape on the back of the spacer between it and the trim but did not pull the plastic off, I wanted to use it as an isolator to prevent any rattling and provide a sturdy non-marring surface.
I cut down two M4 hex bolts to attach the ARB receptacle to the spacer and threaded them into the lexan.
I am using a 5amp fuse in the installed inline fuse under the passenger dash so it will blow before the fuse under the hood and so it could be removed easily if I want to temporally remove it or add another one for the back.
I also noticed that if I tried to charge a device from one of the Uconnect plugs the whole system would have a shit fit and make android auto not work correctly for a day or two. I have headphones and speakers that I leave in the vehicle when I want to charge them so they are charged up and ready to go when I need them.
I have the AUX switch kit from the factory and was able to tap into the 10A constant hot (RED/ WHITE STRIPE) in the footwell wire loom. I found the wire loom taped to the wires running along the firewall in the passenger footwell. It was curled back on itself with a few heat-shrunk ends sticking out. I contemplated using one of the AUX switches but decided I did not need more than 10A and wanted to save those for other projects I have planned.
I then removed the passenger kick panel and found 3 ground locations with 2 of them taken by the factory harness, leaving one left that I could dedicate to the lighter. I ran a fused hot with the grounded wire around the footwell to the center console and hooked it up to an ARB 12v weather tight receptacle I had laying around.
I made a spacer to mount the receptacle to and used a M6 x 40mm hex bolt to mount it to the passenger side of the center console. The spacer was 4 layers of the cheapest lexan I could get from home depot glued together. I then cut it out with a jig saw, sanded it smooth and covered it with a couple coats of plasti-dip. I notched the spacer to allow the wires to be tucked up under the plastic trim pieces along the dash. I placed 2 stips of double sided tape on the back of the spacer between it and the trim but did not pull the plastic off, I wanted to use it as an isolator to prevent any rattling and provide a sturdy non-marring surface.
I cut down two M4 hex bolts to attach the ARB receptacle to the spacer and threaded them into the lexan.
I am using a 5amp fuse in the installed inline fuse under the passenger dash so it will blow before the fuse under the hood and so it could be removed easily if I want to temporally remove it or add another one for the back.
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