Front hitch receiver

[Mkcagle]

Sorry I'm not leaving the back end of the air dam hanging to bounce around secured only by the row of the plastic fasteners at the front. There's a reason Jeep put those metal screws in the rear corner areas of the air dam.
I gave the draw-tite a not that great review on Amazon for this reason and the fact it was a loose fit and you have to use their washers to take up space - a fact they don't spell out in the instructions - you have to look closely for that note in one of the pictures.
I knew there was a fit issue with how loose it was and knew I had to use something to take up the space and it was after figuring it out that I found their note on one of the pictures. I mean it was LOOSE in between the frame horns.
But it really ticked me that they left that air dam just hanging there - with each bump and bounce on the road the rear end bouncing or left to be pulled down by the snow when backing up in deep snow.
If plastic was enough to hold it up, Jeep would have not used that metal plate with screws behind it.

No reason to be sorry, your Jeep, your money do what ever you want to do. My receiver fit tight with no room to insert the washers. I watched a couple of videos where the installers had the same experience. I made my decision and am very happy with it.

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[ShadowsPapa]

No reason to be sorry, your Jeep, your money do what ever you want to do. My receiver fit tight with no room to insert the washers. I watched a couple of videos where the installers had the same experience. I made my decision and am very happy with it.

I can understand that there are tolerances with frames - so they obviously compromise on fit so that it would go between the frame horns on trucks where the space was tighter, otherwise there are possibly some it would not fit. If they had pointed that out clearly and up front - that would have been nice.
To not provide for the air dam left me with "you have got to be kidding - leave it hanging? On a truck?"
I may have saved a few bucks - but not in the end by the time I mess around spending my time figuring out brackets to put that thing up proper. It's a new truck, I'm not going to leave things off or leave anything hanging at this point.
The receiver may be good and solid and well made - but not their papers and the fact they don't allow you to put things back as they were - not good, IMO.
It's new and leaving that off is cobbling to me. It came supported and it's going to be supported again.

 

[Mkcagle]

I can understand that there are tolerances with frames - so they obviously compromise on fit so that it would go between the frame horns on trucks where the space was tighter, otherwise there are possibly some it would not fit. If they had pointed that out clearly and up front - that would have been nice.
To not provide for the air dam left me with "you have got to be kidding - leave it hanging? On a truck?"
I may have saved a few bucks - but not in the end by the time I mess around spending my time figuring out brackets to put that thing up proper. It's a new truck, I'm not going to leave things off or leave anything hanging at this point.
The receiver may be good and solid and well made - but not their papers and the fact they don't allow you to put things back as they were - not good, IMO.
It's new and leaving that off is cobbling to me. It came supported and it's going to be supported again.

OK, moving on.

 

[eaglerugby04]

I can understand that there are tolerances with frames - so they obviously compromise on fit so that it would go between the frame horns on trucks where the space was tighter, otherwise there are possibly some it would not fit. If they had pointed that out clearly and up front - that would have been nice.
To not provide for the air dam left me with "you have got to be kidding - leave it hanging? On a truck?"
I may have saved a few bucks - but not in the end by the time I mess around spending my time figuring out brackets to put that thing up proper. It's a new truck, I'm not going to leave things off or leave anything hanging at this point.
The receiver may be good and solid and well made - but not their papers and the fact they don't allow you to put things back as they were - not good, IMO.
It's new and leaving that off is cobbling to me. It came supported and it's going to be supported again.

Post in here if you find a solution or another brand that will allow this. I really want to put one in, but like you I don't want to compromise anything on the most expensive vehicle I have ever owned.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I have two ideas. I'm thinking of fabricating brackets but have to go out tomorrow and stock up on some things - I'm out of aluminum and my steel stock is down to about nothing, too, I've been making so many things lately.
If I end up fabricating anything, I'll powder coat them
Otherwise I have contacted Curt and asked it I can buy a pair of their brackets. I found their part numbers for the left and right brackets they use to support the rear corners of the air dam.
Depending on what they say, timing and so on, I have figured with the right stock I can make brackets. I can use the air dam's rear backing plate/bracket as a pattern and make brackets.
I agree - taking off brackets and leaving them off isn't something I'm ready to do on the most expensive vehicle I've ever bought.
I have the air dam trimmed to go around the receiver and will smooth that out and perhaps put some trim around it to make it look more finished.

 

[eaglerugby04]

I have two ideas. I'm thinking of fabricating brackets but have to go out tomorrow and stock up on some things - I'm out of aluminum and my steel stock is down to about nothing, too, I've been making so many things lately.
If I end up fabricating anything, I'll powder coat them
Otherwise I have contacted Curt and asked it I can buy a pair of their brackets. I found their part numbers for the left and right brackets they use to support the rear corners of the air dam.
Depending on what they say, timing and so on, I have figured with the right stock I can make brackets. I can use the air dam's rear backing plate/bracket as a pattern and make brackets.
I agree - taking off brackets and leaving them off isn't something I'm ready to do on the most expensive vehicle I've ever bought.
I have the air dam trimmed to go around the receiver and will smooth that out and perhaps put some trim around it to make it look more finished.

So much for the "easy install" they claim this to be. What your looking to do is impressive and way beyond this computer nerd's skill set. Looks like you have a plan. Hopefully they come through with the brackets and update the instructions. Since a winch was a want more than a need I might just let this sit for 6 months or so until the market matures a little bit more.

 

[Mr._Bill]

So much for the "easy install" they claim this to be. What your looking to do is impressive and way beyond this computer nerd's skill set. Looks like you have a plan. Hopefully they come through with the brackets and update the instructions. Since a winch was a want more than a need I might just let this sit for 6 months or so until the market matures a little bit more.

This is a fairly easy install, if you get the Curt front receiver. He went with a different brand, that doesn't include the support brackets for the rear end of the air dam.

 

[Climbhigh]

I've has a front reciever on my last 2 trucks, a traditional hitch bar as pictured in earlier post. I also already have a Warn winch with a cradle for it, and every truck was setup for power (for the winch) front and rear. Since i own a tree service, this setup was pretty valuable for me.

But my preference for the Gladiator is find a steel front bumper with a reciever built into it, not a hitch bar.

Similar to this but without the winch mount plate.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

This is a fairly easy install, if you get the Curt front receiver. He went with a different brand, that doesn't include the support brackets for the rear end of the air dam.

Yup - but unless I had downloaded the install directions and looked VERY closely to the fine print and diagrams in detail - I'd never have known the Curt included those but the Draw-tite did not.
Who knew one came with the brackets and the other did not? They don't advertise that fact.

Now the kicker - about the response I got from Curt - they told me they won't sell me the brackets because they only work with the Curt receiver and I find that to be not true because all they do is bolt to the SAME frame locations as the original air dam support structure, go down/back and to the side a bit to allow using the original nuts and screws.
They are bloody silly brackets - what can be unique about them that they work only with the Curt receiver? The Curt bolts on the same exact holes, the same exact placed. It's just that the front tabs are welded onto the end of the Curt while the Draw-tite they are part of the same end piece, just formed around to the front and not welded on. So there can really be no specific fitment but what I can I say - they refused to sell me the parts giving BS about them only working with their receiver.
Perhaps I should have lied and said "they got lost and I need more".
So - I'll make them. I've made engine hoists, engine stands, made sensor brackets when doing engine swaps, rigged in-tank electric pumps for retrofit EFI - I can make a couple silly brackets.
I'd just rather have paid them for them and saved myself the time.

Executive summary:
either buy the Curt receiver or buy the other and don't support the rear of the air dam - or buy the other and make your own brackets.
Either receiver, since they bolt in the same places, just using different bolt methods, is an EASY install. Mr._Bill is spot-on - the receiver install for EITHER brand - any member could do that part, most do far far more difficult things.
Trimming the air dam isn't hard, how difficult you see it is based on your skill and how PICKY you are LOL. My Dremel with plastic cutting wheel made it fast.

 

[eaglerugby04]

Yup - but unless I had downloaded the install directions and looked VERY closely to the fine print and diagrams in detail - I'd never have known the Curt included those but the Draw-tite did not.
Who knew one came with the brackets and the other did not? They don't advertise that fact.

Now the kicker - about the response I got from Curt - they told me they won't sell me the brackets because they only work with the Curt receiver and I find that to be not true because all they do is bolt to the SAME frame locations as the original air dam support structure, go down/back and to the side a bit to allow using the original nuts and screws.
They are bloody silly brackets - what can be unique about them that they work only with the Curt receiver? The Curt bolts on the same exact holes, the same exact placed. It's just that the front tabs are welded onto the end of the Curt while the Draw-tite they are part of the same end piece, just formed around to the front and not welded on. So there can really be no specific fitment but what I can I say - they refused to sell me the parts giving BS about them only working with their receiver.
Perhaps I should have lied and said "they got lost and I need more".
So - I'll make them. I've made engine hoists, engine stands, made sensor brackets when doing engine swaps, rigged in-tank electric pumps for retrofit EFI - I can make a couple silly brackets.
I'd just rather have paid them for them and saved myself the time.

Executive summary:
either buy the Curt receiver or buy the other and don't support the rear of the air dam - or buy the other and make your own brackets.
Either receiver, since they bolt in the same places, just using different bolt methods, is an EASY install. Mr._Bill is spot-on - the receiver install for EITHER brand - any member could do that part, most do far far more difficult things.
Trimming the air dam isn't hard, how difficult you see it is based on your skill and how PICKY you are LOL. My Dremel with plastic cutting wheel made it fast.

Thanks good to know, I didn't realize you had a different brand. Looks like the Curt one is going to be on my black Friday shopping list then. Really don't want to have to replace my bumper and keep a winch on there permanently.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Thanks good to know, I didn't realize you had a different brand. Looks like the Curt one is going to be on my black Friday shopping list then. Really don't want to have to replace my bumper and keep a winch on there permanently.

If I had to do it again I'd go Curt.
This one is ok - but just ok. It's not really the best installation hardware - and no provisions for the air dam/shield. In fact their cheap "handle nuts" were turning inside the frame today as I was working with things while the Curt uses metal plates and carriage bolts. Must nicer.

I got brackets made and installed but again I was in a hurry, I'm not proud of them.
So, I have more steel and am going to make brackets again when the weather is nicer or I have room in my shop, but have decided to go a different direction as far as where they attache to the frame.
I tried to replicate the stock positioning of the pieces that hold the air dam and in the end, that was dumb. If I had done it this other way I'm thinking of to begin with, I'd be really happy.
At least it's on there now, and solid, and the air dam is pretty solid in place. It would take actually hitting something to cause trouble - but then, I don't clear snow much these days so just leaving the long driveway to get out I could actually damage the air dam and brackets. Frankly, I'll be surprised if I am not replacing that piece of plastic a year from now. They never last around here. That's why I want a metal skid plate up there instead of plastic.

Don't avoid getting a front hitch because if my being extremely picky on things, to the point my friends say I'm a perfectionist - or in one case, anal, you'll be just fine. For me if it's not perfect or better than factory, it's just not good enough.

 

[eaglerugby04]

If I had to do it again I'd go Curt.
This one is ok - but just ok. It's not really the best installation hardware - and no provisions for the air dam/shield. In fact their cheap "handle nuts" were turning inside the frame today as I was working with things while the Curt uses metal plates and carriage bolts. Must nicer.

I got brackets made and installed but again I was in a hurry, I'm not proud of them.
So, I have more steel and am going to make brackets again when the weather is nicer or I have room in my shop, but have decided to go a different direction as far as where they attache to the frame.
I tried to replicate the stock positioning of the pieces that hold the air dam and in the end, that was dumb. If I had done it this other way I'm thinking of to begin with, I'd be really happy.
At least it's on there now, and solid, and the air dam is pretty solid in place. It would take actually hitting something to cause trouble - but then, I don't clear snow much these days so just leaving the long driveway to get out I could actually damage the air dam and brackets. Frankly, I'll be surprised if I am not replacing that piece of plastic a year from now. They never last around here. That's why I want a metal skid plate up there instead of plastic.

Don't avoid getting a front hitch because if my being extremely picky on things, to the point my friends say I'm a perfectionist - or in one case, anal, you'll be just fine. For me if it's not perfect or better than factory, it's just not good enough.

So i just realized I am an idiot. I cawed under my jeep and realized that my "air dam" is actually a metal plate on my rubicon. Looks like without some heavy machinery a front hitch sadly isn't really an option for me.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

So i just realized I am an idiot. I cawed under my jeep and realized that my "air dam" is actually a metal plate on my rubicon. Looks like without some heavy machinery a front hitch sadly isn't really an option for me.

LOL - you are hardly an idiot. You are learning about a new vehicle...... welcome to the club.

It's doable - if it were mine I'd do it.
In fact I STILL want to get a skid plate for mine even though the Rubicon elite suggest it's "only to protect the disconnect" to which I say - uh, no.
I WILL get a skid plate - because there's a lot more up there to protect than that disconnect box up behind the bumper.

 

[eaglerugby04]

LOL - you are hardly an idiot. You are learning about a new vehicle...... welcome to the club.

It's doable - if it were mine I'd do it.
In fact I STILL want to get a skid plate for mine even though the Rubicon elite suggest it's "only to protect the disconnect" to which I say - uh, no.
I WILL get a skid plate - because there's a lot more up there to protect than that disconnect box up behind the bumper.

There is plenty to protect, I feel really comfortable with all the armor mine comes with. I wish they would list on the site that it isn't compatible with the rubicon though. Almost ordered one yesterday. I would say cutting through steel removes the easy install criteria. lol

 

[hawk14414]

Dredging up an old thread to report that it is certainly possible to fit a Curt 31086 front mount hitch receiver on to a JTR. It is not simple, but not overly difficult either. The plates for the rear skid plate mounting hardware need to be removed, as they consume real estate that the body of the hitch needs. In place of them, I have the funky little brackets Curt supplies installed, but I did not bolt the skid plate to them yet. They are merely supplying a touch point for the skid plate. I did have to cut out a substantial "t" shaped section of the skid plate to accommodate the hitch receiver tube. I cut it very close because the flat plate of the hitch provides an additional perch for the skid plate. As of now, the only hardware holding the skid plate on are four of the five original blots along the front edge. As is, it seems and feels really solid, but I will probably add some hardware to tie the rear of the skid plate to Curt's brackets - seems doable, just ran out of time. Also - I have the FCA steel bumper, and there was a bit of interference between the hitch and a couple of tabs on the bumber - ground them down with a dremel to gain clearance.

And - the hitch sits directly in front of the FAD. If that is really all the skip plate is protecting then the skid plate is not really necessary. I spent the time to get it fitted up because I think it also provides a bit of weather protection for the engine bay, which I like given the ridiculous amount of salt products that get thrown around the roads in maine in the winter.

I know - lousy pic, but it's the only one I took at the time.

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