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Ah cool thank you.

Nice. I'll try that in a bit. Wrapping up fixing rock lights chew that I also found. The TB- code? Other one is worn partly off.

Mice ate a couple wires. Getting a park sense error and sway bar error. Can't find any issues in the sway bar wiring so I'm hoping there the error is somehow related to this park sense wiring. I found this end chewed but can't find the other end. Can anyone help identify where this goes? Pic...

Those are coolS I have 6 as rock lights on my JT and I love them. Want to get some of these for my JK.

The jury is still out and I doubt they have what they claim. They still have not had their tech reviewed or even out out a real spec sheet. There are not many people convinced they have a real solid state battery.

Went through that too. JK is a problem because there is no front disconnect. I'm at 4" or so on that one and used lowers to push forward a little past stock, then used uppers to set caster to 3.5 degrees. Might move that up a little, but I have a double cardon front shaft and it has issues if...

Long story short, you can probably be fine with just lower control arms. I'd get the carrier spacer too because it is cheap and clears up most of the angle issue. I'd get adjustable track bars if budget allows. Next will probably be tie rod, drag link, and ball joints if you wheel. The rod...

Caster can be prioritized in these because of the front axle disconnect as you usually aren't going fast in 4wd. I believe that there is only a 6 degree separation in these, like the JK (which is dumb, but not the point) which is split between caster and pinion angle. I think the stock config...

I'm trying to convince anyone. Those are the same reasons I stated in my first post as to why I'm not buying one. EVs are simply not a mature technology.

Disagree. I have made plenty of trail repairs over the years. I have never thrown a rod on a trail or otherwise. I've never lost a transmission. You guys make it seem like ICE engines aren't fully developed and extremely reliable these days. What usually messes up are computers. Electrical...

Electric cars have more computerized control across the board. They aren't dumping a simple voltage driven electric motor in place of an ICE engine.

For an offroad vehicle, I don't want electric. I want simple and fixable on the trail. I don't want the PWM control and integrated electronics that we already have, and I sure don't want to add more complexity and weight an electric motor system would bring. I'll start paying attention when...

That's I do too. I do pull out soft shackles and a tree strap and keep them handy. Soft shackles are hung around the front head rests and tree strap is tossed on the floor board or under the seat for quick access. The rest can be dug out as needed.

Nevermind. Tonight freed up so I'm going to replace it all anyway.

This. Still not sure how you got oil so far forward from a rear leak, but I wouldn't replace the sleeve unless I was going to open the diff and check pre-load (which I would probably do to be safe). It is a lot easier on axles with a 3rd member so you can put in on a bench. I have used crush...

Agree. Had a transfer case leak that had that pattern. It's not the rear axle.

Nice. I have some decent rock rash I need to touch up. Good info.

Yeah that's the same one!

I just had one back out completely on a JK lol. Brakes are oem and only 24k on the odo. Mine was the caliper guide bolt, not the bolt holding the whole bracket on. Had never been out. Caused the caliper to shift and contact the wheel. Loud immediate grinding clued me in.

If rear, probably this. Check track bar also, but end link mounts are garbage and the rivnuts will come loose and the mounts crack with any wheeling. Also end links can slip on the bushings after time depending on what you have there.