37 13.5 17 tires on 17x7.5 wheels

Jeeperjamie

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Can you do it, is anyone doing it, and what's the draw backs to doing it. I'm not wanting to purchase new wheels because I like stock steelies but I am thinking about maybe putting a wider tire on if I I can. A little info on my side, I already have spacers installed so I'm not concerned about back spacing. I know a lot of shops want do it. If anyone is doing it, post up some pictures. Thanks!!!!





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cshoem286

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Per the tire specifications, the rim size is too narrow ..... But yes it can be done and I use this setup as a spare.
 
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Per the tire specifications, the rim size is too narrow ..... But yes it can be done and I use this setup as a spare.
Yeah I know that, it says a 37 12.5 17 is not supposed to be run on a 17x7.5 wheel also. I'm wondering if anyone is running it on road. I just put 37 12.5 17 Goodyears on mine and when these wear out I'm thinking about going to a 13.5 tire.
 

kevman65

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Will cause sidewalls to bulge, may not be able to get a full tread contact patch. Might possibly rub on hard parts.
 
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Will cause sidewalls to bulge, may not be able to get a full tread contact patch. Might possibly rub on hard parts.
As far as rub on hard parts, what do you mean there?
 

kevman65

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As far as rub on hard parts, what do you mean there?
Depending on how big the bulge is on the sidewalls, they could end up rubbing on control arms and such.

In the 80's there wasn't a lot of choices on wheels for 4x4 trucks, so lots of people did as you're saying. The deflection on the sidewalls can be as much as 2" and that could put you to where you're rubbing.

The tire you're talking about is close to twice as wide as your wheel. So the bead is going to be pulled in quite a bit causing the sidewall to bulge.

You may also run into trouble blowing the tire bead loose from the wheel.
 

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That might be too wide. Yeah, it’s only an inch, but I’d drop back to a 37x12.5.

As for losing a bead, I’ve always heard you maintain the bead better with the wide tire on narrow rim.

A 12.5 on a 10” rim I’ve been told will lose a bead faster/easier than the same on a 9,8, or even 7.5” wide rim. Especially when aired down.

Local Discount tire told me a tire can even move on a rim that is wide; usually when aired down, off-road, or torque applied; hence, advent of bead locks.
 
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Jeeperjamie

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Depending on how big the bulge is on the sidewalls, they could end up rubbing on control arms and such.

In the 80's there wasn't a lot of choices on wheels for 4x4 trucks, so lots of people did as you're saying. The deflection on the sidewalls can be as much as 2" and that could put you to where you're rubbing.

The tire you're talking about is close to twice as wide as your wheel. So the bead is going to be pulled in quite a bit causing the sidewall to bulge.

You may also run into trouble blowing the tire bead loose from the wheel.
I'm running 1.75" wheel spacers on mine, it's not going to come close to anything like that. As far as bulge goes, that's what I'm more wondering about. I know I've heard of people running them just never saw any pictures or had a conversation with anyone on if they ran into any trouble.
 
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Jeeperjamie

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That might be too wide. Yeah, it’s only an inch, but I’d drop back to a 37x12.5.

As for losing a bead, I’ve always heard you maintain the bead better with the wide tire on narrow rim.

A 12.5 on a 10” rim I’ve been told will lose a bead faster/easier than the same on a 9,8, or even 7.5” wide rim. Especially when aired down.

Local Discount tire told me a tire can even move on a rim that is wide; usually when aired down, off-road, or torque applied; hence, advent of bead locks.
I've been told the same thing as well as far them holding their bead on skinnier wheels, it didn't make since to me, but a couple tire shops told me that as well when I called them about mounting 13.5" on 7.5 wheel. I really don't want to swap wheels, I may just be happy with the 37 12.5 17's I have.
 

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I have D-window steel wheels on my TJ running 33x12.5x15's and if I were to do it again I'd get alloy wheels. You can shave 10 lbs per wheel/tire by going with alloys over steel. D window steel Pro-Comps in a 17" are just shy of 40lbs each.
 
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I have D-window steel wheels on my TJ running 33x12.5x15's and if I were to do it again I'd get alloy wheels. You can shave 10 lbs per wheel/tire by going with alloys over steel. D window steel Pro-Comps in a 17" are just shy of 40lbs each.
You lose towing capacity with alloy wheels, that's why they put steel wheels on the Max Tows. Plus steel wheels are harder to mess up and bend. Not knocking alloy's at all. If I had a Overland I'd definitely run them
 

BryantJT

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You're definitely spot on with the durability. That was part of the reason I chose them, that, and they were only $60 each for a 15x8. The TJ is purely a toy, I'm putting more thought into what goes on the Gladiator.
 

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You lose towing capacity with alloy wheels, that's why they put steel wheels on the Max Tows. Plus steel wheels are harder to mess up and bend. Not knocking alloy's at all. If I had a Overland I'd definitely run them
Respectfully, no, you don’t lose towing capacity.

Sure, if you go with a rim with a reduced rating; however, many aluminum wheels have capacities that are likely in excess of the gladiators. For example, an accessory wheel offered by Jeep for the gladiator is rated at 1,900lbs.

Black Rhino has several offerings that are 2,000+lbs.
 

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