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Thanks for the help so far everyone I really appreciate it. I bought a new fuse array and that resolved the problem for it to start and run. I also removed the Aux battery completely. I taped up both the positive and negative from the aux battery as well as the aux neg at the main battery...

I unbolted them and electrical taped them. But I could have touched something who knows. So if they did touch and I blew the fuse array what do I do? Does that whole thing need to be replaced?

I just checked the fuses under the hood. Everything looks good. Yes I’ll check connections again. It started ran fine but dash was giving issues so I figured it was low battery from sitting while doing this work. There are a bunch of power cables on the fuse box, maybe I got them mixed up?

I’m not even sure where to start looking. So I got the cam swap done on the pass side, reinstalled the cover, coolant lines, batteries and fuse box. Checked everything and seems everything went in correct spots. Started up to check and was running fine. It showed battery start stop not available...

Okay. Now I’m concerned again. I was installing new tappets (cam follower)and checked the springiness and most are springy but one is not. Now I’m worried it will be similar situation. Any thoughts?

Correct. Which is why I’m pretty disappointed. Like with my LJ I was wheeling really hard! Sideways a lot. Lots of inclines and hard bouncing revs. Never had an issue until it was struck by lightning! Now has a hemi haha haha no it happened overnight and was very confusing. Exploded my fb...

Correct. Which is why I’m pretty disappointed. Like with my LJ I was wheeling really hard! Sideways a lot. Lots of inclines and hard bouncing revs. Never had an issue until it was struck by lightning! Now has a hemi haha

Harsh wise I wouldn’t say any harder than normal off road conditions that you see for a clean truck in this site. The 5k is an estimate but generally pretty regularly. I did a lot of towing first 2-3 years but it was a tab 400 which only weighs 3000-3500 lbs. but on the highway here in...

It only took me 2-3 hours to remove the pass side equipment and cover. May be worth doing to check and have peace of mind. I wish I would have done that when the issue first started. It didn’t consistently show up in the check engine light and then figuring out a diagnosis.

I change the oil when the computer says. So about5k? Talking to dealer I’ll prop ably Lower it down to 4k now. I usually start and make sure I have oil pressure and go. I usually ride hard but since this check engine I’ve been babying it. I used to tow a lot when I first got it but haven’t much...

I’ll take a better pic but there were 3-4 lobes worn down.

Nope. As soon as I posted that I saw it.

I bought the parts expecting to need to swap camshafts. Now it’s torn apart and doesn’t look that bad. Passenger side.

What is command circuit? how do I check that? Thanks

Thats kind of what I figured. Obviously not his fault. So the question remains, where is a good place to buy/order a quality cam. Is the newer cam better? Can I swap the newer year cam and then drive it to dealer and have it flashed?

I swapped the passenger side front two plugs (hopefully that's the correct to test?) and immediately upon start it was heavy stumbling and could smell fuel out of the exhaust. The check engine light stayed on the same cylinder 1 and multple cylinder code., codes didnt change. Unless I didnt...

The check engine light was there before the plug and coil replacement, which when I took it to Christian brothers they said it needed new coil and plug, but for $1,200, I did it myself. Issue persist and has gotten worse since. I recently did a trip few hundred miles away and my friend was...

I figured the O2 is compensating for the misfire, and ECU is reducing fuel based on the LTFT B2 is -10 compared to the others. If I'm understanding that correctly. Thats the hard part is figuring out how to correct the misfire. I don't have the money to take it to a shop so trying to get as...

Sorry, what do you mean moving to a known good coil to the NBR one position? as in make sure the coil pack is working correctly?

I wanted to see if I can get help narrowing down my issues exactly. After brief comments from @ShadowsPapa I decided to go out and record some data to try to narrow down what my issue is exactly. I'm hoping the data in the pictures can help. seems off to me, but im not a mechanic. Symptoms...