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Broken body mount bolts?

KDR83

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Are people having the same issue with body mount bolts snapping due to red loctite like on the JLs when installing their rock sliders?
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Sorbs

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Are people having the same issue with body mount bolts snapping due to red loctite like on the JLs when installing their rock sliders?
You need to heat them with a torch before they’re removed. That’s just how red loctite works.
 

Stacked JT

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Are people having the same issue with body mount bolts snapping due to red loctite like on the JLs when installing their rock sliders?
literally just broke mine today...forward passenger side, but somehow mine was on the install, not removal...dont really know what to do now
 
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KDR83

KDR83

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I've heaed people getting them warrantied by Jeep on the JL side
 

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You need to heat them with a torch before they’re removed. That’s just how red loctite works.
My Ace Slider are due to arrive in a few weeks, plan on installing myself. I have MAP gas torch and butane torch, I suppose I can get a propane torch if needed, but just curious, would the MAP be too hot, I dont want to melt anything connected to bolt while trying to release the red loctite.
 

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Sounds like the threads should be chased to remove all traces of the red loctite from the bolt and nut then apply new loctite or just leave it off altogether when reassembling?
Will an induction heat source work? Can you apply enough heat to the bolt head to loosen the loctite at the nut?
 
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Sorbs

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My Ace Slider are due to arrive in a few weeks, plan on installing myself. I have MAP gas torch and butane torch, I suppose I can get a propane torch if needed, but just curious, would the MAP be too hot, I dont want to melt anything connected to bolt while trying to release the red loctite.
Heat the bolt to 550º to get the loctite to melt.

Here's an article with a video that should help: https://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/how-to-remove-red-threadlocker/
 

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Just finished Rock Hard slider install and knowing people have broken body bolts it was pretty nerve wracking getting them out. I torched them with a butane torch for about a minute or so front and middle and a little longer in the back as those bolts are pretty long. Was able to get them out with a standard ratchet/no breaker bar necessary. Middle one is easy. Front and back were a pain. @jpfreak had the ultimate tip/reminder when you finally get the bolt unscrewed there is a plastic keeper holding it in - takes a little jolt with a pry bar to knock them out of place. Good luck with your install!
 

Zacfrac

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Just finished Rock Hard slider install and knowing people have broken body bolts it was pretty nerve wracking getting them out. I torched them with a butane torch for about a minute or so front and middle and a little longer in the back as those bolts are pretty long. Was able to get them out with a standard ratchet/no breaker bar necessary. Middle one is easy. Front and back were a pain. @jpfreak had the ultimate tip/reminder when you finally get the bolt unscrewed there is a plastic keeper holding it in - takes a little jolt with a pry bar to knock them out of place. Good luck with your install!
I had one that would not come out of that keeper for the life of me, would just spin in place forever.

Ended up using a box wrench to pry down on the bolt while I spun it with an impact (100% did not would not use an impact to break the bolts free/tighten).

Every other keeper let me pop the bolt out just pulling down on it while using a ratchet, but that one just wouldn’t give it up.
 

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So, what is the heat going to do to the fastener and what damage to the JT by the heat up through bolt can occur?
 

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So, what is the heat going to do to the fastener and what damage to the JT by the heat up through bolt can occur?
Heat released the red loctite reducing the risk of breaking the bolt upon removal. The keepers are plastic but we're still functional after I removed the bolts. I did not notice any issues.
 

DMC1

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I believe I would use new bolts especially after red Loctite has been used and heat was used for removal.

I would also chase the bolt holes with the appropriate tap to clean the holes.

Bolt size is M12 x 1.75.

#10 is the rear bolt.

Thanks to Benny for providing the bolt part numbers. Note they are sold individually.

https://parts.allmoparparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-screw-hex-flange-head-lock-6512962aa

https://parts.allmoparparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-cushion-bolt-6508326aa

https://parts.allmoparparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-screw-hex-flange-head-6512897aa

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/attachments/body-bolts-pdf.46619/
 
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JCJeep1

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Just installed my rock sliders - What I found was the two front body mounts used red thread fastener where the middle and back used blue locker - Once removed I cleaned the threads with wire brush and reapplied blue locktite. Bolts went in seamlessly and tightened up nicely. I believe this kept me from having dry thread lock engagement and binding.

Having had multiple jeeps - I was tempted to use anti sieze but the thread locker will provide the same protections.
 

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Just to add to this for future reference, Ace posted a video of their technique. I would add that if/when you encounter significant resistance, turn the bolt back in a little, and take a break from that bolt for a bit. This allows the friction-induced heat to dissipate, and allows the bolt to turn easier when you begin again.
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