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Nice. Going to take a look at mine. Thanks for the write up.

Aren't headlights canbus monitored?

I've got AEV beadlocks on my JK and they are sticky weight balanced. I've got Method Beadgrips on the JT. I'm guessing you're aware of those but I've run 6-8 psi in the truck and never lost a bead using them. I do miss having a sacrificial ring but it's less headache of loose or seized ring...

I'm not following what you're trying to do. I have rock lights under my truck and put in a Voswitch relay box with switche panel that fits where the factory switches go. You get 6 switches that way. I like my rock lights on a separate switch and to be able to run with the truck off. I use...

No rental available for me when I went in for my 5 or 7 recalls. Bronco recalls.

Rubicon with 4" lift on 37s with 4.88s here. I occasionally tow a 16' double axle car hauler (with brakes) with a compact tractor with a total weight of somewhere around 4700lbs. It actually pulls pretty well. I only pull about 3.5 hours though. I wouldn't want to pull it across the mountains.

Ah cool thank you.

Nice. I'll try that in a bit. Wrapping up fixing rock lights chew that I also found. The TB- code? Other one is worn partly off.

Mice ate a couple wires. Getting a park sense error and sway bar error. Can't find any issues in the sway bar wiring so I'm hoping there the error is somehow related to this park sense wiring. I found this end chewed but can't find the other end. Can anyone help identify where this goes? Pic...

Those are coolS I have 6 as rock lights on my JT and I love them. Want to get some of these for my JK.

The jury is still out and I doubt they have what they claim. They still have not had their tech reviewed or even out out a real spec sheet. There are not many people convinced they have a real solid state battery.

Went through that too. JK is a problem because there is no front disconnect. I'm at 4" or so on that one and used lowers to push forward a little past stock, then used uppers to set caster to 3.5 degrees. Might move that up a little, but I have a double cardon front shaft and it has issues if...

Long story short, you can probably be fine with just lower control arms. I'd get the carrier spacer too because it is cheap and clears up most of the angle issue. I'd get adjustable track bars if budget allows. Next will probably be tie rod, drag link, and ball joints if you wheel. The rod...

Caster can be prioritized in these because of the front axle disconnect as you usually aren't going fast in 4wd. I believe that there is only a 6 degree separation in these, like the JK (which is dumb, but not the point) which is split between caster and pinion angle. I think the stock config...

I'm trying to convince anyone. Those are the same reasons I stated in my first post as to why I'm not buying one. EVs are simply not a mature technology.

Disagree. I have made plenty of trail repairs over the years. I have never thrown a rod on a trail or otherwise. I've never lost a transmission. You guys make it seem like ICE engines aren't fully developed and extremely reliable these days. What usually messes up are computers. Electrical...

Electric cars have more computerized control across the board. They aren't dumping a simple voltage driven electric motor in place of an ICE engine.

For an offroad vehicle, I don't want electric. I want simple and fixable on the trail. I don't want the PWM control and integrated electronics that we already have, and I sure don't want to add more complexity and weight an electric motor system would bring. I'll start paying attention when...

That's I do too. I do pull out soft shackles and a tree strap and keep them handy. Soft shackles are hung around the front head rests and tree strap is tossed on the floor board or under the seat for quick access. The rest can be dug out as needed.

Nevermind. Tonight freed up so I'm going to replace it all anyway.