No grief assumed!
I agree on both counts. On the snatch block I should have been specific on the doubling capacity comment, but even without that they are great for pulling in off angle situations.
I just re-adjusted the set screw to closer to 1/8 turn. Still good feeling on the road (much reduced dead spot and slop) and after stress-testing like I did before the steering wheel felt good with no binding.
The obvious silver marker line at about 10 o'clock is the original position of the...
Actually, a really good point for the OP: do NOT cheap out on the winch plate. There are numerous examples of lesser quality plates flexing/breaking - especially if pulling someone out of a ditch in the snow you want something STRONG.
The only hard recommendations I would give are:
1) Get a synthetic winch line, for a number of reasons - safety being the biggest
2) Get a snatch block to prevent from having to pull from weird angles and also doubles the capacity of your winch
3) Buy some D rings or soft shackles - and LEARN...
After taking some sage advice from @ShadowsPapa, I stress tested mine at lunch today. I sat on my driveway, which has a 10% grade, with the front wheels facing downhill to put as much weight on them as possible (and I have 37's). After turning the wheel lock-to-lock repeatedly for about 3...
I had over an inch of dead-spot play in mine to the right and left. Making the adjustment tightened that up.
It did not fix what I would consider a "soft" steering feel, and I didn't expect it to: that would be more of what the sector shaft braces and firmer steering stabilizers would address.
I have 37's and still on 4:10 gears. I am deciding whether to re-gear to 5:13 on the existing D44's or save up and get some Currie D60's with 5:13's. I don't do heavy wheeling, but even on what I've done I stalled in 4LO which never happened on 33's. The Currie's would also set me up for...
Ok, I must have just muscled through the loc-tite, then!
I'll have to keep an eye on it. What causes the sector to heat up? I can do a "stress test" if you have any thoughts on how to get it to that point. I'd rather know now than in a critical situation.
Clockwise to set it
(but, I originally turned it CCW to loosen it)
Before:
After (bad pic, sorry!)
You can see the silver marker on the set screw at just past the 12 o'clock position (as the picture is oriented in this shot)
I finally did this today. I ended up moving mine just over 1/8 of a turn, closer to 1/4 and the slop (dead spot) is much better.
I started with a 4mm allen key, but could see it starting to slip and didn't want to strip out the set screw for obvious reasons. Moved to a 5/32" allen key and was...
Did you have to move your trail cam, or is that an aftermarket (i.e. Tazer) one? The Bolt website specifically says it's not compatible with the cam ??
You can also do this with AlphaOBD or JScan if you have those. This is not what Tazer would call a "live" feature, so you don't have to leave it plugged in, either (if you use the Tazer)
Don't get too excited. I have a 22 with the new weatherstrip. It's no better than my '18 JLU. Maybe it helps channel water to the right place when the doors are closed, but my JL never leaked there and neither does my JT. I get the same "pee on my leg" when I open the doors on both.
I confirmed I have this "fix" installed on my MY22. I never noticed it until this thread...
It doesn't stop water AT ALL from pouring on your leg during a rainy day when you open the door. Instead of pouring my thigh, it hits my knee. Thanks, Jeep!
Wait, are you saying this fixes the "I open the door and rain pours in from the gutter" problem that's been around since as long as I can remember? I have an MY22 and I don't have this "extra" bit of mucket/rubber that you have in your pic...