LostWoods
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I'm pretty used to not having my rear-view mirror because of a rack on my last truck and with a cap coming for the Gladiator, I'll continue to not use one. Beneath the standard mirror (i.e. not the adaptive cruise camera unit version) is a screw holding in the retainer that is M4x0.7 and I decided to put it to use. Just documenting this here in case anyone else was interested in something similar.
I bought all my hardware from McMaster-Carr and had the RAM ball on hand but you can use whatever you want as long as you get down to that M4 hole. I strongly suggest hex-shaped adapters so you can torque it down more easily.
A few observations:
(1) Remove the mirror by gripping it firmly and rotating it 90 degrees counter-clockwise (to the left while sitting in the driver seat). You should feel it overcome the retainer clip and it will drop down.
(2) Up inside you'll see a small T15 torx screw holding in the retainer clip. Remove the screw and retainer (it will hold itself in place but pulls out easily) and clean out the hole.
(3) install the washer and thread adapter using loctite and torque appropriately. It's a 1/2" socket if you use the part above but a 13mm works all the same. I did it by feel with a mini 3/8" ratchet but be careful as the M4 threads will strip relatively easily if doing this with a wrench or larger ratchet.
(4) Install RAM ball using an installed arm to torque it down.
And that's it. The hole in the panel allows easy installation of B size arms and there's sufficient space for cables and the like if you're running a radio head unit or something like me.
I bought all my hardware from McMaster-Carr and had the RAM ball on hand but you can use whatever you want as long as you get down to that M4 hole. I strongly suggest hex-shaped adapters so you can torque it down more easily.
A few observations:
- I'm using blue loctite but no verdict how well this will hold up with something on an arm. If this fails I'll be going up to red. Loctite requires certain metals (aluminum and stainless are not included) to accelerate curing so give it a solid 48 hours before you put too much torque on it.
- The mirror bracket (that the retaining clip is attached to) is cast aluminum and held in by 3 larger screws under the trim. It's like a $20 part so if you screw anything up or end up doing something more permanent (like red loctite) or strip out the small hole, it's a cheap and easy part to replace later on. Just be careful not to strip it out - get it fairly tight and let the loctite do its job.
- MMC P/N 94768A102 | 1/4"-20 to M4-0.7 stainless thread adapter (aluminum one is identical dimensions too)
- MMC P/N 90313A301 | Oversized #6 screw washer (tighter fit than the M4)
- RAM P/N RAM-B-348U | RAM 1/4"-20 B-size (1") ball with female threads
(1) Remove the mirror by gripping it firmly and rotating it 90 degrees counter-clockwise (to the left while sitting in the driver seat). You should feel it overcome the retainer clip and it will drop down.
(2) Up inside you'll see a small T15 torx screw holding in the retainer clip. Remove the screw and retainer (it will hold itself in place but pulls out easily) and clean out the hole.
(3) install the washer and thread adapter using loctite and torque appropriately. It's a 1/2" socket if you use the part above but a 13mm works all the same. I did it by feel with a mini 3/8" ratchet but be careful as the M4 threads will strip relatively easily if doing this with a wrench or larger ratchet.
(4) Install RAM ball using an installed arm to torque it down.
And that's it. The hole in the panel allows easy installation of B size arms and there's sufficient space for cables and the like if you're running a radio head unit or something like me.
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