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My rear Drive line slightly Rubs on my artec aluminum skidplate system when fully flexed. It not a big deal it makes a little ringing noise and light scratches on driveline. I am not too sure that the rear Diff brackets are going to work on a gladiator. The front one will fit perfect...

What diff issues are you guys talking about? I do have long arms but not coilovers.

It wasn't bad at all on 40s. I have since gone up to 42s and now its pretty noticeably underpowered. It still cruises just fine on the freeway at 80. I don't see much of 8th gear anymore. I am running 5.38s too.

Hey Bud hows it going. Did you ever come up with a solution for connecting a rear parking brake. Ive had my original cables zip tied up to the frame and never did anything about it. Let me know what you came up with please.

If you reply to me all take it off your hands

Hello Do you still have this Tonneau cover for sale?

Hows it going? I see the picture you posted shows a steel cable. Since its not an actual photo my question Is the one you have a steel cable or synthetic?

I went with artec. I was told By Rock Krawler that Artec skids worked the best with their Long arm KIt. They wit well and weren't too difficult to install. They are holding up well too.

My truck does the same thing.

So, Is this Ackermann thing even important on an off road rig? It sounds like you are familiar with it. I do drive my rig on the road and it handles better than stock. It actually feels like it is on rails driving through the California mountains. It handles like an underpowered sports car...

Hello, How's it going? Im gonna be honest, I have no clue what you are talking about. But I can tell you it handles great on the road and off road. Im not sure what ackerman is. Ill do some research.

Mine just fell off too. It actually is common on JTs too. Dealer had to replace entire rear windshield and re tint my window.

I didnt own a Tazer at the Time. I wanted to replace the entire rubicon swaybar with something mechanical and better. I went with the ORO swaybar. It is amazing. It is way stiffer than the factory Rubi. I do not run a rear swaybar. It does enough to not need it.

I love all of these comments. Im not trying to knock any of you that have made comments. But I have been disconnecting one side since I've owned my Gladiator. It does not cause any problems whatsoever. When reconnecting it on unlevel ground it can be difficult but not the end of the world.

Disconnecting One side works perfectly fine. Just take a zip tie or whatever to tie the link to the sway bar. make sure the threaded end does not point to your tire. I did this all the time even though I have a rubicon. I did not like that the Rubicon sway bar engages back on its own after a...

Dude your rig is soo sweet too! Im glad to see that you wheel it too. They are real head turners to see on the trail. not too many people in my are actually wheel their gladiators.

I too am running a 4.5 lift. I've got the rock krawler springs. I have completely removed my rear sway bar. Actually it kinda removed itself a long time ago. Over flexing it snapped the mounts off of the frame. Honestly my truck drives like its on rails through the curves in the mountains...

Yes, Its the rear springs that fall out. I plan on making something to hold the spring in place top and bottom. The photo is from a video. Its not very clear but gives you an idea of how much flex im getting.

Ill have to measure them. I tried flexing my truck out this weekend but it flexes out so much that the the stretched side spring falls out. Here it is at almost full droop on my car lift. The rear still had 2-3/4" to go down. I may try to fab an upper mount that lets the shock fit higher up...

Congrats on the lift. I installed mine a couple weeks ago. I installed fox 13" stroke shocks. They seem to flex out perfect. I will know more after next weekend.