3.6 Rear motor mount bolt removal

[Summitdan]

Has anyone needed to remove these? They go into a welded nut, and are removed from the top. As part of a skid install, I need to replace the rear mount’s inner bolt with a longer one. The skid mounting bracket then attaches using the extra length of bolt below the mount, with another nut and washers. The top of the bolt is difficult to access, and requires heat to get it to move. I can access it with a small 1/4” drive ratchet and a 13mm socket, but if I heat it with propane for 30 seconds, it turns well for about 20 seconds. And there’s only room for a single ratchet click. With that method, I’d expect it to take hours per bolt.

If anyone has needed to remove these, what tool did you use? Thanks.

The picture is from the vendor showing one with the bracket installed, to provide a reference, if my description of which bolt this is wasn’t sufficient.

 

[Lost1wing]

You are talking about the one on the passenger side? My 3/8 craftsman air ratchet fits in there with the wheel well liner loosened. The drivers side has room for a long extension. If you don't have air tools I believe access through the wheel well is better anyhow.

 

[Summitdan]

I need to do the rear, inner bolt on both driver and passenger sides. No room on either side, and I couldn’t get my battery ratchet into either via wheel well. Can you send me a picture of your air ratchet, if handy? I’m headed to buy a tool to make this doable. I have a compressor, just no air ratchet. Thanks.

 

[rickrogan]

I had to do this recently when installing the Artec aluminum skid system. It was one of the toughest parts of the job.

I don’t recall doing anything special for getting the bolt out. Just a ton of penetrating oil and letting it sit overnight. And then grunting and banged knuckles. I didn’t use anything other than wrenches and ratchets

I don’t have a lot of experience with heat, so I don’t trust myself. You are right that there is very little room to maneuver up there.

But on my JTR, the harder part was getting the new bolt in. The factory bolt (with washer in pic below) has an end that makes it easier to thread. Whereas the provided bolt has threads that go all the way to the end. (Real Mechanics probably know the term for this!) So getting the provided bolt started was a bear.

It felt to me like the threading wasn’t exactly right. My Dad (a Real Mechanic) guessed the threads were galled and suggested starting the factory bolt from the bottom, which I could do, and running it in and out with my driver (at speed) with ample penetrating oil.

About 10 minutes of that, first with the factory bolt, and then with the provided bolt, really improved the threads of the engine mount.

After that, it took about a half dozen attempts to get the bolt on from the top, but it went in.

 

[Rusty PW]

I had to do this recently when installing the Artec aluminum skid system. It was one of the toughest parts of the job.

I don’t recall doing anything special for getting the bolt out. Just a ton of penetrating oil and letting it sit overnight. And then grunting and banged knuckles. I didn’t use anything other than wrenches and ratchets

I don’t have a lot of experience with heat, so I don’t trust myself. You are right that there is very little room to maneuver up there.

But on my JTR, the harder part was getting the new bolt in. The factory bolt (with washer in pic below) has an end that makes it easier to thread. Whereas the provided bolt has threads that go all the way to the end. (Real Mechanics probably know the term for this!) So getting the provided bolt started was a bear.

It felt to me like the threading wasn’t exactly right. My Dad (a Real Mechanic) guessed the threads were galled and suggested starting the factory bolt from the bottom, which I could do, and running it in and out with my driver (at speed) with ample penetrating oil.

About 10 minutes of that, first with the factory bolt, and then with the provided bolt, really improved the threads of the engine mount.

After that, it took about a half dozen attempts to get the bolt on from the top, but it went in.

The threads on the left on got rolled and flatten.

 

[Summitdan]

I had to do this recently when installing the Artec aluminum skid system. It was one of the toughest parts of the job.

I don’t recall doing anything special for getting the bolt out. Just a ton of penetrating oil and letting it sit overnight. And then grunting and banged knuckles. I didn’t use anything other than wrenches and ratchets

I don’t have a lot of experience with heat, so I don’t trust myself. You are right that there is very little room to maneuver up there.

But on my JTR, the harder part was getting the new bolt in. The factory bolt (with washer in pic below) has an end that makes it easier to thread. Whereas the provided bolt has threads that go all the way to the end. (Real Mechanics probably know the term for this!) So getting the provided bolt started was a bear.

It felt to me like the threading wasn’t exactly right. My Dad (a Real Mechanic) guessed the threads were galled and suggested starting the factory bolt from the bottom, which I could do, and running it in and out with my driver (at speed) with ample penetrating oil.

About 10 minutes of that, first with the factory bolt, and then with the provided bolt, really improved the threads of the engine mount.

After that, it took about a half dozen attempts to get the bolt on from the top, but it went in.

Well that sucks. Yep. I’ve got the rear two skids installed, and I’m thinking it’s going to take me all day to replace two bolts. Then 20 mins to install the skid. I’m super tempted to see if the factory bolt has enough thread to just use it. But I won’t. Perfectionist.

 

[Summitdan]

The threads on the left on got rolled and flatten.

Do you mean during removal? That’s a stock bolt. It comes machined that way. Machined is probably inaccurate. Maybe forged.

 

[Rusty PW]

Do you mean during removal? That’s a stock bolt. It comes machined that way. Machined is probably inaccurate. Maybe forged.

That bolt was used. Need to compare it to a new one. Bet the threads on the new one doesn't look like. Remember he ran that bolt in and out a few times on damaged threads.

 

[Summitdan]

That bolt was used. Need to compare it to a new one. Bet the threads on the new one doesn't look like. Remember he ran that bolt in and out a few times on damaged threads.

My unmolested bolt is identical. I also don’t think the threads were damaged necessarily. There’s truly nasty thread locker on these bolts, which is why I’m using heat. I think the penetrating liquid over multiple passes helped break that down slowly.

 

[Rusty PW]

My unmolested bolt is identical. I also don’t think the threads were damaged necessarily. There’s truly nasty thread locker on these bolts, which is why I’m using heat. I think the penetrating liquid over multiple passes helped break that down slowly.

If the bolt is like that brand new, unused. Then it's a locking thread.

Something else to think about. I don't know if they still use it or not. Triple boiled linseed oil. They used it as a lubricant / thread locker. Dip the bolts into it to lubricate. And when it dried. It became a thread locker. Think it's worse than red lock tite. Always had to heat the bolts up with a torch to remove.

 

[Summitdan]

If the bolt is like that brand new, unused. Then it's a locking thread.

Something else to think about. I don't know if they still use it or not. Triple boiled linseed oil. They used it as a lubricant / thread locker. Dip the bolts into it to lubricate. And when it dried. It became a thread locker. Think it's worse than red lock tite. Always had to heat the bolts up with a torch to remove.

Yep. Terrible stuff to deal with.

 

[Rusty PW]

Yep. Terrible stuff to deal with.

Wonder if they are still using it, or something like it.

 

[Summitdan]

You are talking about the one on the passenger side? My 3/8 craftsman air ratchet fits in there with the wheel well liner loosened. The drivers side has room for a long extension. If you don't have air tools I believe access through the wheel well is better anyhow.

Ok. Here’s where the laughing begins. First. Thanks. Picked up a pneumatic ratchet, heated it and got the passenger side out. Second. The hot bolt fell out, landed on my chest, made its way into my full length coveralls, and down to my right shoulder. I Jumped out from under and shook it out of the sleeve. I now have a perfect bolt burned onto my right shoulder. I’m going to start a “what did your gladiator do to you today” thread. Dammit. Now enjoying a beer before putting new bolt in. My wife found this very funny.

Edit. Here’s the picture.

 

[Lost1wing]

Glad you got it. I wish it didn't hurt so bad. It was supposed to be easy.

 

[Summitdan]

Easy. No. But it’s done!

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