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I have the ESS (ASS) turned off with a Tazer, so that may be why I haven't had a failure or anything lighting up. But yes, the whole dual battery set up from factory seems to not function as they thought it would.

Yes, and probably will. Just trying to milk everything I can out of these batteries. I understand their thinking on lowest bidder on parts, but the warranty headaches they've had with these low grade batteries has to have ended up costing them more than they made on the deal. Probably going...

I'm past the 3 year mark, been waiting for a battery failure. Been constantly at 14.3V when driving so figure it's just a matter of time. Might go ahead and change them before it gets cold so I don't have to do it when it's 0 outside. That's the worst time to have to change batteries.

$52,000 for a new Sport S is way overpriced to start. It's easy to do deep discounts when it's overpriced.

@Hootbro He may be able to answer your question.

Neither is saying "7000 pounds". Which is almost everyones standard reply. When in truth, it's nowhere near 7000 pounds.

The number everyone wants to overlook and yet is THE number defining what you can tow is, Rubicon Automatic GCWR = 12,540 lbs. That is the weight of the fully load JT WITH passengers + total weight of loaded trailer. Keep in mind that if tongue weight of trailer is over 700 pounds then it's a...

The problem with that is, they see the numbers everyone posts up out of the manual without doing the math, and their brand new JT is all of a sudden worth 1000 pounds less. Or worse, someone that doesn't know the first thing about towing hooks up a 7000 pound trailer to an already overloaded...

First question you need to ask yourself, are you looking at putting a true lift on in the future. If the answer is yes, you want to keep your back spacing at 4.5" or less. Or you will be buying new wheels or wheel spacers for your lift. A majority of lifts call for 4.5" or less back spacing...

Open driver door, look at info on sticker on driver door. No other information from anywhere else holds true for YOUR JT but what is on the door. No one wants to do the math from the section in the book, they want to copy the max number and call it Gospel and that is wrong.

You're damned lucky the bag of hardware is still in there.

If you're going to be changing the load on your JT often, then spend the extra money and get shocks with an adjustment. If you don't then you're going to be set up for just one condition, and either too soft loaded or too firm empty.

Aluminum still oxidizes, so you'll want something on them. The suggestion of scuffing them and a rattle can bed liner is probably the least expensive route. Now, make SURE what you get is for a DIESEL, there are differences and the gasser inner fenders will NOT fit.

Everything from back of front doors forward is the same.

More than likely the supplier put the wrong bar code sticker on one of the seats. With the way the system is set up, no one checks the product any more, just the bar code. If it matches it goes in.

Yeah, don't drill the stock, stamped steel, thin covers. Buy aftermarket heavy duty covers. Drilling the stock cover and tapping it is asking for issues. Drilling and welding a threaded bung in would be fine.

Most wheel manufacturers list the load limit of their wheels on their website. So get make and model of wheel you're looking at and go to their website and start researching.

DRL is Daytime Running Lights. AlfaOBD is the software/hardware he is using to change the settings in the JT computer. OBD is the location hardware plugs in to, as in OBDII, or On Board Diagnostics port.

With this, you can get various mounts and mount to it, locate your devices where you want. https://vectoroffroad.com/products/jl-tube-dockbar

www.crutchfield.com There are plug and play units for JL/JT.