Better instructions for Class IV hitch install

[Racer_X]

Has anyone done an install of the factory Class IV hitch? I frankly didn't understand that the "class II hitch" was a drill-a-hole-in-the-bumper solution until it showed up w/o a receiver. So I bought the class IV hitch when I realized my error.

I've been building Legos for 40 years, so I understand lego-style instructions. However, the included instructions for installing the hitch are awful. Anyone have anything better they can point me to?

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[Gatorized]

Did you check etrailer.com to see if they have video instructions?

 

[Sespe]

I bought the draw-tite hitch instead from etrailer and installed it yesterday. The draw-tite hitch had simple instructions, but I still managed to mess it up. There are only 4 bolts that need to be removed. 2 more are added with the new hitch.

But after removing the 4 bolts I thought the entire original hitch had to be removed. That holds the entire rear bumper on. After taking it all apart, we figured out the new hitch sits inside the rails of the original hitch. Put it all back together, put the new hitch on after fishing the bolts with the included fish wire.

IF you follow the instructions, it is an amazingly easy install and truly takes only 30 minutes. If you don't follow the instructions, your friends laugh at you (but still help you put it back together). It does take 2-3 people to install, just to hold it in place until the bolts are started.

That was the instructions for the draw-tite hitch, I'm assuming the mopar install is the same. The instructions for the draw-tite hitch are on the etrailer site.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I bought the draw-tite hitch instead from etrailer and installed it yesterday. The draw-tite hitch had simple instructions, but I still managed to mess it up. There are only 4 bolts that need to be removed. 2 more are added with the new hitch.

But after removing the 4 bolts I thought the entire original hitch had to be removed. That holds the entire rear bumper on. After taking it all apart, we figured out the new hitch sits inside the rails of the original hitch. Put it all back together, put the new hitch on after fishing the bolts with the included fish wire.

IF you follow the instructions, it is an amazingly easy install and truly takes only 30 minutes. If you don't follow the instructions, your friends laugh at you (but still help you put it back together). It does take 2-3 people to install, just to hold it in place until the bolts are started.

That was the instructions for the draw-tite hitch, I'm assuming the mopar install is the same. The instructions for the draw-tite hitch are on the etrailer site.

If I follow the instructions, my friends (both of them) laugh at me. If I don't follow the instructions, they figure I'm not sick.

 

[Racer_X]

Thanks for the idea on videos - I'll poke around for them.

 

[Hootbro]

 

[Racer_X]

Or I can just wait until someone posts it. Thanks @Hootbro !

 

[Racer_X]

For reference if anyone does this to a Rubicon or current build Gladiator:
0.0 Remove spare tire. You'll need the extra room to work and get at the bolts. Do this FIRST. Remove the jack first, then the tool kit, then RTFM on how to remove the spare. The connecting rods go in at an ANGLE - look for the white funnel.
0.1 You'll need: Screwdriver for license plate removal, 15 MM sockets, 16MM sockets, 18MM sockets, 21MM sockets, TORX bits from the tool kit. Regular sockets and deep sockets recommended.
0.2 Right angle drill/impact highly recommended, and 2 helpers for holding the bars/bumpers at the right times.
0.3 If Rubicon/lifted, you won't need to jack up the truck. MAN that was convenient.

Bumper removal:
There are two torx screws connecting the bumper to the reinforcing bar you are replacing with the class IV hitch+receiver. These will need to be removed. If you can (I couldn't, open to suggestions), remove the inserts in the reinforcing bar to install them in the class IV hitch.

Reinforcing bar removal:
For a Rubicon, there are three bolts on either side as the video discusses - these are connected to the side protectors on the rear bumper. There is also an 18mm bolt on either side of the bar holding it to the frame (2 bolts total). Not load bearing. Does have locktite, but moved easily with 24" breaker bar. These bolts should be reused, unlike the others. NOTE: some of the bolts took a 15mm socket, not 16mm.

Reinstall of wiring:
The pins don't all line up on the Class IV from the original - some holes just aren't there. Just be aware, no biggie as the wires are out of the way anyway. When reinstalling the bumper, make sure the wires aren't pinched anyplace.

 

[Rwalk31]

For reference if anyone does this to a Rubicon or current build Gladiator:
0.0 Remove spare tire. You'll need the extra room to work and get at the bolts. Do this FIRST. Remove the jack first, then the tool kit, then RTFM on how to remove the spare. The connecting rods go in at an ANGLE - look for the white funnel.
0.1 You'll need: Screwdriver for license plate removal, 15 MM sockets, 16MM sockets, 18MM sockets, 21MM sockets, TORX bits from the tool kit. Regular sockets and deep sockets recommended.
0.2 Right angle drill/impact highly recommended, and 2 helpers for holding the bars/bumpers at the right times.
0.3 If Rubicon/lifted, you won't need to jack up the truck. MAN that was convenient.

Bumper removal:
There are two torx screws connecting the bumper to the reinforcing bar you are replacing with the class IV hitch+receiver. These will need to be removed. If you can (I couldn't, open to suggestions), remove the inserts in the reinforcing bar to install them in the class IV hitch.

Reinforcing bar removal:
For a Rubicon, there are three bolts on either side as the video discusses - these are connected to the side protectors on the rear bumper. There is also an 18mm bolt on either side of the bar holding it to the frame (2 bolts total). Not load bearing. Does have locktite, but moved easily with 24" breaker bar. These bolts should be reused, unlike the others. NOTE: some of the bolts took a 15mm socket, not 16mm.

Reinstall of wiring:
The pins don't all line up on the Class IV from the original - some holes just aren't there. Just be aware, no biggie as the wires are out of the way anyway. When reinstalling the bumper, make sure the wires aren't pinched anyplace.

hey, just curious as to how difficult this was? Dealer wants like $350 to install. Maybe 1-10 scale. Thanks!

 

[Sespe]

That might be another vote for the Draw-tite, then. It literally (if you do it right) is take out 4 bolts, add 2 and tighten all 6. Did not even remove the spare.

https://www.etrailer.com/instructions.aspx?pn=DR64FR

 

[Racer_X]

Sorry - haven't been on in a while. Once prepared, figure about 2-3 hours. My helpers were my wife and a 16 year old son. I'd easily do it again with this primer. the longest parts were grabbing the right angle drill and the correct sockets as the video was different.

 

[Wvyou]

Similar experience to Racer-x. Installed this hitch on about 3 hours. Definitely an better option than a $300 dealer install.

https://parts.moparonlineparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-trailer-hitch-68334750aa

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Awe, hitches are simple - this guy did it in minutes just with the stuff he had on hand........

 

[Racer_X]

<shudder>

Awe, hitches are simple - this guy did it in minutes just with the stuff he had on hand........

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