12V Outlet/Lighter Removal

[jwilson2899]

A few of us have done the Redarc brake controller in place of the 12V outlet in the dash mod on our trucks. This is also where the factory brake controller will go if the #vaporware ever releases.

One of the issues we ran into was removed the outlet from the dash. It's held in by these 2 plastic tabs and was a real pain to remove. Later on @KVJ and I managed to find there was a special tool from made for this purpose. I managed to track back from the number to find a cheaper, easier option available on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID3H3SC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ordered the tool and lo and behold, it turns a terrible job into a couple minute easy work. I made a short video that shows how to use it. The video assumes that you have already popped out the dash panels, which is covered elsewhere.

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[aj8544]

A few of us have done the Redarc brake controller in place of the 12V outlet in the dash mod on our trucks. This is also where the factory brake controller will go if the #vaporware ever releases.

One of the issues we ran into was removed the outlet from the dash. It's held in by these 2 plastic tabs and was a real pain to remove. Later on @KVJ and I managed to find there was a special tool from made for this purpose. I managed to track back from the number to find a cheaper, easier option available on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID3H3SC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ordered the tool and lo and behold, it turns a terrible job into a couple minute easy work. I made a short video that shows how to use it. The video assumes that you have already popped out the dash panels, which is covered elsewhere.

Just wanted to say thanks for the informative write up and video, as well as the recommendation for the dorman tool. Used your advice to install a Curt Spectrum in the same 12v location- the tool and instruction made it a piece of cake.

Thanks!

 

[jwilson2899]

Just wanted to say thanks for the informative write up and video, as well as the recommendation for the dorman tool. Used your advice to install a Curt Spectrum in the same 12v location- the tool and instruction made it a piece of cake.

Thanks!

Thanks, glad it helped you out!

 

[tweak89]

I destroyed mine when I installed my brake controller (by Curt) that is similar to the one that was "offered" by Mopar. Why that thing was done the way it was is a mystery, lol.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

A few of us have done the Redarc brake controller in place of the 12V outlet in the dash mod on our trucks. This is also where the factory brake controller will go if the #vaporware ever releases.

One of the issues we ran into was removed the outlet from the dash. It's held in by these 2 plastic tabs and was a real pain to remove. Later on @KVJ and I managed to find there was a special tool from made for this purpose. I managed to track back from the number to find a cheaper, easier option available on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID3H3SC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ordered the tool and lo and behold, it turns a terrible job into a couple minute easy work. I made a short video that shows how to use it. The video assumes that you have already popped out the dash panels, which is covered elsewhere.

Does the controller come with that really nice bezel?
I want to locate mine in that spot as well but the controller control itself is pretty tiny and the hole for the 12v socket is big.
I told my wife that it's time - she thought 500 or more, I said no - 200-250 perhaps - she said got for it. So........I'm looking at doing the Redarc and in that spot.
I also saw the nice video on the installation - dang, can't recall his forum name, red JT, looks like a piece of cake.

 

[jwilson2899]

Does the controller come with that really nice bezel?
I want to locate mine in that spot as well but the controller control itself is pretty tiny and the hole for the 12v socket is big.
I told my wife that it's time - she thought 500 or more, I said no - 200-250 perhaps - she said got for it. So........I'm looking at doing the Redarc and in that spot.
I also saw the nice video on the installation - dang, can't recall his forum name, red JT, looks like a piece of cake.

The bezel is a separate part from Redarc. It’s actually for a Colorado, but it fits the hole just about perfect.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Redarc/331-TPSI-003.html

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The bezel is a separate part from Redarc. It’s actually for a Colorado, but it fits the hole just about perfect.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Redarc/331-TPSI-003.html

I found it on Redarc's site (cheaper, too) and they say it's for GM and Isuzu........... so that could imply Colorado. Your part number from etrailer.com is the same as Redarc so must be the same part.

https://redarcelectronics.com/products/switch-insert-to-suit-gmc-isuzu

In fact, I found all of the parts on Redarc's site for the same (or less in the case of that bezel) with free shipping.

Thanks for the confirmation.

 

[NickHarder]

Has anyone RELOCATED this plug after installing the Trailer Brake Controller? I am having the controller installed this week and wondering what my options are? Thanks!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Has anyone RELOCATED this plug after installing the Trailer Brake Controller? I am having the controller installed this week and wondering what my options are? Thanks!

Not yet but am going to. I made an extension for my harness to make it easier (using a harness bought on Amazon that has the ends needed already there)
Looking for a good place to relocate it to.
I figured I'd likely not really need or want it - until I put the Christmas wreath on my truck, and dug and found a couple of other things I could use it for. I guess never say never!

 

[greg8246]

Has anyone RELOCATED this plug after installing the Trailer Brake Controller? I am having the controller installed this week and wondering what my options are? Thanks!

I need the 12v receptacle (for a travel trailer rear view camera display), but decided to not relocate it. I purchased the Redarc brake controller due to its small size to provide as many installation options as possible. Since it is so small, I was able to install it next to the 12v receptacle. I didn't want it on the left side of the steering wheel because I am right handed. I didn't want it under the steering wheel or on the side panels under the steering wheel to keep it away from my legs and knees. Locating the brake controller near the 12v receptacle lets me see it and easily reach it for adjustments. This seemed to be best location for me. I can provide additional information for anyone interested.

 

[Liftr]

I need the 12v receptacle (for a travel trailer rear view camera display), but decided to not relocate it. I purchased the Redarc brake controller due to its small size to provide as many installation options as possible. Since it is so small, I was able to install it next to the 12v receptacle. I didn't want it on the left side of the steering wheel because I am right handed. I didn't want it under the steering wheel or on the side panels under the steering wheel to keep it away from my legs and knees. Locating the brake controller near the 12v receptacle lets me see it and easily reach it for adjustments. This seemed to be best location for me. I can provide additional information for anyone interested.

Greg, this is where I want to place my Redarc. I’m glad to listen to any advice on doing this, please?

 

[greg8246]

Greg, this is where I want to place my Redarc. I’m glad to listen to any advice on doing this, please?

Ok. I will follow up with another post showing the installation steps after I get some sleep.

 

[greg8246]

Ok. I will follow up with another post showing the installation steps after I get some sleep.

Redarc installation:
I installed the controller horizontally under the steering wheel to two metal cross braces, and the dial next to the 12v receptacle. Here's an explanation of the steps and some images I took along the way. Hope this helps.

Supplies and tools:
- #6 x 1/2" self-tapping screws (quantity needed: 6)
- car interior plastic trim tools
- Dremel with 561 Multipurpose Cutting Bit (could probably use the 9901 Tungsten Carbide Carving Bit as well - you want to shave away plastic slowly and carefully so nothing too aggressive)
- drill and bits (1/16" for pilot holes; steps of bits leading up to INSIDE diameter of Redarc white template ring; my apologies I am away from home right now so I don't remember the final
drill bit size I used. The Redarc instructions use a larger bit because they are using the mounting plate which we are not using here. You want the smallest bit that will allow the threaded end of the clear plastic piece to go through the dash panel and have the clear hexagonal flange resting on the outside face of the dash panel hole.)
- small vice grips or clamp
- vacuum
- floor covering
- screw driver / hex head driver for self-tapping screws
- painter's tape

Access preparation:

(Here is a great video for opening up access: )

1. Remove the plastic panel below the steering wheel. Pull panel out horizontally - do not pull up or down. There are 3 plastic friction tabs on each side.

2. Remove the plastic panel holding the ignition button, volume knob and climate controls. Pull panel straight out. This was the toughest piece for me to remove. The lower left corner was a good lifting point. I mostly just used my fingers, but I also used a plastic trim tool. Pull the piece out as evenly as possible - little by little. Slight wiggling while pulling may help. When one area moves a little bit out, move around the panel to bring it out evenly. Be patient and little by little the panel will come off. Take a picture of the backside before removing the two wiring harnesses so you can route the wires the same way when putting the panel back on.

3. Remove the plastic panel that holds the 12v receptacle, window controls, media ports, and plastic cubby. Same removal process as other panels: work in small increments and pull straight out horizontally. When this piece comes out, take some pictures of all the wiring before disconnecting. This is really just for reference of the wire routing to get things to close back up nicely. All of the connectors are different with the exception of the two media ports, so pay special attention to those so you know which color cable goes where.

Controller:

Orient the controller with the dial cable connection on the right side and the brake control cable connection on the left side (sitting in the driver seat facing the steering wheel ).
This worked well since the dial will be on the right side and the Gladiator brake control wiring harness is on the left side.

I mounted the controller horizontally with the side closest to the driver seat screwed directly up into the bottom edge of the first cross brace below the steering wheel. I mounted the other side of the controller on top of 1" aluminum angle bracket (1/16" thick). The angle bracket was positioned to go towards the firewall horizontally and then turn down in front of and parallel to the second cross brace where the two can be attached.

The aluminum angle bracket should be just wide enough to cover the Redarc controller screw slots so you have enough material to screw into, but don't make it any wider - it won't be as wide as the controller box just wide enough for the screw holes. There is piece of black metal on the second cross brace that the angle bracket will butt up to.

I used painters tape to hold the angle bracket in position on the cross brace and then dry fit the controller and marked through the hole slots with a black sharpie. I had to move the edge of the controller along the angle bracket from the top to under the angle bracket to make marks for pilot holes, but I later assembled it with the controller on top of the angle bracket. I positioned the angle bracket low on the cross brace and butted it on the left side against a black piece of metal attached to the cross brace.

After dry fitting, but before drilling/installing the controller, you will want to connect/stub in the wiring while you have plenty of room under the steering wheel. Connect the controller cable to the gladiator brake controller wiring harness. I had to remove some tape holding this wiring harness to be able to make a connection to it. Then route the wiring to the Redarc controller.

Make sure to tie up the wiring and keep it away from sharp metal edges and pedals that could pinch it. Keep the cable high enough to make sure feet won't contact it.

Then route the dial wiring, keeping excess length coming out of the dash panel. Tie up the steering wheel side of the dial cable to secure.

Next, outside of the car, I attached the controller to the top of the angle bracket, drilling pilot holes where marked and then using the self-tapping screws. Now test fit this unit and make sure the pilot hole marks are still good for the first cross brace.

Cover the floor area before proceeding. The drilling and self-tapping screws will produce metal shavings.

Drill the pilot holes and then screw the controller in place.

I used a small pair of vice grips to then hold the angle bracket against the second cross brace so I could drill the pilot holes and screw together.

Now vacuum all around the screws and cross braces, and also the carpet floor mats to remove any metal shavings.


Dial:

For this you can take the panel piece out of the car and find a suitable work area.
Position the white template ring where the dial is to be located on the front of the plastic dash panel. Place the dial on top and check for interference with the 12v receptacle. Also check the back for approximate position and any issues there. I used painters tape to hold the white template in place and to cover up switches, etc. to prevent plastic debris from getting in. Put painters tape on the back side around the 12v receptacle. It has holes and you don't want plastic debris getting in there. Use the tape liberally to keep the debris from getting into other areas.
Drill a pilot hole in the middle of the white ring. Check front and back for issues. Start drilling bigger holes as you are comfortable. I used a lot of bits and stepped up slowly.

NOTE: if you have a drill press and can secure the plastic panel great - go for it. If not, then be aware that when you start hitting the silver plastic on one side of the hole, this is going to cause the drill bit to get pushed away (path of least resistance). You may need to resist this, or start getting rid of the plastic that is interfering from the backside. At this point you can approximate the located of the black dial control and identify the silver plastic that will need to be removed so that it can sit flush. Carefully Dremel the silver plastic that needs to be removed. Take away thin layers and be very patient so that you don't drill too far down and go through the black console panel. Stop frequently and test fit the black dial control and also the clear plastic piece. When the dial pieces are fitting nicely, then vacuum up all the plastic debris and take off all the tape. Snug the dial up and take the dash panel back to the car. Connect the dial wiring and tie up any excess. Now reconnect all the dash panel wiring and put the dash panels back in reverse order.

My apologies for such a wordy write up. Here are some images that I took along the way that should help visually. Feel free to ask me any questions you have.

Greg

 

[Liftr]

Thanks for the great write up.
I was really curious how to relieve the space behind the panel to accommodate the dial.

 

[Gladman]

Anyone notice what appears to be a second moulding for a 12v socket located behind and just to the left of the active outlet?
I had the center panel off just above the brake (as shown in pic above) and noticed this molding that is recessed about 2’’ back of the active 12V socket.

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