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power inverter location?

Where to mount 1500 watt inverter?

  • in bed with long DC cables

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steffen707

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is it better to mount a power inverter near the battery and then run the AC cable all the way to the bed of the truck, OR
mount the inverter in the bed and have an ultra short AC cable?

i've got some space in my bed drawer design to mount a large 1500 watt inverter in the bed. I doubt I can find the same space under the hood.

What are the disadvantages of running the DC cables to the bed, other than you need really large cables?
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Mr._Bill

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AC current will travel greater distance over smaller wire, that's why it's used to power our homes. If you can find room under the hood, it's better to mount it there and run the AC to a distribution panel in the back. Otherwise, you'll have to run larger cables to where the inverter is mounted.

Another option would be to mount a battery in back to connect the inverter to. A set of cables would need run from the front to charge the battery. Include a smart Isolator, and you won't have to worry about draining the main battery.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Absolutely agree short wires for DC, longer wires for AC meaning keep inverter closer to the battery or a battery.
Tesla had it right,
Edison was a dope.
If Edison had his way NYC would have a power generating station on almost every block.
Less loss, smaller wires, for AC
1500 watts is about 13 amps or so on the AC line - only need 14 gauge wire at best. That's not as much power as a standard 15 amp home outlet can carry with a 15 amp breaker in your home breaker box.
For the 12v side you'd be talking some hefty wires going that far.
 
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steffen707

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AC current will travel greater distance over smaller wire, that's why it's used to power our homes. If you can find room under the hood, it's better to mount it there and run the AC to a distribution panel in the back. Otherwise, you'll have to run larger cables to where the inverter is mounted.

Another option would be to mount a battery in back to connect the inverter to. A set of cables would need run from the front to charge the battery. Include a smart Isolator, and you won't have to worry about draining the main battery.
Wouldn't you still need big ass wires going from starter battery to remote battery via the smart isolator? If you mount the aux battery in the bed?
 

Mr._Bill

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Wouldn't you still need big ass wires going from starter battery to remote battery via the smart isolator? If you mount the aux battery in the bed?
Yes, a bigger wire set is needed, but it gives a little more flexibility, and longer run times. I attached the battery box to the frame behind the right rear wheel.
 

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steffen707

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I'm in need of guidance on the charging of a secondary battery in the bed of the truck and running power from that second battery instead of straight from starter battery.

Lets say i want to run a 3000watt inverter in the bed of the truck but that requires a 4/0 gauge wire run all the way to the starter battery (only using it at 3000watts when the engine is running.

Could I instead install a deep cycle battery or LIFPOH into the truck bed connect that with a 2 guage wire to the main battery via an isolator, and then only have to have a short run of 4/0 wire from the 2nd battery to the inverter?
 

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Yes, a bigger wire set is needed, but it gives a little more flexibility, and longer run times. I attached the battery box to the frame behind the right rear wheel.
photo please, would like to see that set up
 

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I'm in need of guidance on the charging of a secondary battery in the bed of the truck and running power from that second battery instead of straight from starter battery.

Lets say i want to run a 3000watt inverter in the bed of the truck but that requires a 4/0 gauge wire run all the way to the starter battery (only using it at 3000watts when the engine is running.

Could I instead install a deep cycle battery or LIFPOH into the truck bed connect that with a 2 guage wire to the main battery via an isolator, and then only have to have a short run of 4/0 wire from the 2nd battery to the inverter?
This is what you need for an in-bed battery, a battery switch this company has everything you need to get it done it`s really very simple and the run from the battery switch would not be that long. https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/11/Manual_Battery_Switches
 

Mr._Bill

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photo please, would like to see that set up
Here's a couple pictures from installing the battery box. I'm waiting for the warmer weather to come back so I can finish connecting all the wiring that's been run.

20191017_185531.jpg
20191017_190104.jpg
20191017_190238.jpg
20191017_193259.jpg
 

ShadowsPapa

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Here's a couple pictures from installing the battery box. I'm waiting for the warmer weather to come back so I can finish connecting all the wiring that's been run.

20191017_185531.jpg
20191017_190104.jpg
20191017_190238.jpg
20191017_193259.jpg
Stainless?
Are you at all concerned about the fumes generated by discharge and charge? Depending on the battery and battery technology, the amount of discharge, etc............ some steel things in my shop - Rusted in a year.
I built a test bench for testing alternators I restore for the hobby and it's something I have to keep up with - keeping the area where I have the battery clean otherwise things rust from the fumes generated.
 

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steffen707

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Here's a couple pictures from installing the battery box. I'm waiting for the warmer weather to come back so I can finish connecting all the wiring that's been run.

20191017_185531.jpg
20191017_190104.jpg
20191017_190238.jpg
20191017_193259.jpg
damn @Mr._Bill you make some damn nice battery boxes!
EDIT: DAMN @Mr._Bill you PURCHASE some damn nice battery boxes. lol That thing does look sweet though!
 
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Mr._Bill

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Stainless?
Are you at all concerned about the fumes generated by discharge and charge? Depending on the battery and battery technology, the amount of discharge, etc............ some steel things in my shop - Rusted in a year.
I built a test bench for testing alternators I restore for the hobby and it's something I have to keep up with - keeping the area where I have the battery clean otherwise things rust from the fumes generated.
It was the only box I could find that would fit in the space available. It has an open top, so I'm not too worried about fumes. This is the battery I put in it. https://www.samsclub.com/p/duracell...ize-sl34magm/prod3590225?xid=plp_product_1_18
 

Mr._Bill

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WhatExit?

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I wish I could take credit for the box. I just researched and mounted it. I did find it on Amazon for $30 less than the manufacturer sells it for on their own web site. https://smile.amazon.com/SOUTHWEST-...8?keywords=battery+box&qid=1575372389&sr=8-58

I'll get some better daylight pictures when I finish the wiring. Hoping to get some time to work on it this week.
I like this - please tell me/us more about your wiring and electrical components as that is the key to a efficient system
 

ShadowsPapa

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It was the only box I could find that would fit in the space available. It has an open top, so I'm not too worried about fumes. This is the battery I put in it. https://www.samsclub.com/p/duracell...ize-sl34magm/prod3590225?xid=plp_product_1_18
Being an open top is why I asked about the fumes - they rust things - like frame and suspension...........
Charging and discharging a battery puts stuff in the air that will rust that area if not kept washed down or otherwise protected.
RV and boat batteries are typically in "plastic" cases, with covers.

I made my battery testing and charging rack out of wood with several coats of bar top poly to avoid the fumes from charging of batteries and the load testing them eating at metal stuff.
I guess my concern was with a battery back there generating the acid fumes getting to the frame and suspension parts eventually. Rust. Not explosion.
If I get a chance later I'll take some pics showing why I get concerned about such things.
Maybe it's a non-issue - could be in this case it's not a problem.

NICE battery box, by the way.
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