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I'm way behind on posting things here thanks to quarantine, but I'm going to try and catch up this week.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4803


IMPORTANT NOTE
This ain't done yet! (Will it ever be?)
I'll edit this first post as things change, but still to be done hopefully before the end of the year:
  • Upgrade the load bars to a complete SlimLine II rack
  • Add a large awning (hoping to add an RLD GhostAwn 360, the American version of the Bunduawn)
  • Add storage for at least 4 more gallons of water
  • Add a FrontRunner Outfitters camp table that slides in/out directly beneath the rack
  • Move the Maxtrax out of the bed
  • Add more USB charging ports inside the cab (hardwire a 6 port USB charger in)
  • Find a better spot for the dashcam
  • Get yet another ball mount, this time from the Freedom Panel lever
TOOLS NOTE
If you're going to work on your Jeep, get a decent (but dirt cheap) trim tool set, a decent (i.e. NOT cheap) torque wrench, a set of for-metal drill bits, and some tap and die oil for when you're drilling.

SNEAK PEAK
Here's a sneak peak of some of the walk-throughs below....

On-Board Air
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4840


Solar + Roof Top Tent (RTT)
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4817
]

Overlanding Fridge and Power Station
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4877


Winch and Bumper Install
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4973 2


And much much more.

I should note that I'm just a regular guy who's garage keeps slowly filling with tools. As you can see, I'm not a professional shop like some of these big builds, nor do I have access to any super fancy equipment to custom fabricate my own stuff. Like many of you, I'm limited by what's available to purchase. My goals here are to have fun with this Jeep while keeping my wife and my three year old happy.

Now then, let's start with the basics and work our way up to overlanding, solar power, refrigerators, onboard air, recovery gear, and all the really fun stuff...
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Jeep Options

Before you play with a Jeep you first have to buy one! I went with Kent up in Idaho at ~6% below invoice. I got lots of other options, but the ones I'm most pleased with are:
  • Trail Cam. Yes, really. You want this. You need this. It's not bad on the trail but it's even more useful off trail. Trying to pull into a tight spot at the grocery store? Trying to get close to your garage door without denting it? Trying to pull into the driveway without accidentally running over a child or their toys? Get a trail cam! I think every vehicle should have a front cam, I use this thing almost every day.
  • Accessory Switches. Well worth the cost even just for the pre-wiring. I wish I had about 6-8 switches, but 4 is a good start.
  • Automatic Cruise Control. Unless all the trails you're planning to drive on are right by your home, chances are you're going to spend a long time on interstates now and then. Smart cruise control that speeds up and slows down with traffic is a leg saver and a lifesaver. Heck, if it prevents even one accident during the lifetime of your Jeep it more than pays for itself!
Kent was really easy to work with. Email him your list of options and your Tread Lightly membership information. He emails a price. There's no hand-holding and he doesn't check in often, but he doesn't mind if you do. $1000 downpayment and the Jeep is ordered. Once it arrived I just had to pay for a $129 one-way Southwest flight to Boise. Kent picked me up at the airport and drove me to the dealership, where my truck was parked out front, waiting for me.

Why choose Gobi color? Because it's the same color as the dirt around here, and I don't like washing my truck ;)
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_2391
 
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Dealership Options

Before I even picked up the truck I had the dealership swap out the stock 33" tires for 35" tires. They used the same stock Rubicon rims, but I had them give me a 5th matching Rubicon rim with TPMS sensor for a spare, so I can do 5-tire rotations. I also kept the original steel spare wheel so that I can easily add a second spare if a long overlanding trip requires it.

At first Derik over in parts wanted an ungodly sum of money for new tires. So I contacted the Discount Tire down the street from them and got a written quote that price matched the lowest price available online. Derik was willing to match that price, saving me almost $1000! (If he hadn't I'd have just driven 2 miles to the Discount Tire and done it right after my purchase.)
35x12.50R17 Falkin Wildpeak AT/3
$1350 + $190 labor​
Used Factory Rubicon Wheel
$100​
TPMS Sensor
$75​
Tire Trade-In for the existing 33" tires
-$500​
Total Cost:
$1,215

Do not pay for the dealership to fix your speedometer after a tire upgrade!!! Derik wanted $220 but all he was really doing was selling you an old AEV ProCal. Instead, I purchased a ZAutomotive Tazer JL Mini ($343 with shipping) ahead of time, which can do a heck of a lot more than some old AEV ProCal. Kent and I installed the Tazer and fixed the speedometer right there at the dealership.

I had a full day drive to do after picking up my new JT, so I brought a few other things with me to the dealership:
  • Mopar Screen Protector. After all, do I really want to risk scratching that 8.4" screen the first day? I installed this before I left the dealership
  • Trim Removal Kit. If you're going to own a Jeep, you're going to want some way to pop trim off while you're working on it. I brought this to the dealership because you need to pop a big piece of trim off to install the Tazer JL Mini. This made it easy, and no, the TSA did not question it in my carry on luggage
  • Trash Can. Might sound silly, but it's a brand new car, let's keep it clean! This trash can mounts behind the center console, on the floor between the two rear passengers. You can easily reach it while driving
Now you just got a brand new truck, you're in Idaho, and you've got a long drive home. (10 hours for me, down to Las Vegas.) Do you hop on the Interstate? Hell no! You stop by the Snake River and take it off-road.

Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_2371 2


Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_2384 3



Once I got home we took the Jeep out near the house where it was immediately toddler approved!
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_2775
 
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Rhino-Liner

It was the same price to get the Jeep bed liner or to get a real Rhino Liner coating. The difference is, the dealership bed liner is a lot thinner. As soon as I got home I went to my local Rhino Liner installer. I got the extra UV protection level of Rhino Liner, but that isn't all.

By the way, be prepared for them to totally destroy the back of your beautiful new truck when they scuff the paint in preparation for your new liner:
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_2863


Here in Las Vegas, every bush and branch and flower wants to hurt you. Every plant is sharp and spikey. Anyone who drives on the local dirt roads gets what's colloquially known as "desert pin-striping" down the sides of the vehicle. I know I'll still get that, but I wanted to protect what I could.

I had them also Rhino Line the fender flares:
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4923


and the backs of the side mirrors:
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4922


Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4920


I only did the front of the mirrors because that's where the branches hit. Doing the whole thing might look slightly nicer, but when you get close to the swivel joint you run risks of messing something up.

The fenders and side mirrors are their smoother version of Rhino Liner, so they're not constantly catching dust and dirt.

Note - when you get Rhino Liner done, you can NOT put anything on it for at least 12 hours. Don't bring your mountain bike in the back of the truck so you can play around the area while they're installing it, then expect to still bring your bike home with you at the end of the day!
 
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Floor and Seat Liners

Following advice on this forum, I found that Jeep-brand rubber floor mats were cheaper on Amazon than they were from the factory. Plus, the Amazon ones had a red logo to match the Rubicon interior, while the factory ones are all black. Easy decision, plus they fit into the built-in drain ports in the floor.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_2419



Right away, I wanted seat covers. Three year olds can make a heck of a mess, and this is a brand new truck! Also, living in a place that gets to 110°F+ on a regular basis means most cars have sweat stains on their seats. I went with Bartact Tactical Front and rear seat covers in graphite/black. ($660 combined). Most importantly, they are custom cut for a JT and have pop-out spots for all airbags. Each front seat set comes with 2 matching color molle pouches which fit perfectly on the new seat covers.

Yeah. So these things are EXPENSIVE. But they're also much nicer than I was expecting. If you follow the directions you will need a small razor blade to cut the corners of each opening. You'll also need a trim toolkit like I linked to in an above post. (That toolkit keeps coming in handy!) When you're done, it looks professionally done.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_5006


Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_5007


Note - they don't have a neoprene covering for the center console, that's just a cheap piece of junk I picked up off Amazon because my elbow sweats when it's 100°F+ and I didn't want to ruin the console.

You use the razor blade and the trim tool to get a perfect fit for everything that a cheaper cover might cover up.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4997


Installation Note -- Getting this seat cover on the rear seats SUCKS. That's because you have to take the rear headrests off, and they're not removable. Do you know how hard that is? I found directions from another kind soul somewhere here on the forum.

Bartact seat covers are covered in molle straps, which is awesome.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4992


Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4999


I put the provided matching molle bags at the corners half between and half behind the rear seats. One holds spare bottles of water, one holds sunscreen (remember, Las Vegas!)
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4910
 
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Ball Mounts

I needed balls. Lots of balls. Specifically, mounting balls for devices such as phone mounts.

I started with some stuff from Carolina Metal Masters.

They offer a side mirror mount for each side with ball mounts. Side mirror mounts are so you can see behind you when you take the doors off your Jeep.

I picked up:
Carolina Metal Masters JT Side Mirrors w/ Mall Mount and
1x JT A-Pillar Ball Mount (for the drivers side)
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4898


Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4897


and a JT Grab Bar Ball Mount
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4895


Total price: $352.

That's all pretty awesome, but it still wasn't enough balls.


So I also added a 67 Designs Rail Mount Base in the middle of the dash for $89.

That rail became my main hub for electronics.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4890


Trouble was, I'd made a mistake when purchasing my Carolina Metal Masters ball mounts, and had gone with 1" instead of 20mm because I didn't know any better. I wanted to keep the same size, but 67 Designs only sells 20mm ball mounts. So, I hopped on Amazon and purchased some RAM 1" ball mounts. Trouble again, the 67 Designs rail is shaped like a 'V', so the new RAM ball mounts with T-bolt attachment wouldn't fit. I used an angle grinder to just tear down the edges of the RAM T-track base plates a little until they slid into the 67 Designs rail.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4891


Now I needed a way to mount my iPhone and some way to mount my beloved Valentine One radar detector.

I started with simple RAM Track Balls with T-Bolt attachment. Then I added a short 3" RAM Double Socket Arm. That's what points towards the interior of the cab. Next I removed the RAM tightness adjustment knob and replaced it with a RAM Ball Adapter with 1/4"-20 Thread Hole and Hex Post. That allowed me to have yet another ball mount, this one facing sideway, low against the rail. Another ultra short RAM Double Socket Arm then a flat RAM Ball Adapter with AMPS Plate. That gave me a place to install a RAM Magnetic Plate for Radar Detectors. The final radar detector setup looked like this:
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4892


There's a small indentation in the middle of that dash opening that the rail is installed in. I drilled a small hole through that, and ran the power wire for the radar detector down through the dash and hardwired it to one of the accessory wires in the passenger foot well, so that it has power whenever the ignition is on. The power wire for a Valentine One is just a standard RJ-11 phone jack, so you can run the wire very easily and then install a phone jack on the end of it once it's through all the tight spots.

The radar detector is held in place by a magnet, so I just have to pull it out of the center console, toss it up there, and plug it in.

For my phone, I needed a RAM Double Ball Adapter, another short RAM Double Socket Arm, and then a RAM X-Grip Large Phone Holder with Ball.

I did not run power for my phone, and instead am just using a USB cable plugged into the center dash Media port. I just prefer it that way, so my phone can stay plugged in even when I'm parked and pull the phone into my lap to use.
 
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Headliner

Hothead headliners are the same price (or cheaper) than the manufacturer head liner, and they work better. Easy decision. In Las Vegas I need this not just for the sound, but also for the heat!!

I got the full kit with side panels and assassin strips. (Total cost: $345)

Here's my big recommendation: buy a pack of 3M Adhesion Promotor Liquid Primer wipes. headliners come with some, but you'll probably want 1-2 more, plus you'll need the others for other projects on your Jeep.

Installing the headliners was a breeze. You'll have to take the top off your Jeep and lay it down on an old blanket or packing mat. Lay the pieces down so you know where they're all going to go. Then sand down those spots just enough to make them a bit rougher. Then use the Adhesion Promotor wipes. Use the roller to really push down the Sound Assassin strips. They don't come custom-cut to the shapes you'll need, so you play around and try to cover as much area as possible with them. Then comes the headliners themselves.

WARNING! The headliners have a thin piece of plywood in them. Don't go kneeling on them and trying to push the whole thing down really hard to help with adhesion. Only push down where the adhesive strips are!!

Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_2916


Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_2913
 
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Interior Grab Handles and Fire Extinguishers

I ordered a bunch of handles from GPCA.

Two GP-Grip Pro for the front seats (upgraded to red).
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4905


Two GP-Grip Lite for the back seats (upgraded to red).
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4995


One Set (2) GP Back Grip LITE in red, for the back of the front headrests.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4996


So, why did I get the GP-Grip Pro for the front seats? Well, because they include a side pouch that can be opened at either end. They recommend using it for a pen(?) You may have noticed that the front seat picture had a big tube with yellow caps up there by the grab handle. The grip's side pouch is just the exact perfect diameter for an Element Fire solid state fire extinguisher.

This way there's a fire extinguisher within easy reach of both the driver and the passenger. Yank it out, and the thin "utility pouch" tube of the GP-Grip Pro will pull the cap off in the process, making it ready to use.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4901
 
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Front Bumper and Winch

I stuck with the generic plastic Jeep front bumper when I bought my JT. Why? Because he cost of upgrading to a metal one PLUS the cost of a winch plate was going to be the same cost as a non-Jeep-brand front bumper that included a winch plate.

I went with Rugged Ridge's new Venator Front Bumper ($720 on sale + tax). It's basically a winch plate with a top cover and a skid plate attachment, and it uses the fog lights from the standard Jeep plastic bumper.

My biggest concern was for my winch. The sun here in Las Vegas is absolutely brutal, and it destroys most products faster than their manufacturers ever imagined. If I was going to get synthetic line, I wasn't going to trust it to pull the weight of my Jeep if it had been out in the sun for 3-4 years. I wanted something that hid the line of the winch from the sun.

The first step is to remove the plastic bumper.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_2821


Next you bolt in the winch plate.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_2828 2


Next bolt on the front tow hooks.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_2835


Time for winch install! This is a PIA, because you have to also now run the wires for your winch the way you're going to want them. Don't make the mistake I did and have to remove the winch 2-3 times to adjust wire placement!
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_2837


Next the skid plate (the directions were NOT clear on this one, it took me a few tries to figure out how it bolted on the frame of the truck)
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4980


And then the top cover, then snap in the fog lights you held onto from your original bumper.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4977


I used a Warn VR EVO 10-S winch from River City Offroad's Black Friday Sale for $633. I think the EVO is the sweet spot on Warn's product line. Zeon is too darned expensive.

Here you can see how well hidden the winch line is from the sun in this bumper:
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4975


I wanted to wire the winch to one of the Accessory switches, and I didn't want power running to the winch at all times. Big long runs of high power that you're not using always seem like a bad idea to me. I got the Warn Power Interrupt Kit. This is a high power relay that you install close to the vehicle's battery. When you press your Accessory Switch, the accessory switch merely turns this relay on or off. The Relay controls whether there is power going to the winch. That way, when I'm not using the winch there's not a live power line running all the way to my bumper, asking for trouble.

The downside is that I couldn't come up with a good place to mount the Relay. I still haven't. For now, I grabbed a piece of metal flashing, wrapped it in electrical tape, mounted the relay to it, and bolted it next to the battery. It'll do for now.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4967


Here it is, next to the regulator for my on-board air setup (to be discussed later):
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4968


Nevada requires a front license plate, so I also picked up a Flipster V2 Winch License Plate System ($84 on sale) from Cascadia 4x4.

I finished it all off with a Factor 55 FlatLink E Shackle ($160) for the end of the winch line and a Factor 55 FlatLink Rope Guard ($39) to cover the side of it.

Installation Note - To install the Factor 55 FlatLink Rope Guard, I HIGHLY recommend you purchase a pin punch. I got this one from Amazon.

Add a set of cheap blue Bow Shackles off Amazon, and the bumper is done!
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4973 2
 
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KeyFob

Jeep key fobs are bricks. We all know it. I have a rule about key fobs, though: they need to fit inside the 5th pocket on a pair of Levis.

Enter AJT Design.

I picked up one of their Injection Fobs ($38) and will soon be getting another. This thing is perfect. Still big, but small enough to fit in that darned pocket watch pocket all our jeans have.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_5008


You DO have to dismantle your existing keyfob, which can be pretty scary. Also, make sure to use good tweezers to carefully move over the RFID chip that's inside your key fob. That's how you'll get the car to start even after the key fob battery dies.

The metal physical key disconnects and hides in a small compartment on the back of the key fob. So, it's there in an emergency, but you never really used it anyway, did you?
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_5009




Hood Shocks

The hood is fine the way it is, but I'm so used to hood shocks that last Black Friday I couldn't help myself. I picked up a set of RedLine Tuning QuickLIFT PLUS hood shocks for $72. Now the hood stays up when I want it to -- meaning, anytime I open the hood.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_5015


These were super quick and easy to install.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_5011


Plus, they have quick disconnects so you can still open the hood ALL the way up so that it's resting on the windshield for those rare occasions when it's necessary.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_5013



Miscellany

While you're upgrading the big things, don't forget the silly little things.

Like a shorter antenna
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4966


or cup holder inserts
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_5016


or center console organizers (top AND bottom)
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_5017

Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_5018


And a neoprene console cover might not look the best, but it WILL protect it from your grubby arm.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_5019
 
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Mud Flaps and Entry Guards

I'm bouncing through dust, dirt, and pebbles with razor-sharp edges, which kick up and tear up your paint. Enter RokBlokz Quick Release Mud Flaps (Front and Rear) ($185 for both in size XL Long), which are amazing. I got XL because of my 35" tires, and long because.... well why not? These things are thick and sturdy.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4961


Rokbloks even cuts a hole in the front mud flaps so that they'll fit with a standard Rubicon rock rail. See that rock rail poking right through to say hi?
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4960

Note how that front mud flap fits on in the picture above, with the one high part inside the wheel well, and the rest behind the wheel well. That took me a minute or two to figure out.

I drove without mud flaps, then drove with the mud flaps, and I can tell you that the sides of my truck seriously notice the difference.

While I've never bothered to use the quick disconnect screws to remove them for cleaning, I HAVE needed to remove these mud flaps while I'm installing yet more fun stuff on the Jeep (like my on-board air), and so I still appreciate how easy they are to remove and re-install.

I also really like that you can adjust how far out the rear mud flaps stick, depending on the size of your tire and your wheel's offset. (Sorry, at the time I took these pictures they were DIRTY, but isn't that the whole point?)
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4964


ROKBLOK INSTALL NOTE - I got asked for more details on how the front mudflaps get installed, so I have added more details and more pictures for them in a later comment.


ENTRY GUARDS

You're stepping in and out of your Jeep with dirty shoes. You're GOING to scratch the paint in the doorways. So you need Entry Guards.

I installed a set of Rugged Ridge Front & Rear Entry Guards ($45)
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4900


I looked at all the different Entry Guard options (and there are a bunch of them). But I think Rugged Ridge has the clear winner. Why? Because of the top lip.

See that top lip, the thin part that curves upwards then stretches a short distance across into the vehicle? Rugged Ridge is the only one who has a strip of tape up there. Every other brand only has tape on the large bottom platform, and just trusts you not to catch your feet on the lip. Seems like a design flaw, one Rugged Ridge wisely avoided.

Remember from the Headliner post, that I told you to purchase a pack of 3M Adhesion Promotor Liquid Primer wipes? Well, the downside to the Rugged Ridge Entry Guards is that they tell you to use this during the install process but they don't provide any. Aren't you glad you saved a couple?
 
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Invaluable! Thank you for this...looking forward to the rest!
 
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On-Board Air

This is a big one, isn't it? If we're going off-road with our Jeeps, we want to air down our tires for better traction and a better ride, but what about when we get back to the road? Driving slowly to the next gas station only works if there IS a gas station somewhere close by.

A lot of people like to carry canisters of compressed air. I get it. They're easy to use and FAST. But they only work so many times on one trip. And what about once you're home? I don't want to worry about refilling that canister. I wanted onboard air that was simple and easy.

The consensus seems to be that an ARB CKMTA12 Twin High Performance Air Compressor is the best option. But where do you mount it? How do you power it? What air lines do you run?

Enter the UpDownAir Gen 2 JT 4 Tire Inflation System. (Currently on sale for $225)
This system handles the question of "how do I get air from the air compressor to my tires". First, you install a regulator under the hood.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4843


You then run air tubing (included in the kit) to the passenger side rear corner of the engine bay, and install a 'T'.
One side of the 'T' drops down beside the wheel well to handle the passenger side tires.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4970


The other side of the T gets installed across the back of the engine compartment
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4971


And finally over and down behind the drivers front wheel, where it will handle the drivers side tires.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4972


Note - the tubing protection won't fit behind the pre-existing mounts, so just cut it and install the protective sleeve on either side, like so:
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_3084


Each of the air tubes (one behind the front passenger wheel well, one behind the front drivers wheel well) then get their own 'T's. One side of the T goes to an air port that you install in the front wheel wells. I installed the front wheel well air ports where they recommended, which is near the back. That's it back there, with a metal tire cap on it.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4959


I'm not super happy with that location, because I have to reach way past my tire to use it, and I get dirty. But I realize that it's a spot that inset from the rest of the wheel well so it's guaranteed not to rub on the tire.

The other side of each of the 'T's that are behind the front wheel wells get air tubing run back to the back wheel wells. You just run the tubing along under the sides of the truck.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4989


Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4990


Figuring out where to put the rear air ports was tricky for me. I don't know why. Maybe I was tired, or maybe the directions weren't clear, but they actually go right at the front corner of each of the rear wheel wells. They come out of a hole in the body of the truck and boom, there they go.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4991


Here's a rear tire connected via one of the short whips of provided tubing to that rear air port:
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4841 2


The kit comes with a small bag that holds 4 short whips, one for each tire.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_5003


INSTALL NOTE - I did NOT have to remove any wheels to install this. Just turn them to make it easier to reach in.

When you want to inflate OR DEFLATE your tires, you connect all 4 whips, one to each tire. They're quick-connects, which is good and bad. The bad is that it can be a royal PIA to get them connected tightly the first time and not leaking air. Still, it's pretty fast to put them on.

Once they're installed, the regulator under your hood should show the PSI for all four tires. They're all connected together right now, so all four will be the same PSI. With this system you can never accidentally get one tire that's 3-4 PSI higher than the others. To deflate your tires, just open the valve. Air will shoot out. Now and then, shut the valve and look at the current PSI. After the first few times, you'll get used to how long it takes to drop to your preferred off-roading PSI.

The UpDownAir onboard system will work with any air source. You can use an external bottle of compressed air. You can you an external air source. Or you can use an on-board air system. But to do that, we still need to install a compressor somewhere.

There are a couple options for this. A popular one I've seen on this forum mounts the air compressor inside the cab, directly beneath the passenger seat. I'm sorry, but air compressors are LOUD. I live in Las Vegas, I can't just take my kid out to stand in the sun while the tires re-inflate. I needed a place that was outside the passenger compartment.

Luckily, UpDownAir also offers an ARB Skid Plate Mount, which mounts the air compressor under the frame of the truck, directly beneath the passenger seat.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4987


I bought that from UpDownAir and got a deal by packaging an ARB CKMTA12 Air Compressor with it.

Important skid plate install note: you will need to drill a hole in some pretty strong metal underneath your car. Make sure you have drill bits that are specifically made for metal, don't go wasting your "normal" drill bits attempting this feat. It will not work.

The ARB compressor claims to be weatherproof, but eventually I will want move the compressor's intake filters higher up so that they don't get wet during stream crossings. ARB makes this very easy to do, and they just recently started offering a kit with all the pieces you need.

I wired the ARB Air Compressor to Accessory button #2. So anytime I want to air up the tires, I connect all 4 whips, open the hood so I can see the regulator, then hit Accessory Switch #2. The compressor comes on, I wait a few minutes, then hit the button again to turn it off while I check how high I've gotten on the regulator.

I've been using this whole setup for a few months now, and it's worked like a champ.

Here we are at the end of our last trip, airing up before we hit pavement. The next gas station was many miles and several thousand vertical feet away, so there was no option to just "drive slowly to the nearest gas station".
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4840


This setup may be my single favorite Jeep upgrade, and it's certainly the one I show off the most.
 
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jsyn

jsyn

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Rock Sliders / Steps

I'm a big fan of the ACE JT Rock Sliders. He frequently runs sales, so you can get them for $500 + shipping. They mount directly to the frame, so they're good and strong. I wouldn't be scared to use a jack on them if I had to. They stick out just far enough to work as steps for the wife and child, and they fit over the existing Rubicon rock rail.

It's a rock rail. It's a step. It looks good. What's not to like?

Lay out a long blanket under the truck. I was by myself, so a small hydrolic jack was infinitely helpful to hold one end up while I bolted the other end. I'll admit, I used my compressed air impact wrench for these. They're big bolts, and you want them TIGHT.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_4918


As a bonus, you also become grocery store parking lot small-car ding protected! Somebody needs to be in a decent truck to still accidentally hit your doors with these babies on.

Edit - the one downside is that when these rails sit directly in the Las Vegas summer sun they can get hot. Really hot. If you're wearing shorts you need to be careful not to burn your calf as you're getting in and out of the truck!
 
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jsyn

jsyn

Well-Known Member
First Name
James
Joined
Jul 12, 2019
Threads
10
Messages
132
Reaction score
193
Location
Las Vegas
Vehicle(s)
2020 Gobi Gladiator Rubicon
Build Thread
Link
Bed Molle Panels

One of the first things I added to my Jeep was a set of BuiltRight Molle panels in the bed of the truck. I was one of the early discounted ($390 including the rear wall) pre-orders before they were available.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_2919


Are the useful? Yes. Do I use them? Heck yes. I've got all sorts of things mounted to them, including Maxtrax, Water Rotopax, Overlanding Power Station, etc. Would I get them again? Eh.....
I really like BuiltRight. The guy who runs it seems pretty awesome. His products are built phenomenally well and are worth every penny. But now, looking back, I wonder if I'd have been better off with another vendor's molle panels that install behind the trail rail system instead of using the trail rail system. With Molle Panels, Bed Rack, and Tonneau cover all using my trail rails, there's no room for anything else!

Still, they are good quality products that seem well thought out.
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_2920


They also fit really neatly around the 110v AC Bed Outlet
Jeep Gladiator True Trail Gladiator Build IMG_2922


NOTE - If you're going to have multiple things that mount via the trail rail system, pay a LOT of attention to the order they'll need to be install in. Don't be a fool like me and install, remove, install, remove, install, remove 15x until you get it all to fit.
Sponsored

 
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