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Factory Trailer Brake Controller releases ...EDIT: STILL WAITING

Oscar Indy

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ShadowsPapa

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It appears from the talk from dealers, mine included, confirmed this AM - "Mid-April" is what my dealer says. Another member got the same word from their dealer.
So - at this point, if anyone is wondering - Jeep says "April". (mine said mid-April)
 

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I had crossed wires when I fist hooked it up and it showed errors on the display. I went in to my dealer, they switch the two wires in the coupler and off I went, no charge by the way. It was only about a week or so after I got my truck. Took em about ten minutes to read the directions and ten to swap wires. My dealer is excellent!
 
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From what I've seen, the controller knob replaces the 12v cigarette lighter socket.
Yes, I concur same spot as the cigarette lighter:
6a0147e367cd09970b022ad3a58b5a200d-800wi.jpg


2020-Jeep-Gladiator-Utility-Brake-Controller.jpg.image.1000.jpg
 
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ShadowsPapa

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Oddly enough, the place the dealer sends trucks to for modifications and brake controllers and such has never seen the type that people HERE have installed! I showed a pic of one of those round type that looks similar to the factory picture of their controller - "never seen one like that, who makes that?"

Here's the rest of their message - rather interesting to say the least - yes, they say they HAVE done Jeep and RAM truck brake controllers -

The factory one that I have used display in the digital display in the dash and show the brake gain and setting when trailer is attached . Have you got ahold of the factory controllers part # and checked to see if you can obtain it elsewhere. The thing is when they install the factory ones I believe some in the Jeep computer has to be set to make it function
 

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ShadowsPapa

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There's another very active thread on this out there - my dealer, and others according to other members, state "mid-April" - that's what my dealer said. Location absolutely is the 12volt outlet location - it replaces that.

@Oscar Indy may wish to see this merged, organized, whatever........
 

jwilson2899

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Oddly enough, the place the dealer sends trucks to for modifications and brake controllers and such has never seen the type that people HERE have installed! I showed a pic of one of those round type that looks similar to the factory picture of their controller - "never seen one like that, who makes that?"

Here's the rest of their message - rather interesting to say the least - yes, they say they HAVE done Jeep and RAM truck brake controllers -

The factory one that I have used display in the digital display in the dash and show the brake gain and setting when trailer is attached . Have you got ahold of the factory controllers part # and checked to see if you can obtain it elsewhere. The thing is when they install the factory ones I believe some in the Jeep computer has to be set to make it function
One thing to note is that most of the ones that show the gain in the dash have a very simple set of controls (usually a level for manually applying the brakes and a +/- to adjust the level) and show the gain in the display because the controller itself isn't show it. The one shown in the Jeep page is like the Redarc where the knob has the gain settings on it. I may ultimately be wrong, but my guess is that it's not integrated like the ones that show in the dash, but rather ends up being something like the Redarc in that it's plug and play.
 

ShadowsPapa

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One thing to note is that most of the ones that show the gain in the dash have a very simple set of controls (usually a level for manually applying the brakes and a +/- to adjust the level) and show the gain in the display because the controller itself isn't show it. The one shown in the Jeep page is like the Redarc where the knob has the gain settings on it. I may ultimately be wrong, but my guess is that it's not integrated like the ones that show in the dash, but rather ends up being something like the Redarc in that it's plug and play.
Well your thoughts make sense........ thanks.
 

jwilson2899

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Well your thoughts make sense........ thanks.
I still reserve the right to be wrong, wouldn't be the first time.

It's also part of the possibility of the delay is a complete different design than what they showed before, but I just don't know how they would do that and integrate it with the dash. The fact that the order books keep saying that smoker's group is unavailable with brake controller leads me to believe they are sticking with that setup, but who knows.
 

eaglerugby04

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I still reserve the right to be wrong, wouldn't be the first time.

It's also part of the possibility of the delay is a complete different design than what they showed before, but I just don't know how they would do that and integrate it with the dash. The fact that the order books keep saying that smoker's group is unavailable with brake controller leads me to believe they are sticking with that setup, but who knows.
At this point with all the delays they could have scrapped 4 different designs and had several different vendors making it. I wouldn't be surprised if the Jeep one ends up being a rebranded Redarc or Curt one.
 

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When it does hit the streets it will probably cost twice the price of the curt or redaric and then everyone will be complaining about the cost. If you bought your truck to tow just buy a controller and be happy. As I have said in the past I have had numerous trucks that did not have an integrated controller (even my 2018 F150) but i knew that going in and installed an aftermarket to tow. Yes factory is nice but it shouldn't be the end of the world for folks. I mean we all waited years for the release of the JT....
 

eaglerugby04

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I'm with @ShadowsPapa in that I never use the 12V outlet for anything these days, so losing it wasn't a big deal. As for the amount of wire, it probably would require lengthening it to move it too far. There was a enough to easily pull the dash out and unplug it, but there wasn't tons past that. If you didn't want to hack up the factory wiring, you could probably use the Quadratec 12V tap they make sinc eit goes in-between the outlet and dash harness, and cut/extend the wires on it to relocate it.

I think we talked about the Switch before, but my oldest has a brick for his he plugs into the 110 outlet on the back of the console, so it hasn't been a problem. You now have me wondering if I could make an extension harness and relocate the 12V outlet to the back of the console for the rear seat passengers. Probably not something high up my priority list. I still haven't tried plugging his Switch into the UBS-C outlets on the back of the console to see if they put out enough power to keep up.
So I took my S10 out to the Jeep yesterday night running the app Ampre and was able to determine that the USB-C ports are not really any good.

I got only around 820mA with a one time peak of 1000 out of the front USB-C port
I got 1310mA out of the console type-A port with a short peak of 1499
I got 1240 out of the front type-A port

I thought maybe the S10 isn't the best way to do this so I also tried my Prius with a 12 volt 45watt adapter using an identical type C cable and got a minimum charge of 2320 with a max of 2720. Needless to say I will be at least relocating that 12volt port based on these tests. Based on what I am seeing I don't even think the type-c ports even support the PD standard let alone something like qualcom quickcharge 3.0
 

eaglerugby04

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One thing I was thinking about the aftermarket controllers are any of them water resistant? I know Jeep does a misting test to validate their components, but I was thinking I could end up in trouble when I get caught with the top off with something aftermarket. Anybody know if the redarc is water resistant by chance?

I haven't even had this truck for a summer yet and have already gotten a drizzle on the inside from some unexpected rain when I was in a store for no more than 10 minutes.
 

jwilson2899

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So I took my S10 out to the Jeep yesterday night running the app Ampre and was able to determine that the USB-C ports are not really any good.

I got only around 820mA with a one time peak of 1000 out of the front USB-C port
I got 1310mA out of the console type-A port with a short peak of 1499
I got 1240 out of the front type-A port

I thought maybe the S10 isn't the best way to do this so I also tried my Prius with a 12 volt 45watt adapter using an identical type C cable and got a minimum charge of 2320 with a max of 2720. Needless to say I will be at least relocating that 12volt port based on these tests. Based on what I am seeing I don't even think the type-c ports even support the PD standard let alone something like qualcom quickcharge 3.0
Interesting testing and results for sure, thanks for looking into that. One question I had was for the rear console port, did you try the set marked USB that will talk to the radio, or the set marked with the charging symbol that does charging only? Just curious, either way those aren't great numbers and I might look into something for road trips.
 

eaglerugby04

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Interesting testing and results for sure, thanks for looking into that. One question I had was for the rear console port, did you try the set marked USB that will talk to the radio, or the set marked with the charging symbol that does charging only? Just curious, either way those aren't great numbers and I might look into something for road trips.
I forgot to test that rear one. I will test that one out tonight when my phone is down to 50%. Also just to rule out the weirdness of some USB-C cables I am going to bring my full 10Gbps cable out and test that as well just to make sure (even though the charging pins don't change). Even though the one I used has charged laptops before.

Either way this really sucks, especially since there is no wireless android auto in this truck and the ports that use it are stuck to charging that is only going to feel slower over time
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