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JCJeep1

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Very Jealous - love the concept and the mods. Whats the plan for suspension - with the sub frame - looks like setting up for Long arm / coil - but the frame and fenders point to leaf's (leaves?)
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LeftCoast32

LeftCoast32

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Very Jealous - love the concept and the mods. Whats the plan for suspension - with the sub frame - looks like setting up for Long arm / coil - but the frame and fenders point to leaf's (leaves?)
We are trying to keep a bit of the old school Willys look with a 105" wheelbase long arm coilover setup. This will be built to race across the desert and climb rocks like the Ultra 4 Race Jeeps. We designed the subframe so we could drop in an LS engine, 4L80 transmission and Atlas transfercase. The drop in the subframe allows us to keep an almost flat floor inside. Willys are very small when compared to a current Jeep, they are more sized like the new side by sides.
 
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LeftCoast32

LeftCoast32

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We are finished with the hood and front fenders now. Everything is welded trimmed and mounted. The bottom edge of the hood was trimmed to finish the "highline clearance" for the front. Next couple pics are just getting some perspective from a little higher. The frame table is 25" tall that it is sitting on and the flat belly is 7" off the table on the stands so it is hard to get a good picture of it overall..

20200327_081246[1].jpg


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20200327_081316[1].jpg
 
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LeftCoast32

LeftCoast32

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Starting to look at the 4 link calculators for this.

The frame in the center is 8 inches tall so I can get real nice separation for the links at the frame.

The frame measures 25 inches inside/inside and 29 inches outside/outside.

The rear suspension will use trailing arms and triangulated upper links.

The front suspension will be a triangulated 4 link.

Here is a side shot of the 46 on the frame table for reference. The tape measure is laying on the table at 105 inches with the ends in the axle locations.

20200331_091356[1].jpg
 
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jurfie

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The tape measure is laying on the table at 105 inches with the ends in the axle locations.

20200331_091356[1].jpg
Perfect wheelbase...this is one of my favourite threads right now. :rock:
 

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LeftCoast32

LeftCoast32

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Looking at the 4 link calculators for this.

We are at 99% anti-dive in the front and 99% anti-squat in the rear. I am going to make the frame mounts for the upper links so they have 2 settings. This way I can just change the upper link frame point and go from 99% to 81% on both the front and back for the best performance depending on terrain and use.

The frame is 2x4, 3/16 inch mandrel bent tubing.

The subframe in the center is 8 inches tall.

The frame measures 25 inches inside/inside and 29 inches outside/outside.

The front suspension will be a triangulated 4 link.

The rear suspension will use trailing arms and wishbone style triangulated upper link.

Here is a side shot of the 46 on the frame table for reference. The tape measure is laying on the table at 105 inches with the ends in the axle locations.

20200331_0913561_zpsm8dsg4lp.jpg



Front%20Suspension%20Capture_zpszilylaqp.png



Rear%20Suspension%20Capture_zpso70ml0hm.png
 
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LeftCoast32

LeftCoast32

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LeftCoast32

LeftCoast32

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We have been working on the Willys as time allows. We are tearing the Willys down to work on the frame so we relaxed the bends on the windshield to lay it back a little more so it is not so upright. The change is just a few degrees but makes a difference.

Before

20200331_091356[2].jpg


After

20200407_095109[1].jpg
 
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LeftCoast32

LeftCoast32

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Then we removed the body and flipped the frame over. With the body off the frame, you can see all the work that went into the 8" stretch in the doors, floor and the hat channel work to support the tunnel cutout.

The frame is madrel bent 2x4 3/16 tube and the front winch bumper, rear bumper, subframe and belly are all made from 3/16 plate. The subframe provides 4 inches more drop to the frame, this gets the COG down by getting the drivetrain as low as possible. Currently the frame does not have any crossmembers except the front winch bumper and rear bumper.

To keep everything square while we weld the subframe completely we need to make sure the rails don't move. We are drilling all the holes in the subframe for the flat belly pan. Everything is step bent to give the flattest possible bottom. There is also a step bend at the front for the engine skid to bolt up to.

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jurfie

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:clap::clap::clap:
 
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LeftCoast32

LeftCoast32

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We then drilled all 24 holes and bolted it all down. The hardware will be countersunk screws later. This will hold everything perfect and square while we finish welding next week.

20200410_101458_zpsy6p0ivpe.jpg


20200410_103102_zpspnkloz2e.jpg
 
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LeftCoast32

LeftCoast32

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20200407_095109_zpsmq4icxpr.jpg


This pic showing the relaxed windshield has black and red circles on the side of the subframe. The black circles are the lower link points that will be on the outside of the frame. The red circles are the upper link points that will be on the inside of the frame. The belly pan will be relieved as needed for driveshaft and link clearance. We made the subframe and belly as long as possible so they can be trimmed as needed while providing the most protection.
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