Hey all, I have a Mojave with 55k km. I’ve got a line on some super cheap sport shocks. Wondering if it’s worth picking them up for the inevitable rebuild on the Foxes.
Can they be made to fit for a few weeks?
Thanks!
Came from a 21 Colorado ZR2, now in a Mojave.
Things I liked better about the Zr2:
Suspension
On road dynamics
NVH
Found it overall better looking
Faster than the glad
things that made me sell the ZR2:
Reliability, 19 unscheduled dealer drop offs, not including near weekly test drives with a...
Hey I’m just wondering if anyone up north here is paying for remote start/remote unlock etc. on the Jeep App. If so, how much are they charging?
info online is scarce, and when I hit the touchscreen app in the truck it just pops up a 1-800 number I really don’t want to call.
Search here...
Another thing:
The fact you can’t remote start with low fuel. I read the JL thread making fun of the guy who originally said it, I’ll link it below, but he’s right. I drove deep into the low fuel light once, to the point of sweating and looking around nervously like a crackhead for a gas...
that just mutes it. The audiobook or podcast keeps playing, and then I have to rewind it…. My last truck had a pause, which was way better than a mute….
First world problems, but I think that’s the point here.
Two different size Torx bits to remove doors.
Locking hood.
Could be just me, but I don’t see a way to view current song in the cluster display.
A glove box that doesn’t fall out when you’re looking for something in it.
Tailgate without a hole in the bottom that fills with sh*t.
No hard pause...
The fob start button thing is good to know. But the whole first part about getting into the Jeep…. If someone can’t figure that out on their own, they probably shouldn’t be driving.
90s cars were not that reliable. I grew up in the 90s…. It was very common to see cars broken down on the shoulder. There’s exceptions, most of the Japanese imports were very reliable (I’ve had many civics and integras, but also an RX7 lol).
But, when the 90s cars did break, they were easy and...
Unless there’s an excess angle or excess torque / power issue, I’d go with the hindsight precaution as follows:
If you see the drive shaft behind you in the rear view mirror, it’s probably time to replace it.
I’ve never done it, but I feel like the the time for just the 45 min drive each way, spent with a quality application system and a gallon of fluid film and you’d have a better coating exactly where you want it.
I have a set of Amazon LED assemblies in place of the stock halogen. They come with resistors and don’t throw codes. I noticed a very, very slight flicker at idle though, so used JScan to swap to LED.
There are bulbs available to just swap bulbs, but you still need a resistor or scan
I went with MP concepts full housing LEDs. The low beam light is better than stock LED, with a sharp cutoff, no flashes from other drivers. The high beams are meh. The housing construction is at least on par with stock led, and seems to be lasting very well after 15 months in Canada. The HALO...