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All differences between Rubicon and Sport with Max Tow?

Bobzdar

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I think the folly is going right to d60's an 40" tires when you've never had a modern Jeep before. It makes no sense as you don't know what the stock truck can do yet assume you need that kind of wildly modified vehicle based on some youtube vidoes and an aversion to using a winch (which is way more practical than doing the mods you explain). It just defies all logic, especially if you want to use it as an actual truck for towing, hauling and a DD. You can do the whole Rubicon trail with a stone stock Rubi, you don't need 40's and d60's. I'm not sure where you got the idea that you do, but FCA themselves shipped a bunch of journalists out, many lightly experienced in off-roading, and had them tackle the rubicon in stock gladiators. An owner who actually got to know his gladiator would have an even easier time. Based on all reports there was no non-cosmetic damage, repairing any of which would be way easier and cheaper than putting d60's and 40's on a Gladiator - which would also almost definitely result in mechanical issues at some point.

So you're not getting help because you're abandoning all logic and have rebuffed any attempts at providing it.

So, if you want d60's and 40's, don't get a Rubicon unless you want the other stuff it can be had with, like rocker guards, hood, high front fenders, tow hooks, leather interior etc. All of that stuff adds up and won't be cheap to have installed - and if you diy it you'll be spending a bunch of weekends working on it instead of actually using it.

If you want to tackle the Rubicon trail, tow/haul and DD it, get a stock Rubicon and call it done - just learn to drive it and it will do all of that for less money and way more reliably than a modified rig.

The problem is, you're saying you want the d60's and 40's to do stuff you can do in a stock Rubicon, and which a stock Rubicon would be better suited to, so people are rightfully wondering wtf you actually want to do with this thing - which sounds to me like you want one that looks bad ass and are trying to justify the mods, and wondering if you can still actually use it to tow/haul and DD. The answer, unfortunately, is no. You can get away with a 2" lift and 37's and the answer will still be yes and Rubicon, but not d60's and 40's. It's just too stupid to be practical.
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Elanachan

Elanachan

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1. I think the folly is going right to d60's an 40" tires when you've never had a modern Jeep before. It makes no sense as you don't know what the stock truck can do yet assume you need that kind of wildly modified vehicle based on some youtube vidoes and an aversion to using a winch (which is way more practical than doing the mods you explain). It just defies all logic, especially if you want to use it as an actual truck for towing, hauling and a DD. You can do the whole Rubicon trail with a stone stock Rubi, you don't need 40's and d60's. I'm not sure where you got the idea that you do, but FCA themselves shipped a bunch of journalists out, many lightly experienced in off-roading, and had them tackle the rubicon in stock gladiators. An owner who actually got to know his gladiator would have an even easier time. Based on all reports there was no non-cosmetic damage, repairing any of which would be way easier and cheaper than putting d60's and 40's on a Gladiator - which would also almost definitely result in mechanical issues at some point.

2. So you're not getting help because you're abandoning all logic and have rebuffed any attempts at providing it.

3. So, if you want d60's and 40's, don't get a Rubicon unless you want the other stuff it can be had with, like rocker guards, hood, high front fenders, tow hooks, leather interior etc. All of that stuff adds up and won't be cheap to have installed - and if you diy it you'll be spending a bunch of weekends working on it instead of actually using it.

4. If you want to tackle the Rubicon trail, tow/haul and DD it, get a stock Rubicon and call it done - just learn to drive it and it will do all of that for less money and way more reliably than a modified rig.

5. The problem is, you're saying you want the d60's and 40's to do stuff you can do in a stock Rubicon, and which a stock Rubicon would be better suited to, so people are rightfully wondering wtf you actually want to do with this thing - which sounds to me like you want one that looks bad ass and are trying to justify the mods, and wondering if you can still actually use it to tow/haul and DD. The answer, unfortunately, is no. You can get away with a 2" lift and 37's and the answer will still be yes and Rubicon, but not d60's and 40's. It's just too stupid to be practical.
1. Define "modern", give me a date range. Videos, regardless of their source, can be informative, especially when trying to answer specific questions. I have always seen a winch as a recovery tool, not something to be used on the fly like diff locks. If they can do it stock without issue, how come the example shown, which had a 3 inch lift and 37s was stopped in it's tracks?

2. Once again you, like others, are ignoring what I've said. if I were dismissing everything, the post you responded to wouldn't have that list of things to consider at the bottom.

3. All of this is old info at this point and was said quite a while ago.

4. and 5. See first paragraph of my response
 
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Elanachan

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EVO's build, mentioned in that thread by yourself and steffen707, is what gave me the impression that such a build isn't unreasonable. All of the photos I've seen of it look like it could still haul a respectable amount if the overlanding rack is ommited, and could probably still tow a reasonable amount if it still had a hitch.
 

Bobzdar

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1. Define "modern", give me a date range. Videos, regardless of their source, can be informative, especially when trying to answer specific questions. I have always seen a winch as a recovery tool, not something to be used on the fly like diff locks. If they can do it stock without issue, how come the example shown, which had a 3 inch lift and 37s was stopped in it's tracks?

2. Once again you, like others, are ignoring what I've said. if I were dismissing everything, the post you responded to wouldn't have that list of things to consider at the bottom.

3. All of this is old info at this point and was said quite a while ago.

4. and 5. See first paragraph of my response
Modern is JL or JT, latest generation.

Because the guy doesn't know what he's doing, that's why. That's what happens when you overbuild a rig instead of learning how to drive it. He could have gotten a bad spot, but the 2nd attempt where he just gunned it and then smashed his fender leads me to believe a good portion was driver error.
 
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EVO's build, mentioned in that thread by yourself and steffen707, is what gave me the impression that such a build isn't unreasonable. All of the photos I've seen of it look like it could still haul a respectable amount if the overlanding rack is ommited, and could probably still tow a reasonable amount if it still had a hitch.
friend of mine had WFO in northern Cali do his JK. Dana60s and 40s. He loves it.
 

whiteglad

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Some aftermarket companies build extravagant, outrageous, extreme trucks for display at the SEMA Show, etc. They usually powder coat or chrome everything. These display trucks should not be confused with practical builds that are driven by other purposes. Often the frame itself, and anything else left stock or close to stock, becomes the weak link and inadequate to support the overall build.
 

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Lots of people have done the rubicon and moab on 35s and 33s if the OP needs 40s to do it then thats on them... if nothing else it will look cool!!
 
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1. Define "modern", give me a date range. Videos, regardless of their source, can be informative, especially when trying to answer specific questions. I have always seen a winch as a recovery tool, not something to be used on the fly like diff locks. If they can do it stock without issue, how come the example shown, which had a 3 inch lift and 37s was stopped in it's tracks?

2. Once again you, like others, are ignoring what I've said. if I were dismissing everything, the post you responded to wouldn't have that list of things to consider at the bottom.

3. All of this is old info at this point and was said quite a while ago.

4. and 5. See first paragraph of my response
I spent my whole life building offroad trucks for myself, and some for friends. I do my own lifts, fabrication, axle work, and wrenching, etc... Basically everything other than transmissions and t-cases. I don't mess with those.

I think what he's saying is that you are gunning for maximum overkill, and are really underestimating just how strong a Dana 44 is... For decades all the major truck manufacturers (Ford, Chevy & Dodge) used them in 3/4-ton trucks with 8-lug hubs... They also used them in HD 1/2-ton trucks, as well with 5 & 6 lug hubs.

A stock JT Rubicon with a 2.0-2.5" lift, Dana 44's with 37's, and re-geared to 4.88, would allow you more than ample offroad capabilities and still help retain your functionality and DD'ing abilities.

Still not enough power, swap in a 5.7 Hemi or 6.4 Hemi down the road...That's my plans.
 
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I wouldn't idolize those YT car douchebags like Stradman and StreetWeed717, and VehicleVirgins, and people like that... They're all just rich douchecanoes making REAL car people look bad every time they upload, by acting like complete tards with no sense and getting pulled over by acting like idiots, etc...

Sorry, not sorry... I'm sure some folks here like those channels, but truth hurts sometimes. Those are the kind of people who are derogatory to our sport. Same with those DieselDouches that spew black smoke EVERYWHERE and every single time they leave a red light or stop sign... And put 26x18 wheels and 35x12.50 tires on a truck with 20" of lift, and the tires look like overly-stretched rubber bands on a giant ghetto wheel...

As a lifelong off-roader, and diesel enthusiast for the last 13+ years, those people have always made use look bad. :mad::angry:
 

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Wizzard stoped dead because of geometry. Despite having a pile of rocks laying around and maxtracks bolted to the frame, no attempt was made to use the tools provided. You can clearly see the approach is rutted out so every vehicle is going to descend as it approaches the face.

The JL/JK rigs can overcome this because of far less rear overhang while the JT touches down on the hitch. Options are pile some rocks, stack the maxtracks, take a bunch of gear out of the bed to gain the smidge they needed or even gasp use the winch to unload the chassis a bit and let traction work.

Everyone wheels different. Wizzard opted for more throttle and less gear. It's their call.

As to why you hate the winch, that's your issue not mine. I use mine as a means to expand my ability but I haul enough rigging gear to raise a soviet submarine. My policy is why beat the rig like a rented mule when you can avoid snapping axles, shearing lugs or throwing a bead etc by doing some walking, enjoying a cool water and letting the winch do the work.

Imagine yourself running the Telegraph Track and coming face to face with Gunshot Creek. What's the play with your design.
 

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Can we move the back and forth of 40's to a new thread and this one go back to rubicon vs sport/S with max tow for those of us trying to learn and determine what we are looking for and want?
I think 40's are pretty much the focus of OP's question but I know there's several threads already that address yours. If you ask the question I'm sure there's a few of us around who can answer it.
 
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Elanachan

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I think 40's are pretty much the focus of OP's question but I know there's several threads already that address yours. If you ask the question I'm sure there's a few of us around who can answer it.
Correction, you and ACAD_Cowboy made it specifically about the 40s. I stated in the opening post that 40's are part of what I'm aiming for, as part of the question on which direction (trim level) to go with. You turned it into a debate by insisting I'm fundamentally wrong for wanting to eventually upgrade whichever trim I get to the stated specs.
 
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