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I’d do your own tire balance by purchasing Magnum Balance tire beads. Bump steer was mentioned. If the trac bar and drag link are still factory the lift shouldn’t cause this. 2.5” lift only requires slight drag link length change to recenter steering wheel. With a helper, all weight on vehicle...

Yes good idea. I’ve thought about doing something like that. However it really is only about a tablespoon every oil change. I just drain into a few properly placed paper towels.

I thought the factory fuel filter was like 20 micron. Edit. I’m wrong. Factory is 3 micron. Maybe oil filter is 20.

I have seen these installed, do not run one. Only on a gasser. You say use it as an Aux tank. This you can do. You still need to get the actual tank to go in this cradle. EVO list the manufacturers that it will fit. Probably better to make your own tank for Aux tank use. Aero tanks in Riverside...

Catching up on the HPD adapter. Looks like a great system for someone who is racing, not a daily driver. I love mods, that is just too much for me. Expanding a 100% of the engine oil system outside of the engine? Nope. My 10% is already more than I ever wanted. Also, the Factory oil filter...

Update: I’ve put about 1,000 miles on since discovering this. Many heat/cool cycles. Burped the cooling system a few more times. Overall I got about 2 more quarts in then a got out. Im seeing temps 20 degrees lower doing the exact same drive, same weather conditions. I’m sure low coolant with...

Another discovery. I’ve slowly been adding back in all the electrical devices. The Auxiliary (not factory aux) battery had/has an internal short. Everything with it checks normal with battery charger and voltage meter. However under load (above 10 amps) the Negative cuts out.

I read about this, earlier in this thread, possibly the JL Forum. Never thought much it because the overflow bottle has shown Max since new. I recently replaced my Alternator. The install required me to remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, draining a little over half a gallon of coolant...

Got an aux tank in mine. Gravity fed, with a 1 micron fuel filter.

Originally I ordered a PowerMaster Alt (the Saturday it started). The local parts guy and a few on line parts stores said it worked on the 3.0. Called PM Monday, told they did not have one for the 3.0. Returned. Ordered the OE Mopar alt. Monday. Received Mopar alt Friday. Opened the box...

Replaced the Alternator yesterday. Confirmed Alt. was the issue. About a 6 hour project. Changed the serpentine belt too, Just because…

Thinking a few choices, including T&S @EOC Canada.

I do not have a Derringer or Pedal Monster. Just the I-Dash 66711. Not sure why I picked that one. Thinking I did the “which one is best for you” on the Banks website, that’s the one I got. Bluetooth, derringer or pedal monster was not something I wanted. I only wanted to add my own sensors for...

Verify with Banks. Thinking if you get the 66711 it would allow you to have 2 bluetooth working IDash. Upper and lower pods. Both would show up on the App.

Yes with the 66711 gauge layout and gauge choice is configured in the App. When first installed I had to get the App to setup everything. It was easy. Since I have added oil and transmission pan temperature sensor’s. These I had to add on the IDash. Not as easy. Each time a phone call to Banks...

The output stud voltage does not change unless I apply pressure/wiggle the control wire connector. This also changes engine idle. The change is less than 1 volt. No voltage change when control wire is disconnected from Alt. I'm confidant the control signal issue is internal to the Alt. Not the...

The Battery is where I would start.

I have the IDash Pro #66711, With Bluetooth. Purchased within the last year. Can’t imagine how difficult it would be to navigate through everything without the App.

The constant 8.5v when (disconnected from the Alt.)on the control wire told me the control wiring/connector was good. The only fluctuation with idle was when connected to Alt. with me applying movement. The Alt output wire/stud voltage stays the same running or not with control wire...

Reconnect battery, started right up with some under voltage relays clicking, leveled out. Voltage at battery before, after connection the same 12.5v . After engine start, 11.4v. Dash battery light comes on. Yes, I need to get a battery charger for this process. Check IDash for codes, none...