They feel about the same as the standard shocks that my max tow came with. If you want a firmer shock I would look at the Bilstein 5100s, only downside to them is they have a steel body that will corrode in areas that use salt.
I always carry the following when towing
Small floor jack
Set of basic tools
Spare trailer tire and wheel
Breaker bar with sockets for trailer lugs
Tire pressure gauge
Assorted ratchet straps
I just keep a can of Sprayway and a microfiber towel under the rear seat and clean as needed, in my experience the only type that really work at the near vertical ones that at 3”-4” tall at the front of the hood.
I have the 1.5” Daystar spacer on my JT, it has the locating nubs and replaces the factory isolator so it is just one piece above the spring. I chose the Daystar as I prefer a single piece between the spring and upper perch as opposed to multiple pieces other brands use which retain the factory...
Check out AEV wheels they are +25 17x8.5 will fit 37” tires with one of their lifts or similar. One issue people run into as mentioned above is some lift kits that replace the control arms use straight control arms which with stock or close to stock wheels and wider tires will rub the control...
I have a AEV Snap, the install is pretty easy once you figure out how the OBD connector opens. It does not bypass anything that I am aware of, you can change tire size, axle ratio and transfer case low range. It is a quality product made in the US by a company with a long history of making well...
How can it be deleted? Someone would have to get into the programming for the ecm and remove all the sensors otherwise it will just go into limp mode it’s not like you can just remove all the emissions stuff and the motor will run normally.
I have the same on my JT plus Daystar 1.5 and .75 rear spacers, Daystar lower front spring correction pads, Mopar LCAs, and RE front shock extensions. I like the ride but feel at times it is under dampened over bumps at speed, I am running 285/75/17 Toyos on stock wheels.