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Had to come back just to say Windrock park was AWESOME with the 5.13's. I stalled a couple of times over some boulders only because I was in 2nd gear and not 1st. Other than that, it's back to the way I remember the 4:1 T-case is supposed to drive.

I'll take one of the fogs at some point. They are just LaminX over the factory fog lights - nothing special.

I don't have many... let me know what else you'd like. Side-by-side with Factory LED high-beams: My profile pic in full-res After Windrock Park:

You can see in my profile pic, I have the MOPAR bar on my steel bumper with Diode Dynamics SS5s. Been very happy with this setup.

I had the same experience. Here's mine from a week or so ago (warmer weather)

Interesting... I am also on 37's with 5.13's. My current average is 16.8 and most of that tank was highway miles in TN/KY hills on my way back from Windrock at 75 MPH on cruise.

Yep - this is correct. If you look at the springs, they are not perfectly flat at the bottom. The curve of the isolators allows the springs to sit correctly on the spring perch.

Yes, definitely when turning and more pronounced when turning right for some reason. Unfortunately, it came back about 1000 miles later and is progressively getting worse. I bought some chassis ears to try and diagnose, but haven't had the chance to yet.

🤣

Yep, just oil... and no emulsion/mud at the bottom like what @Lunentucker saw in his. Not sure why, though.

I just got back from a trip to Windrock and put about 1000 miles on my JT, mostly highway but also about 10 miles of trails (I only had one day, sadly). As I was doing my post-ride inspection I also checked my catch can... it was almost full. So, roughly 2000 miles and about 3 ounces of oil...

I believe what it's saying is that you need a 2" bump stop for any of those springs. But, for the -10 you can safely add up to 3/4 spring spacer (like a leveling kit) without needing more than the 2".

I don't understand why you would strike the C and not the knuckle? The Teraflex video shows them striking the back side of the knuckle. When I do these I strike the "flat" part of the knuckle just below the yellow arrow in the Dynatrac picture.

The first time it ever happened to me, it was also raining that day. I thought I was losing traction for a split second - almost felt like the rear tires "skipped" for a split second. I was also "relieved" to know this is common, but I still don't understand why Jeep programmed a map like this...

Sorry to resurrect an old thread here. For those running the 1.5" pucks with the MOPAR lift has anyone seen the need for extensions to the ABS sensor cables or brake lines, etc, especially at full flex with the sway bar disconnected?

I was considering doing this for my JT since the euro-spec ones have it available from the factory, so I'm sure some of the wiring is there and some AlfaOBD programming would bring it to life. Can you describe how you did it on your JL?

Agreed - it just "reboots" the ECUs

There are some good videos on adjusting the e-brake inside the cab. There was a TSB for the JL's (and maybe it applied to the early JT's) so there's some good info out there. Pulling the center console isn't too bad, actually.

Yep

I think what @bleda2002 meant was a "re-gear" doesn't mean you just change a setting with your Tazer, which your first post kind of made it sound like you thought that. A re-gear definitely requires a physical swap of the "bits" inside the differential on both the front and back axle. When you...