Cindy

Average User Rating:
5/5,
  • MODEL YEAR:
    1964
    MAKE:
    Kaiser-Willys Jeep
    MODEL/TRIM:
    Gladiator Pick Up Truck (SJ)
    COLOR:
    Red
    ENGINE:
    Tornado Six Cyl w Holley Carb
    TRANSMISSION:
    3 on a Tree
    HISTORY/COMMENTS:
    This is in progress. She runs and drives. Truck will let me know what to do next. Goal is daily driver. Need a/c & tint for that... I'll post updates here...

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  1. 5JeepsAz
    Personalized Plates. I

    I'm in the camp that says keep the original plates visible and add this era's required plates personalized to fit the truck, rather than just standard issue new plates.

    So on the front it'll keep it's orig black and yellow Cali plate, because classic.

    On back it gets a new AZ personal plate "ARETE".

    Arete (Greek: ἀρετή), in its basic sense, means "excellence of any kind".[1] The term may also mean "moral virtue".[1] In its earliest appearance in Greek, this notion of excellence was ultimately bound up with the notion of the fulfillment of purpose or function: the act of living up to one's full potential.

    And, NOUN. 'a sharp mountain ridge'.

    Cindy, the perfection of JT in its time, meant for high up places.
  2. 5JeepsAz
    6/2/19

    Door Cards. There's a picture above. So it came with original door cards. They need a cleanup and resto. The backs are old plyboard which is delaminated and uneven. Though it's stapled and fitted, so the better option may be strengthening the backing while retaining the original. Sort of sandwich a new backing between door metal and whole original door card /vinyl. Issues are removing the smell of the original (moldy) and adding a layer of insulation for desert heat and flattening the whole sandwich. I'll be watching YouTube!
  3. 5JeepsAz
    Getting your PhD in Detailing.

    So easily spent 50 hours of YouTube and reading, here's all about detailing knowledge, planning, partners, and implementation. LMAO.

    The knowledge. Metal, primer, paint, protection are the layers. Layers heat, cool, bond, behave independently and uniquely, however, each is bonded to adjacent layer. Chemical and physical weathering occurs. Informed restoration practice inlcudes loose junk, bonded contaminants, internal decay, surface evening, and polishing. Human activity over decades influences the exisiting ply structure. Hard life worse wrinkles. Sort of like plywood, really old plywood. Try making old plywood look new and you realize quite a bit about restoring old paint.

    Planning to make old paint look, er, better? Supplies, materials, time, place. If you have surface particles loose upon your paint, you plan for a hose off. If you have decades of pollutants bonded to various letters of your paint, you plan for chemicals. You will plan for evening up the paint surface, fltat reflects beauty, and yours ain't flat unless you make it so #2, considering of course, if you make it flat with just one pebble grasshopper that dust pebble will scratch what you are trying to flatten. Make time, takes multiple efforts.

    Partners. Pay an old pro. Your new buddies at the coffee corner weekend show all know someone. Detail shop employing the new and strong? Do it yourself, then go to step one to fix what you don't know how.

    Do it.

    1. Rinse.
    2. Foam.
    3. Rinse
    (Repeat until loose junk is gone)
    4. Degreaser spray on.
    5. Rinse
    (Repeat until bonded contaminants are gone)
    6. Mr. Clean Sponge
    (This is the first time you've touched truck, no pressure, just lifting off oxidant.)
    7. Rinse.
    8. Clay bar mitt
    (Gently as an mfer, this is only to remove a micron so whatever paint is left is even surface).
    8. Polish with old school bees wax, maybe.

    Whenever I get Cindy back, this is the current plan.
  4. 5JeepsAz
    Lol. 2nd time I wrote a whole post then lost it. Need auto save! Okay, so Memorial day weekend and Cindy's in the garage .... Bummer but worth the wait!
  5. 5JeepsAz
    Goal? So in that time, if I'm keeping her original, the guy would wash his work truck for a date. That was about it. Nobody was showing or hot rodding or low riding a Jeep Gladiator. Thus the goal is factory or showroom paint shine, jeep style, meaning not too bright, not too shiny, but enough so she notices you washed the truck. Whatever parts of her I can get to showroom floor level shine, probably interior, great. Whatever else gets the old truck finish, shiny but not near new shine. As for patina, she is perfect right now so not touching areas where there is no paint will keep the decades old rust look. And, if I fuck it up or it doesn't look right, I'll save up for a paint job which will cost as much as I paid for the vehicle, placing me squarely in the more in it than it's worth category. If you go to AutoZone and look at the clean and shine section, the number of products will tell why this is important. I can only select one out of a hundred products. And this one guy on YouTube said no you can't use dish soap because it removes lipids like grease and we want to keep our paint fatty so it don't dry out. This paint and detail thing is serious fucking business!! Lol. Love this truck! PS, don't interrupt your wife to share the realization that clear coat changed the chemical nature of truck cleaning. It is possible this is not of her particular concern.
  6. 5JeepsAz
    Paint. Been studying on it. Fully realize this matters to almost nobody. Here we go. So clear coat is a second stage of paint process. After it's introduction, clear coat changed the manner of waxation. Old days, dude with a rag, soap, and some wax could get the shine. That was back in the days of one stage paint process, just paint! Seems obvious, but it took me hours of you tube to figure out. Ok, so, Cindy. I've got one shot to remove oxidized paint, leaving just a layer of corrected original paint. In some cases microns. Meaning? Cindy has everything from factory red inside the doors, probably same thickness as factory, all the way to bare metal, with every paint thickness in between. Variables are rust corroding from under the paint, previous efforts to get the paint right including swirls from sand paper, different chemicals applied, oxidation of zero to 100%, and time delay. Different people trying to solve the paint at different years and stopping because they did not wish to mess it up, all the while the untouched portions continued to oxidized and rust apace. Result? Cindy has about 20 different paint jobs on her, having said already it originates from one factory paint job.
  7. 5JeepsAz
    Okay downside of resto is truck lives at the garage. Haven't seen her in too long. Want to get busy fixing the door panels. They are original but not installed. Hey - four wheel drive is functional according to mechanic. More news if I ever get her back .the wait isn't on the scale of waiting for JT price .. yet. But it's getting there.
  8. 5JeepsAz
    5/7/2019

    Met with mechanic. Doing safety first. Brakes. New alternator. New radiator. Also some dampener wheel, the kind that sticks out of the engine, needs a rubber which may mean replacement. Also decided to to the little stuff myself. Cindy can be worked on easily, I have specs and parts manuals. Why not? And coolest thing ever, after watching a ton of cleanup vids, I rubbed some off the worst parts of what I thought was an 80's respray. Guess motherfucking what? Original paint!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's just oxidized beyond belief. Even fooled a detail guy. Yesterday though, I made a red spot in the middle of the hood! [email protected] right. Cindy is an all original gal, down to the paint. More post when I get her back. If I ever get her back. He said prying one brake drum took a ton of time.
      ralphjjr likes this.
  9. 5JeepsAz
    04/28/2019

    Posted 1st To Do list in photos above. So Cindy is at the shop getting checked out. A/C is a major consideration. Posted a pic of a possible solution. It's ordered. Will update results, hopefully mechanic givers her back soon!
      ralphjjr likes this.
  10. 5JeepsAz
    4/25/19

    So I finally got TTL&I.

    Got itchy with Cindy just sitting there.

    So, before it went to the mechanic I went to the paint guy.

    Like I'm some sort of Rubi owner. lmao.

    Which was okay except I have a coat of cheapest Earl scheib from 1979 that has oxidized, unkonwn if it's primer or actual paint. Paint guy #1 won't touch it. Never been thrown out of a detail shop before. lol.

    Also I'm driving back and it quits. So I pull over for an hour waiting for AAA.

    Odd, I had no problem sitting in the turning lane for an hour watching cars go by cause this is like the fourth time I've driven it. The only jeep wave was an 80's Comanche.

    Now she's going to the mechanic before I get adventurous again.

    Love this truck.

    Oh, the cops stopped and gave me a clean bill of health, so shouldn't get stopped unless I get stupid. Won't be for speeding. Cindy only lets me find the hole for third gear about every third try. Could be speed, timing, rpms. But I think it's mood. Shifts real good into third when she's growly. Only goes about 45 so far.
  11. 5JeepsAz
    4/23

    Ok so tax title license and insurance done. To the mechanic for final safety is next. Hopefully driving this weekend. One learning is computers don't like old cars. Wouldn't take jeep, wanted Kaiser, then another screen wanted Willy's. Finally ended up with correct model etc though.
  12. 5JeepsAz
    4/22

    Well, today at DMV I registered Cindy. For 62-64 Gladiator pick up truck they did not have any choice option so I got mine registered as commercial one ton (it's a TWO DOOR LONG BED JEEP PICKUP OF COURSE). However, they did offer me the FC 150 and 170 by full name (the guy shocked me when he said "is it a forward control?) so that's something. They had cjs and others too but I waited and the last was was pickup truck. Got plates!!!
  13. 5JeepsAz
    Shoot. Lost alonger post about shifter, paint, and plates!
  14. 5JeepsAz
    4/11/2019

    So tonight's fun was bushings. Upshot is, the throw on the column shifter is Looonnng. So internet says it is bushings and shows cool pictures (great link below) to remind me of how the sleeve on a column shifter surrounds the steering column, has feet sticking out at the under side end that attach to the transmission by way of connector rods. Okay, so each juncture is made possible by your local bushings. I get under there to check. Wow! Original bushings all over the place, gotta get new. Even if some were replaced twenty years ago, that's still not modern.

    So, who does? Me? Trusted mechanic? Actual jeep resto mechanic that doesn't email back? ...

    https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/column-shifter-too-loosey-how-to-tighten.408569/

    ..
  15. 5JeepsAz