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School me on how towing capacity is affected by lifting a Jeep?

WakesurfVT

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I have a wakesurf boat which weighs approximately 6600 lbs when on the trailer and fully loaded with gear. I don't tow it more than a few miles every season (take it to the launch in the Spring, put it on the lift for most the season, then back to the garage for the Winter). I wouldn't mind taking it 100-150 miles to a buddy's lakehouse in NY.

I'm wondering how the towing capacity (and handling) are affected when you lift the Gladiator? I have a Rubicon and recently swapped up to 35" BFG KO2's and was considering a Mopar 2" lift (I've test drove a Sport S with the 2" Mopar lift and 35's and really liked how it handled but obviously didn't tow my boat with it.). I just don't want to create any towing issues!
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The first consideration is the effect that the taller tires have on your gear ratio. The second consideration is the spring rates of the stockers versus the aftermarket springs.
 

BLK HOLE

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There's not going to be much info for you. But tires nearly alone make the 650 difference in the Rubicon VS Sport S Max Tow (some weight too).

Just regear to offset it and make sure you don't get a a cheap lift, which is why I went MOPAR.

Remember the tow rating was mainly limited to heat generation. Which is tested at extremes, like MTN's....so also consider your conditions. If its flat then it isn't a big deal. So gear properly, keep the springs quality and watch your gauges.
 

Gladius

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I asked this question to a Synergy rep as they had offered me a deal on their lift. But the link for the lift was for a JL so I mentioned the weight capacity of JL vs JT springs to him. He said they were working on a JT specific lift with stronger springs.
 

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If you regeared and have wider 35s with a wider stance, youā€™d be fine for that 150 mile trip.
 

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DylanR

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I have a wakesurf boat which weighs approximately 6600 lbs when on the trailer and fully loaded with gear. I don't tow it more than a few miles every season (take it to the launch in the Spring, put it on the lift for most the season, then back to the garage for the Winter). I wouldn't mind taking it 100-150 miles to a buddy's lakehouse in NY.

I'm wondering how the towing capacity (and handling) are affected when you lift the Gladiator? I have a Rubicon and recently swapped up to 35" BFG KO2's and was considering a Mopar 2" lift (I've test drove a Sport S with the 2" Mopar lift and 35's and really liked how it handled but obviously didn't tow my boat with it.). I just don't want to create any towing issues!
I see you have a Centurion... nice. I have an Axis T22 I have the Sport S with Max Tow package. I have 37ā€ Tires and have not regeared. I added a 2.5ā€ front level and 3/4ā€ rear. I added fox rubicon shocks... but I kept my max tow springs. I am in TN and I tow it about 18 miles to the lake... up and down a two short significant inclines. It does fine. They happen to be working on a small bridge at the bottom of one of the inclines, and pulling out of the lake there is another incline. I have found it likes to hold 2nd gear for a long period of time here if starting from a dead stop. Not saying thatā€™s a good or bad thing but any vehicle would have the most difficult time here starting from a dead stop at the very bottom of the incline. It tows just fine otherwise going 55-62ish down the road. Sometimes I will flip it to manual to adjust gears if needed. I was even messing around yesterday on the way to the lake kind of stopping it hard down the hills to see how it would do. Stopped fine but as you know our trailers are built very well and have the surge brakes. Did it pull as good as my previous 17 F150 3.5 Ecoboost... no... but it tows just fine. I am hauling it to the dealer about 115 miles away next week. Kinda curious to see what I think of it in that situation.

I kinda try to weigh all the goods, and the bads when it comes to the truck. Do I wish it had more pulling power, and do I think Jeep should have put more power in the truck yes for sure. Will I consider trading it in for a Diesel version exactly like it when they come out if performance wise they are that much better. Yes. Do I still love my truck now... and think it does a good job. Yes.
 

LidLess07X

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Read the warning label that comes with any lift and then multiply it by the weight behind you when you start to lose control.
 

TennesseePA

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Read the warning label that comes with any lift and then multiply it by the weight behind you when you start to lose control.
Why? Other than opinion do you have any specific examples you can cite to reinforce your comments?
 

TennesseePA

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I asked the question above because I have an opinion myself on the subject based on my knowledge, experience and intellect.

As addressed above the main concern would be the gearing change created by the larger diameter tires. My opinion on this is well documented in other threads that the new transmission does an outstanding job of compensating for the larger tires

As far as how the vehicle is structurally involved I say there is no difference in towing capacity specifically attributed to the lift kit as long as it is engineered properly. My two inch Mopar kit does not have a warning label included with the kit and there is no reference to towing capacity in the printed instructions.

I would argue that my lifted Jeep Gladiator will handle the load at least as well if not better than it would in stocks configuration. I say this because I went from load range C Falkens to load range D KO2S in 37x12.5. The load range D tires will have a considerable increase in lateral stability, the most important factor for any towing application.

The only other thing to consider is how heavy your new tires are in comparison to your stockers. You will need to deduct this difference from your maximum GCWR to get your new maximum towing weight.
 

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LidLess07X

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With all due respect, your entire post is centered around being able to pull or move the load youā€™re towing.

Being able to stop it and recover from an abrupt situation is far more important. Simply put, the taller the towing vehicle( or any vehicle for that matter) the harder it is to control and recover from a bad situation. You donā€™t need data for that.
 

TennesseePA

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I appreciate the respect but wasnā€™t the question from the OP for schooling on towing with a lifted vehicle?

Please elaborate on your opinion and experience so we have something to compare my statements to.

Everyone knows that hooking up a trailer adds to the risk of driving. I say there is no added risk from a mildly lifted Gladiator with quality tires than a stock Gladiator. And like I said in my previous comment the higher load range tires will most likely make the truck handle an emergency situation better.

So I will say it again again that, all things being equal, a 2 inch Mopar or comparable quality lift kit and quality rubber WILL NOT affect your ability to or add any danger to your towing experience outside of the gearing and max GCVW mentioned in previous posts.
 

LidLess07X

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Sounds like you have a point to prove.

I do not

OP asked a question and I gave an experienced answer(26 years of towing a 7000 lb trailer daily for work and owning numerous lifted Jeeps, 3 currently)


Weā€™ll have to agree to disagree
 

TennesseePA

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Iā€™m not trying to prove a point Iā€™m trying to get facts. You just said that you towed a 7000 trailer, that is good info. Have you towed it behind both a lifted and stock height truck? Tell us what is different about the two experiences. I have done a little towing in my day too. Iā€™m not the most experienced but Iā€™ve towed enough to be in the 90th percentile. Iā€™m going to be 50 years old in August and my dad has me towing a trailer while I still had my learnerā€™s permit. I have pulled both bumper pull trailers and goosenecks, both with some very heavy loads. The most important factor in evaluating your tow rig is how it deals with the lateral motion of your trailer. This is why dual rear wheel trucks tow so much better than single rear wheel trucks.
 

wannajeep

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Why? Other than opinion do you have any specific examples you can cite to reinforce your comments?
Based on my experience towing around 3,600 lb with the same motor, I wouldn't want to try 6,600. Granted, that was with a manual transmission in a 2014 JK. Stability was fine, but my issue was with pulling power, torque. It was okayish, but certainly not great. The auto should be a little more forgiving but in the end it's still the same hp/torque.

Since you've already done it you have an idea of the capabilities. With bigger tires your gearing will be affected. By how much, it's hard to quantify (well actually that can be calculated precisely, but I mean it's hard to predict what it will feel like), but I think you'll be pushing the limits so I would definitely recommend a weight-distributing hitch and a trailer brake controller if you don't have them already.
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