Sponsored

Track Bar bolts

Oscar Indy

Well-Known Member
First Name
Oscar
Joined
Aug 21, 2019
Threads
32
Messages
1,131
Reaction score
1,198
Location
Utah
Website
offmapoverland.com
Vehicle(s)
JTR
I'm swapping out my track bar and want to replace the factory bolts at the same time. Historically on the JK these bolts were all thread and didn't fit the hole well.
Does anyone know what size and length are ideal for the trackbar frame and axle size on these?
If not I'll pull my bolts and head to the hardware store sometime this afternoon.
Sponsored

 

ShadowsPapa

Well-Known Member
First Name
Bill
Joined
Oct 12, 2019
Threads
178
Messages
29,081
Reaction score
34,558
Location
Runnells, Iowa
Vehicle(s)
'22 JTO, '23 JLU, '82 SX4, '73 P. Cardin Javelin
Occupation
Retired auto mechanic, frmr gov't ntwrk security admin
Vehicle Showcase
3
I'm surprised they used what's called "tap bolts" in those locations.
That's the sort that is threaded all the way end to head.
You want machine bolts or cap bolts (the latter having the head shape that has a controlled washer sort of shape to it.
Grade 8 - or in metric terms, class 10.9 which is roughly the equal to the U.S. grade 8
If it wasn't so bloody danged cold and icy and windy, I might go crawl under mine and measure - sorry.


For other folks looking on - lurkers, learners, etc. - the pics below shows some examples of machine screws, cap screws and tap screws.
They are called a screw if they thread into a hole that is threaded, such as in an engine head, etc.
If there is a nut used, the same fastener is referred to as a bolt.
A is a tap screw - threaded all the way. These allow a wider range of use where the items being fastened may vary in thickness - and you don't want to risk bottoming on the unthreaded portion of the screw/bolt. They are often used for clamping items where the thickness doesn't match standard cap screw or machine screw threaded areas. (there are standards for the length of the threads and unthreaded areas)
C is a machine screw - note the hex head it hex top to bottom. If it was screwed up against something flat, the hex corners would contact that something.
B are cap screws - note the sort of washer shape made under the head. These are more precise because when you torque them, the hex corners can't contact or dig in and it's a known surface area contacting the item being clamped.
Most sold in hardware stores are "cap screws" - but not always.

The second pic shows shoulder bolts..... the large shoulder "ledge" is what makes contact, leaving the shoulder itself for something to turn, spin or pivot on. Common use - lawnmower wheels, or bolts holding levers in place, that sort of thing.
Shoulder bolts will have a distinct shoulder with an edge - the shoulder will be larger than the threaded portion of the bolt. For example, a 3/8" thread but a 1/2" shoulder that could be from fractions of an inch to over an inch long at the shoulder.
Examples - the threaded portion is 1/4" and the shoulder is 5/16" or even 3/8" diameter. The shoulder will be larger than the threaded portion.
Because of their typical or types of uses, shoulder bolts will normally not be hardened - most will be grade 5 (3 marks) or grade 2 (no marks on the head).

(taken from hardware store experience - and Machinery's Handbook)

And for lurkers, learners and others - I use nothing less than a grade 8 (10.9 metric) in suspension and steering. Exception may be AUTOMOTIVE tie rod sleeve clamp bolts, but even then I'll often err on the side of stronger.

(all just posting generic info, not implying or suggesting a thing and for those who know all about bolts - move along, nothing to see here, ignore this)


bolts-type.jpg



shoulder-bolts.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
Oscar Indy

Oscar Indy

Well-Known Member
First Name
Oscar
Joined
Aug 21, 2019
Threads
32
Messages
1,131
Reaction score
1,198
Location
Utah
Website
offmapoverland.com
Vehicle(s)
JTR
Well I was going to do my track bar today. Turns out I have the wrong one for this rig.

But I still swapped my bolts for 9/16 "shoulder" bolts. And for those wanting to do it. It's about 10bucks. You need 4 grade 8 washers two 3in bolts and a lock nut or lock washer nut combo. The amount of slop in the factory bolt is disgusting.
 

Factoid

Well-Known Member
First Name
Mark
Joined
Dec 2, 2019
Threads
23
Messages
957
Reaction score
1,814
Location
San Antonio, TX/Mahopac, NY
Vehicle(s)
2020 Gladiator 2019 Porsche Cayenne 1964 Corvette
Occupation
Performance Coach
That is very interesting about the slop. I’m going to check mine when I pick up my truck Monday. For what it is worth, I use Mcmaster Carr (www.mcmaster.com) for all critical hardware and other parts. You will normally have the parts in a couple days, sometimes the next day depending on where you live.
 
OP
OP
Oscar Indy

Oscar Indy

Well-Known Member
First Name
Oscar
Joined
Aug 21, 2019
Threads
32
Messages
1,131
Reaction score
1,198
Location
Utah
Website
offmapoverland.com
Vehicle(s)
JTR
That is very interesting about the slop. I’m going to check mine when I pick up my truck Monday. For what it is worth, I use Mcmaster Carr (www.mcmaster.com) for all critical hardware and other parts. You will normally have the parts in a couple days, sometimes the next day depending on where you live.
I've got a tractor supply just down the road. I get most my non specialty hardware there as they sell by weight.
 

Sponsored

RiverMtnBeach

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2020
Threads
16
Messages
182
Reaction score
142
Location
Long Beach, CA
Vehicle(s)
2020 Gladiator Sport S MaxTow
Does anyone know what size and length are ideal for the trackbar frame and axle size on these?
If not I'll pull my bolts and head to the hardware store sometime this afternoon.
Careful about buying Grade 8 bolts from any place other than automotive supply. Last time I bought an allegedly Grade 8 replacement bolt for my trailer from Home Depot it snapped while torqueing it to only 85ft/lbs!
 

ShadowsPapa

Well-Known Member
First Name
Bill
Joined
Oct 12, 2019
Threads
178
Messages
29,081
Reaction score
34,558
Location
Runnells, Iowa
Vehicle(s)
'22 JTO, '23 JLU, '82 SX4, '73 P. Cardin Javelin
Occupation
Retired auto mechanic, frmr gov't ntwrk security admin
Vehicle Showcase
3
Careful about buying Grade 8 bolts from any place other than automotive supply. Last time I bought an allegedly Grade 8 replacement bolt for my trailer from Home Depot it snapped while torqueing it to only 85ft/lbs!
Any REAL hardware store will have valid grade 8 bolts. You got something else - unless it was clearly marked with the 5 hash marks (and have you had your torque wrench calibrated recently? Those must be calibrated and cleaned now and then otherwise they'll often be off - mine have been off to the tune of tightening too much before clicking)
Also - what SIZE was the bolt? Even grade 8 5/16" in diameter will only take so much. You didn't specify the diameter. Max torque on a course thread 1/2" bolt is only 80 pound/feet so if it was half inch you were going over recommended torque anyway.

I've run harware store grade 8 bolts in performance car suspension and steering, zero issues over the years. I've got hardware store grade 8 bolts holding the spindles and brakes on my Javelin.
 

RiverMtnBeach

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2020
Threads
16
Messages
182
Reaction score
142
Location
Long Beach, CA
Vehicle(s)
2020 Gladiator Sport S MaxTow
Any REAL hardware store will have valid grade 8 bolts. You got something else - unless it was clearly marked with the 5 hash marks (and have you had your torque wrench calibrated recently? Those must be calibrated and cleaned now and then otherwise they'll often be off - mine have been off to the tune of tightening too much before clicking)
Also - what SIZE was the bolt? Even grade 8 5/16" in diameter will only take so much. You didn't specify the diameter. Max torque on a course thread 1/2" bolt is only 80 pound/feet so if it was half inch you were going over recommended torque anyway.

I've run harware store grade 8 bolts in performance car suspension and steering, zero issues over the years. I've got hardware store grade 8 bolts holding the spindles and brakes on my Javelin.
Not a shot toward you, just a word of caution toward those reading the forums. They may not know what a *real* hardware store is. That’s all. Automotive seem to know better and don’t want to be sued. General hardware retail tend to blame the consumer as “misusing” their products meant for general construction.
 

ShadowsPapa

Well-Known Member
First Name
Bill
Joined
Oct 12, 2019
Threads
178
Messages
29,081
Reaction score
34,558
Location
Runnells, Iowa
Vehicle(s)
'22 JTO, '23 JLU, '82 SX4, '73 P. Cardin Javelin
Occupation
Retired auto mechanic, frmr gov't ntwrk security admin
Vehicle Showcase
3
I bought many of the grade 8 bolts I used from Theisen's. They are a Farm/Ranch/Home retailer.
I buy others at Lowe's and a big hardware store in East Des Moines. Automotive stores seldom carry bolts in any sort of selection other than some basic sizes. Bolts just aren't their thing.

The bolts holding the spindle to the steering knuckle and the brake caliper bracket here came from Theisens. And the car gets raced. (I did a disk brake conversion on it a couple of years back)
This is mock-up, yes, I spun the bolts around so the heads were outboard instead of the nuts at the spindle - gave better rotor clearance. Also used grade 8 flanged nuts from Theisens. They are akin to Fleet Farm, etc.

Jeep Gladiator Track Bar bolts 73-parts-6.JPG
 

CerOf

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2021
Threads
18
Messages
1,377
Reaction score
1,611
Location
Dallas
Vehicle(s)
‘21 JTRD
I remember replacing my JK’s track bar bolts with 9/16x3. It was an issue with the hole getting wallowed out when your track bar bushing was worn and allowed movement/play. = death wobble
 

Sponsored

ShadowsPapa

Well-Known Member
First Name
Bill
Joined
Oct 12, 2019
Threads
178
Messages
29,081
Reaction score
34,558
Location
Runnells, Iowa
Vehicle(s)
'22 JTO, '23 JLU, '82 SX4, '73 P. Cardin Javelin
Occupation
Retired auto mechanic, frmr gov't ntwrk security admin
Vehicle Showcase
3
I remember replacing my JK’s track bar bolts with 9/16x3. It was an issue with the hole getting wallowed out when your track bar bushing was worn and allowed movement/play. = death wobble
It seems worth checking for "service torque" when doing other service under there. Periodic inspections, etc.
 

CerOf

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2021
Threads
18
Messages
1,377
Reaction score
1,611
Location
Dallas
Vehicle(s)
‘21 JTRD
It seems worth checking for "service torque" when doing other service under there. Periodic inspections, etc.
For sure!!

I used to subscribe to the “bubba-tight” method, but my jk’s death wobble led me to buy a torque wrench.
Sponsored

 
 



Top