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… no I been using EDT for years and just started XDP … I can’t tell a difference. But data shows it’s a superior lubricant … I’ll keep using it. Plus I like the little 4oz bottles

I do not think you can make your claim without reviewing the BSFC charts for the ecodiesel … as an experiment, I ran the freeway portion of my 17mi commute in 7th gear with my 37’s (stock 3.73 gears), which is almost exactly the same final ratio as 4.56 in 8th… I cannot detect a difference in...

You say that 3.3 effective ratio is unacceptable for fuel consumption… I’ll add that a ram truck ecodiesel comes with 3.21 and tows up to 8k miles … I personally want to go 4.56 with my 37’s but my MPG SKYROCKETED after going to 37’s and I can still tow my travel trailer with ease … stock...

How’d it turn out ??? Thinking about these as insurance … I tow a travel trailer with my ecodiesel. I don’t wheel this truck, but I’m not convinced one way or another that these frames are week or what

I’d recommend you perhaps try again … I’ve had 3 gladiators each with factory tow and 37” BFG KO2’s … 2 diesels and one gas. My first gas gladiator uses quadratec 17x8 wheels and the next was Mopar performance beadlock wheels and this current Jeep has the wrangler XR beadlock wheels.

I replied in that thread… I replied back with my TCU issues using the email with the TCU install instructions…

No reply … I reloaded the tune and been driving for about a month, no towing … but on the street it’s pretty good. A little snappy accelerating from a stop, took a bit to get used to starting off smoothly. I’ll report back when I can try towing again… the theory is that I have more miles...

Wait till you see the slight crease in your rear view mirror from the back of your fuel door straight up to the bed rail … I’ve had 3 white gladiators and all 3 had it …

The cheaper exhausts are without flex joints… the more expensive pipe from EOC by T&S has the plex pipe, as well as the EGR block off plate (the one you install below the vehicle)

I proposed this exhaust … 409 stainless is good enough for me in the desert … I never seen stock 409 rust. The deal breaker is the flex pipe … that’s a lot of pipe hard mounted to an engine on rubber mounts … I think the flex pipe is critical

just sharing … like I said, I think I’ll be keeping my stock axles for now … the thing is that I tow a 5000-6000lb airstream and wanted the insurance, plus I have a diesel … BUT, I gotta few tricks up my sleeve, if it still blows, then I guess I’ll know that I needed a 60 🤣.

Consider all costs … If your looking regear also, this is easy… Ultimate Dana 60 straight from DANA is 6k. Regearing 1 aCole is 1500 bucks Sell stock axle for 2500 you’re left with a 2k upgrade to a Dana 60. Stock wheels will bolt up. all that being said, I’m likely going to keep my stock...

the rumor is that EOC is working on a full delete … No ECO has what I believe is a complete set of block offs. I’m dragging my butt going stage 2, I have the tuned ECU, just need the exhaust, EGR delete kit (when available) and I need to get all the electrical plugs, as I want the connectors...

Right … I am inquiring about this… https://blackhazeworkshop.com/en/parts/ram_ecodiesel_stealth_egr_block_off_plate.html Perfect for my stage 1 tune. However, when I go stage 2, it’s all getting ripped out; HP EGR, LP EGR, DPF, SCR, DEF, DEF tank, everything!!! I’d bet there is 300lbs of crap...

Oh, that EGR. The low pressure EGR.

What do you plug the EGR tube with??? I was thinking of tracing the stock gasket and making an aluminum “gasket” that doesn’t have a hole… keep it stealthy. Orrrr just buying the aluminum block off plates :-/

I will let you know … I put a stage 1 EOC tune at 16k miles… I been meaning to take a peak. I have 17777 now. Like you, I plan to clean the tube then check again later. If it does somehow have build up, I’ll put some block off plates on it.

yuuuup, I’ve done it with and without a tazer … with a tazer, you unmarry and program straight from the OBD port. without a tazer, you need to use the security gateway bypass cable.

Bingo, good idea …

Well… yea … but, I’ll ask if they can put another lap joint and clamp … since I am buying both. V-bands would be optimal, and make it out of less pieces. One piece for turbos elbow all the way to the “cat back” and another piece for the cat back and all clamped with V band clamps …