Rigid LED Back up lighting - use of aux switches possible?

[Doolin64]

I went from the back to the front. I figured I'd only pull enough wire up into the engine bay as needed. The rest I could coil neatly out back. There was also more to work with in the back of the truck. I could lay the fish tap out in the driveway too since my truck was pulled into the garage. Had to shake the fish tape a few times because some cross members bolt up through. Easy overall.

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[Doolin64]

@steffen707 here's pictures of where I ran the harness. I probably could have even gone one hole back in the frame if I wanted too. The harness goes up and is zip tied to a cross member up and out of the way. In the engine bay the harness came right up behind the fuse box. I actually continued to use the fish tape to feed it up.

Passenger side rear (first two photos)
Passenger side front (second two photos)

 

[steffen707]

@steffen707 here's pictures of where I ran the harness. I probably could have even gone one hole back in the frame if I wanted too. The harness goes up and is zip tied to a cross member up and out of the way. In the engine bay the harness came right up behind the fuse box. I actually continued to use the fish tape to feed it up.

Passenger side rear (first two photos)
Passenger side front (second two photos)

perfect! Thanks a bunch! It'll be 60 on sunday here!!! I'm going to run the wires so they're all set for when my lights show up!

 

[Musser717]

Question for you. I followed your diagram using the diode. When I hit the Aux button the new lights work, I go into reverse and the new lights come on but my regular reverse lights no longer come on. Could I have goofed something up with the diode? Seems pretty straight forward, I didn’t check my fuse yet that’s the only thing I can think of off the top of my head.

**EDIT** it wasn’t a fuse or anything, everything seems to be working but just not at the same time, not sure if it’s supposed to work like that but it doesn’t seem like it should.

**EDIT 2** figured it out, I redid the wire tap into the reverse wire and it works!

Well, here's my write quick write up. This project was pretty easy overall. Just to recap, I had these Rigid LEDs mounted on my F150 that I removed before trading it in. The kit came with a wiring harness that including a relay and 3 way switch that was not needed for the Jeep.

Here's a link to the lights Ih
https://www.rigidindustries.com/sr-q-series-pro-flood-diffused-backup-kit-surface-mount-980023.html

Here's the diode needed to accomplish this project:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007HRO564?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Here's a link to some wire connectors and Tesa tape I also used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07GDDKJ1D?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

https://www.amazon.com/Tesas-Advanced-Harness-51036-Mercedes/dp/B01I2MLN2Q

Before I ran all the wires nice and neat, I ran the harness on the floor next to my truck and tested the wiring.


Here's is how I wired up everything under the hood.

 

[Factoid]

I’m glad this is working for you, but this is an over engineered solution. From the Rigid 60a relay, but 15 amp fuse to the use of a diode. Diodes are semi-conductors and heat sensitive. Avoid them if possible. The best part of the harness is the affirmation that you can use one of the 15a Aux switches (3 or 4) vs. one of the 40a (1 or 2).

The best way to wire this with the existing harness is:

 

[steffen707]

I’m glad this is working for you, but this is an over engineered solution. From the Rigid 60a relay, but 15 amp fuse to the use of a diode. Diodes are semi-conductors and heat sensitive. Avoid them if possible. The best part of the harness is the affirmation that you can use one of the 15a Aux switches (3 or 4) vs. one of the 40a (1 or 2).

The best way to wire this with the existing harness is:

got a link to this 5 wire relay?
and does it do what i think it does, takes power from 86 or 87a and supplies it to output 30?

What if both 86 and 87a are both HOT? is there any of that backfeeding problem or canbus problem using a relay instead of the diode approach?

 

[Doolin64]

@Musser717 glad you got it to work!

@Factoid I would have preferred to just use the old harness from the get go. Thanks for posting how you would do that. Question, is 85 a ground in your diagram? I'd argue my current harness is a much implified version though. I can't imagine heat will be an issue. They are turned on for a few seconds while I back. Maybe a couple minutes when I turn them on to hook up my trailer I'm the dark.

 

[steffen707]

I’m glad this is working for you, but this is an over engineered solution. From the Rigid 60a relay, but 15 amp fuse to the use of a diode. Diodes are semi-conductors and heat sensitive. Avoid them if possible. The best part of the harness is the affirmation that you can use one of the 15a Aux switches (3 or 4) vs. one of the 40a (1 or 2).

The best way to wire this with the existing harness is:

this says 85 and 86 are ground and switched 12 volt, while 87 and 87a are the inputs, 30 is the output.....
https://www.delcity.net/images/linedrawings/Relay Diagram.pdf

 

[Factoid]

@Musser717 glad you got it to work!

@Factoid I would have preferred to just use the old harness from the get go. Thanks for posting how you would do that. Question, is 85 a ground in your diagram? I'd argue my current harness is a much implified version though. I can't imagine heat will be an issue. They are turned on for a few seconds while I back. Maybe a couple minutes when I turn them on to hook up my trailer I'm the dark.

John, my point was not to be critical of your solution at all. Your solution is perfect given what you started with and should work well. I merely posted a way to achieve your desired outcome in as simple a fashion as possible for anyone looking to do it in the future. Although, I would avoid using those crimp taps as they have a long history of corroding and failing over time.

As for the question on the relay, I started my career as an electrical engineer. Almost any standard 12v relay has those five pins. Typically, they are labeled as:

85: relay coil ground (low current control signal)
86: relay energize 12v (low current control signal)
87: normally open contact (high current relay rating - 60a in this example)
87a: normally closed contact (high current relay rating - 60a in this example)
30: switched signal (high current relay rating - 60a in this example)

However, current doesn’t care about convention. It flows how it is connected. You can use either 85 or 86 as the control signal (most thermostatically controlled engine fans provide a fixed 12v to pin 86 and ground pin 85 when the sensor reaches the desired temp. Also, pins 30, 87 and 87a switch the high current, but it doesn’t matter which pin the load is connected to vs. the high current source as long as your relay switching logic desire is achieved.

As far as where can I buy this mysterious relay. Well, basically anywhere. Just match the current rating to the load. In this example a 30a relay (less than $20 with a socket and wiring harness), would be sufficient. Your local FLAPS (friendly local auto parts store) pre-COVID-19 or Summit Racing during this pandemic.

Just trying to help!

 

[Doolin64]

Help is what makes this forum great.

Thank you!

 

[steffen707]

I like your help @Factoid, but what i'm not sure about is how you have this shown. Wouldn't the coil only be energzed if 86 is positive, ie. when the car is in reverse?

EDIT: Okay I think i get it now. So if the car is in reverse, the coil is energized and 30 is receiving power from the fused 87.

Also 30 will be receiving power whenever Aux3 is sending power to the relay because 87a and 30 are normally closed? So pins 85, 86, 87 aren't even needed for Aux3 to turn turn on the lights?


This is the same outcome as I think I was going to do. But your fused 12V would be easier and probably safer than my setup. Also you're in control of the fuse size here, whereas with my way, you might be overloading the reverse switch wiring/fuse.

My initial way: Switched power to 86, ground 85, reverse switch to 87 and aux3 to 87a.


Thanks Factoid!

 

[Factoid]

You got it, grasshopper!

 

[steffen707]

You got it, grasshopper!

I was a computer engineer in training at UW Madison for 1 semester. Then I got a C in Calculous 1 and found out I had to maintain a 3.8GPA in all my math and science classes to graduate a computer engineer........

So now I handle people's finances!

So I know a little bit about flowcharts, if/and/or type logic. lol

Thanks again @Factoid and @Doolin64

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