Yes, mine took enough force the break loose that it was bending the Allen wrench but it did come loose after a few tries. I believe there’s a bit of lock tight on the screw from the factory.
Thanks for the video. So if I’m thinking about this correctly, the gears on the Pitman shaft are cut at an angle so the top of the center gear is fatter than the bottom?? as the gear drops down, there is more surface area intersecting? This correct?
I just did this and it helped noticeably. I ended up turning the screw about 90 degrees to get the wheel to my liking. My green mark was at 12 o-clock and I ended up with the mark on the screw at 3 o-clock when done.
My Gladiator has about 3500 miles on it and this has been a major annoyance...
2 cans of PlastiDip in matte black.
Takes about 5 minutes to pull the grill and about another 20 to strip off the camera, harnesses, wires, and mesh insert.
Applied about 5 coats of PlastiDip then reassembled.
$15.00 and some time.
Mopar does make a black grille for around $300 I believe.
Russler
Love that ADD bumper with the integrated light!
Was on my short list of one’s to purchase.
You doing their rear bumper as well? Think I’m going with their option with the lighting.
I didn’t splice into the factory fog light harness but there is a power and ground in there.
I would cut the harness on the bumper side of the connection and tap.
Do you have the auxiliary switch package?
I just wired a light bar into Switch 3, didn’t need a 40 Amp connection. I believe #3 is 15 Amps.
Just unplug the harness to the existing lights, it doesn’t throw a code or dash light.