I have the ESS (ASS) turned off with a Tazer, so that may be why I haven't had a failure or anything lighting up.
But yes, the whole dual battery set up from factory seems to not function as they thought it would.
Yes, and probably will. Just trying to milk everything I can out of these batteries.
I understand their thinking on lowest bidder on parts, but the warranty headaches they've had with these low grade batteries has to have ended up costing them more than they made on the deal.
I'm past the 3 year mark, been waiting for a battery failure.
Been constantly at 14.3V when driving so figure it's just a matter of time.
Might go ahead and change them before it gets cold so I don't have to do it when it's 0 outside. That's the worst time to have to change batteries.
The number everyone wants to overlook and yet is THE number defining what you can tow is, Rubicon Automatic GCWR = 12,540 lbs.
That is the weight of the fully load JT WITH passengers + total weight of loaded trailer.
Keep in mind that if tongue weight of trailer is over 700 pounds then it's a...
The problem with that is, they see the numbers everyone posts up out of the manual without doing the math, and their brand new JT is all of a sudden worth 1000 pounds less.
Or worse, someone that doesn't know the first thing about towing hooks up a 7000 pound trailer to an already overloaded...
First question you need to ask yourself, are you looking at putting a true lift on in the future.
If the answer is yes, you want to keep your back spacing at 4.5" or less. Or you will be buying new wheels or wheel spacers for your lift. A majority of lifts call for 4.5" or less back spacing...
Open driver door, look at info on sticker on driver door. No other information from anywhere else holds true for YOUR JT but what is on the door.
No one wants to do the math from the section in the book, they want to copy the max number and call it Gospel and that is wrong.
If you're going to be changing the load on your JT often, then spend the extra money and get shocks with an adjustment.
If you don't then you're going to be set up for just one condition, and either too soft loaded or too firm empty.
Aluminum still oxidizes, so you'll want something on them. The suggestion of scuffing them and a rattle can bed liner is probably the least expensive route.
Now, make SURE what you get is for a DIESEL, there are differences and the gasser inner fenders will NOT fit.
Yeah, don't drill the stock, stamped steel, thin covers.
Buy aftermarket heavy duty covers.
Drilling the stock cover and tapping it is asking for issues. Drilling and welding a threaded bung in would be fine.
DRL is Daytime Running Lights.
AlfaOBD is the software/hardware he is using to change the settings in the JT computer.
OBD is the location hardware plugs in to, as in OBDII, or On Board Diagnostics port.