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Assuming these are JTs, as noted above...you have 8 years till it becomes a "real" problem (i.e. you have to smog it to get registration). So they can be "registered", but not necessarily CARB/SMOG legal. If they piss off the wrong cop, they could get sent to the ref and be forced to swap it back.

I was under the impression that a swap is legal in CA if the manufacturer offered it as an option. Meaning Wrangler guys can swap in a 392 with a compliant tune, but JTs are SOL. Doesn’t seem fair, but I know fleet numbers come into play, and I guess an argument could be made about fuel economy...

To answer this question directly: that plug/switch goes through the electronics system, similar to the aux switches. In fact, it has to be enabled via something like Tazer. Other than an OEM outlet/panel, there's no benefit to tapping into that wiring for this use-case.

What do you mean "already was"? How crooked is it? I recently adjusted my track bar to correct things after a spring install, but couldn't get around to correcting the drag link for some time. Driving with a wheel that was about 2 degrees off-center resulted in tripping ESC light.

It's slowly growing on me. I paid a little more attention to the change in behavior on my known roads, and it definitely alters the characteristics even on smaller bumps, albeit less drastically. I hit that same bump on the curve again today, and it was even better the second time.

Yea, I was kinda surprised...I ordered from Northridge...wouldn't expect them to have old stock after a year.

@Puch here you go: https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/overhaul-part-i-initial-impressions-of-steersmarts-yeti-xd-tie-rod-and-drag-link.77678/

To kick things off: I'm in no way proud of having constantly switched out components more times than as many years that I've had the JT. I'm not looking to compare or see what's best...I just want something that works and fits as advertised. If I swap it out, it's because I'm looking for a...

Got my FAD delete kit in. I opted for this because when you get the Dana chromoly axle shafts, you remove the plastic bushing. Another forum member properly noted concern of metal on metal friction, and sure enough there were gouges after <100 miles or so (I switched to 4H Auto to keep it...

Seems like it actually routes the air to the new vents, which I have to admit is impressive.

Having a panic attack with the vent pictures. With my luck, a chunk would tear off and fall down into the vent, forever resulting in a lovely rubbery chemical smell that surely causes cancer in the state of California (CA PROP 65).

It says "Working voltage: DC 12-24V"

You may have mentioned, but you're running the FOX ATS as well? My buddy with the same setup said Steersmarts told him to run the ATS at the lowest setting since it "fights with the attenuator". It almost got me thinking "why do you even need both".

Definitely love the clamp design already. WAY easier than jam nuts. Only thing I’m worried about is clearance between the stabilizer and attenuator. I may have to rotate the stabilizer slightly rearward. Short drive around the neighborhood didn’t reveal any issues, though.

Started the process of swapping out my draglink and tie rod. Got most of the components back in, but not fully torqued and adjusted. Today I tackle making sure everything clears.

Man, I didn't know they had a TC knob controller. That's awesome!

Some light wheeling in Reno. Was looking for Delores Trail, but ended up exploring a bit while searching. The trail itself was a bit worse than expected - I think some boulders at the start got shifted a bit. Decided to just enjoy the other random trails.

Didn’t “do” it yet, but excited to get my SteerSmarts draglink with attenuator installed.