30k Service - do I need to do all these items?

[culdbbi]

Do I need all this at 30k, I'm assuming the fuel system stuff I can't do myself. Filters I have covered. I can't believe the brake fluid need replacing. And is the 4×4 just service, just draining and replacing diff oil?

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[ScottBeach]

Yikes. Please see another dealer. Zero of thst list makes sense or priced reasonable

The diff oil replacement. (4x4 service) is really not a 30k item and price was 199$ for me. The fuel systems services are redundant and not required
Cabin and air filter are more more than 200% over what it should cost.

Not sure its worth trying to get a valid quote from the dealer that gave you that

 

[bleda2002]

Can anyone tell me what the 4x4 service is? Wouldn't that just be swapping transfer case oil?

All of these things seem excessively priced for what they are and you could probably do all of them in 4 hours on your driveway. Induction and injector cleaning are typically just tossing a bottle of stp in

 

[fourfa]

Those are offensive prices

 

[Vtur]

Do I need all this at 30k, I'm assuming the fuel system stuff I can't do myself. Filters I have covered. I can't believe the brake fluid need replacing. And is the 4×4 just service, just draining and replacing diff oil?

Skips everything except cabin and air filters. Just buy the filters and changing them yourself.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Do I need all this at 30k, I'm assuming the fuel system stuff I can't do myself. Filters I have covered. I can't believe the brake fluid need replacing. And is the 4×4 just service, just draining and replacing diff oil?

Every since I first stated driving, the recommendation from the brake manufacturers, thus the car makers, has been annually flush the brake lines and replace with fresh fluid. A few years back Bendix and others started saying every 2 years (likely due to all disk brakes, better sealed systems)
So yes, unless you want crud and acids to etch the caliper bores, master cylinder bore, and lines to deteriorate from the inside out, a flush is recommended.
My F250 rotted the brake lines from the inside out. They looked GREAT on the outside, like new. But slowly they popped.
I wasn't taking good care of it.
My cars get a brake system flush every two years.
My other vehicles like these Jeeps - about 3 years. I go by TIME not miles.
You could put 30,000 miles on in a year - so it's sort of silly to go with miles. Even the brake manufacturers go by TIME.

The reason for the flush is that brake fluid has an affinity for H2O. It will pull it out of the air. Changes in air pressure, brake system pressure, humities, temperatures and so on can allow moisture in.
It's not as bad as it used to be, but on the other hand, ABS is a lot more tricky for tolerances inside. You get nasty fluid and you get ABS issues.

If you have the right software tools you can put the ABS into a mode to help with the brake system flush. I always use the gravity method, starting with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder hydraulically (and that may not be the same as physical distance!) and work my way back.
If you plan on unloading it on some unsuspecting schmuck in 3 years, don't bother. But if you want to keep it - brakes are the most important part of the whole truck. People will spend 10 grand on pretty stuff to impress but won't spend a fraction of that for brake care? Real logical. Pretty - but it can't stop.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Those are offensive prices

Not for the brake system flush if they have a $175-$200 hourly rate. Count in the cost of fluid, putting the ABS into the mode to flush the system, you have that much in labor and fluid.

I'm just amazed at the logic - the people who won't spend $200 on safety - like BRAKES, will of course spend $2,000 for a bumper to impress their peers.

Cabin air filters etc. - go to Amazon, buy 'em, replace them. The cabin filters are as easier if not easier than the engine air filter, IMO. You can buy either OEM or name brand replacements like AC and so on for the filters.

 

[Not2Late]

Looks like you have the DIY stuff covered. Cabin and engine air cleaners are pretty easy to do yourself. I think the fuel induction system cleaning and fuel injector service are crock charges for a vehicle with only 30k mikes on it - pure profit, over $400 for what? If you run quality fuel, keep the air filter changed and maybe throw some bottled cleaners in the tank on occassion, you should be fine.

The 4x4 service. There are two differentials and a transfer case, and I think there are different intervals for them. Of all of them, I would be inclinded to replace the rear at 30k. of course if you do a lot of hard wheeling, that may be a different story. But you can't go wrong, in my opinion, if you change those fluids sooner than the intervals specified in the manual - especially the first time after the factory fills and the intitial wear of the gears creates some fine metal "dust" in the oil and stuck to the drain plug magnet. But $500 is too much for that!

I'm a fan of brake fluid changes 30 - 60k miles seems about right. Water is the ememy. Really, you need to look at the fluid. If it is still kind of clear/amber, it usually means it is ok unless you know of some cantamination that took place. Just make sure they actually bleed out each line at the wheels as they add more fluid at the reservoir. Simply sucking it out of the reservoir and putting new fluid in there leaves all the old stuff in the lines. A local tire/brake shop did it for me for $90

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I'm a fan of brake fluid changes 30 - 60k miles seems about right. Really, you need to look at the fluid. If it is still kind of clear/amber, it usually means it is ok unless you know of some cantamination that took place. Just make sure they actually bleed out each line at the wheels as they add more fluid at the reservoir. Simply sucking it out of the reservoir and putting new fluid in there leaves all the old stuff in the lines. A local tire/brake shop did it for me for $90

The problem is - the fluid in the reservoir will look decent - it's what is at the ends of the lines, in the calipers, etc. that can be crap.
The brake experts - and those that make the brakes (Bendix and others) go by TIME, not miles. You can have a vehicle 5 years old with only 30K miles, or one that's 2 years old with 60K miles.
Every two years is what trained brake people have learned, and what the cert tests go by.

 

[Bobchadwickga]

Dealers have things they would like to do. They are not all manufacturers recommended service. Pull out the manual and ask for a quote for manufacturers recommended service. I took my Charger in at 30,000 miles and told them just that. Price was less than half the original quote.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Like many here, I’d do the service myself and save all that cash. You have to prove you did it though in case warranties are needed later.

As far as the brake flush goes, go to your local auto store and pick up one of these gizmos that reads the moisture content in the fluid. Let it tell you when the flush is needed.
I actually went out to do some pics for you when I read this thread but when I went to use the tool on the brake fluid, there’s a screen just under the lid and the fluid has dropped just under the screen so the tool probes can’t touch the fluid to do the test. So I’m off to get some DOT 3 Fluid and top it up to the max line and after a while, I’ll check the condition of the fluid with the brake fluid tester.

Don’t assume! Get tests done, do your own stuff, have the right tools to check stuff like this and you’ll never be at the mercy of guesses, opinions and pressure tactics.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I just do it because H2O content is part of the story (and measured only at the reservoir)

If you add fluid, you'll have to do a heck of a lot of driving and braking to get a decent reading.

 

[49Gramps]

Searching the web (because I'm too damn lazy to check the owner's manual), I found that according to KBB, Jeep recommends the following at 32000 miles:

• Rotate tires
• Inspect all door latches for presence of grease, reapply if necessary
• Inspect battery and clean and tighten terminals as required
• Inspect brake pads, shoes, rotors, drums, hoses and parking brake
• Inspect engine air cleaner filter, replace if necessary
• Inspect engine cooling system protection and hoses
• Inspect exhaust system

 

[Lunentucker]

Is this US dollars?

 

[Casique]

That my friend (OP) is simple highway robbery!

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