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Depending on use case. If you don’t off-road, you don’t need one. If you rock crawl or get yourself into situations where you have a front wheel off the ground with the sway bar disconnected, having a locker is nice. A winch may be more useful than a front locker if you don’t have one. If I...

I’m currently running a set of the 5100s they are not the softest shock ever.

I suspect they would announce a new Wrangler before a new Gladiator. Probably a Dakota or something smaller to compete with the Maverick and the Santa Cruze.

I’m tall and would like to be able to see the top of the center digital instrument cluster without slouching.

If you go with the BDS make sure you get correction pads like these. https://rockkrawler.com/rock-krawler-front-spring-correction-pad-for-jeep-wrangler-jl-gladiator-jt/ and https://rockkrawler.com/rock-krawler-front-upper-neutral-spring-isolator-for-jeep-wrangler-jl-and-gladiator-jt/ I got both...

Thanks for the reassurance guys. I appreciate the help.

I’ve decided that I’m not going to worry about it. That being said. I will keep an eye on it next few oil changes and send off a sample to Blackstone or somewhere. Based off of some reading on BITOG and some earlier posts here it’s probably just left over brake in material.

History of vehicle: 17,085 miles, Oil changes: 5,000 miles or less ( "most around 3,000 miles”) with 0W20 Penzoil Ultra Platinum. Motor is silent except for a rattle on start-up that it pretty much has always done. When I change the oil, it's pretty quiet on start-up for 2,000 miles, then gets...

Egr valve.

Bad wheel bearing or brake rubbing maybe? Tire pressure can make it pull. Track bar. The steering stabilizer was a good one to eliminate.

It won’t hurt to change the fluid, but it seems like that’s coming from the front end somewhere. I’d put someone else in the drivers seat to have them turn the steering wheel and crawl under there and look and listen to find where it’s coming from. Limited slip noise on these usually sounds...

I live at 6000 feet elevation had 37s and wheel sometimes up to 13500ish feet in elevation and it definitely needed more gear while wheeling than the stock “max-tow” 4.10 gears and the sport transfer case. The tires were rubbing the fenders at full flex pretty bad with a 3.5 in lift. With a...

A safe bet is a stabilizer with a through shaft. I’m sure there’s lots of suggestions from forum members though.

My bilstein stabilizer made my steering pull to the left. Troubleshooting I took the stabilizer off and no pull. Replaced it with a Falcon Nexus 2.2. It’s like it’s on rails now and I would know I’m a locomotive engineer.

It kinda looks like if you want to get that tie rod end straight you’ll have to loosen the toe adjuster clamps and reset the toe adjustment keeping the ends parallel. That being said if you have adjustable control arms and are paying for an alignment just take it in and have the alignment shop...

Argentine Pass in Colorado this last Monday

Around 5k miles on the rear. Way less than that on the front. Wear in is totally plausible though.

No idea. Probably because it’s hot in Australia😂. FWIW the backlash on both front and rear gears were out of spec “loose” by a few thousands from the factory… I reset up the gears to get it into spec with my factory ring and pinions. So I’m unsure of how much the gear lube spec really matters...

The synthetic Valvoline in the bag so much easier to deal with than the old plastic bottles. I have ARB lockers and per their recommendation I’m running 75w140 but if I was stock probably just run 75w90 and if I had the limited slip use the Mopar additive.

Wheeled Red Cone in Colorado