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37's on Rubicon with 1.5" level?

Renegade

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So, my Rubicon is on order and I have a few months of planning (pacing) ahead. I definitely want to run 37" tires, but my garage door is only 80" high. For anyone who already has a Rubicon, how feasible do you think it will be to run 37's with only a 1.5" leveling kit and some appropriate bump stops? By my calculation, a 2+ inch lift and 37's would put me just over 80" tall...
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So, my Rubicon is on order and I have a few months of planning (pacing) ahead. I definitely want to run 37" tires, but my garage door is only 80" high. For anyone who already has a Rubicon, how feasible do you think it will be to run 37's with only a 1.5" leveling kit and some appropriate bump stops? By my calculation, a 2+ inch lift and 37's would put me just over 80" tall...
It'll fit,
AFTER the first time.
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I'll be watching this thread. I have a Rubicon on order and should have my Alloy USA leveling kit delivered today. I'm undecided on tire size, though I'm heavily leaning towards 35's.
 

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I'll be watching this thread. I have a Rubicon on order and should have my Alloy USA leveling kit delivered today. I'm undecided on tire size, though I'm heavily leaning towards 35's.
Exact same situation here. Was thinking between 35 and ko2 37 since they run small. To me, it looks like 37s barely fit on the 2" lift. Sure you can drive on road, but forget about flexing off-road on anything less than 2".

I'm definitely going 35s with my alloy kit.
 

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37's gain you 1" additional ground clearance over the 35's that fit unmodified, you have to need that 1" pretty bad to go there.

I don't really get the virtue of spending Gladiator money only to then drop another $4-6k on tires, wheels, lift and then the requisite regear to mitigate the effects of all that on the anemic 3.6l.

But if you do, hey you do. Doesn't pick my pocket or break my arm so carry on.
 

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37's gain you 1" additional ground clearance over the 35's that fit unmodified, you have to need that 1" pretty bad to go there.

I don't really get the virtue of spending Gladiator money only to then drop another $4-6k on tires, wheels, lift and then the requisite regear to mitigate the effects of all that on the anemic 3.6l.

But if you do, hey you do. Doesn't pick my pocket or break my arm so carry on.
All of that isn’t necessarily required. I ran 37’s on my JKU with 4.10 gears and it wasn’t too bad. The 37’s roll up and over objects more easily than 35’s. My current JK is on 37’s with 4.88 gears and goes well. Tires and wheel spacers will run about $1,600. I would love to do a 2” lift but just don’t think it will fit under my door. If I can squeeze it under with the 1.5 lift I may have to do that. We will see...
 

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You're going to tow less than nothing without a regear.

Fuel mileage is absolutely going to suck.

The best spacers are a stop gap measure.

Can you shortcut your way to bro-dom? Sure you can, I just don't understand why you would. If it's entirely cosmetic and your Gladiator is just a fashion accessory, then I get it.
 
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You're going to tow less than nothing without a regear.

Fuel mileage is absolutely going to suck.

The best spacers are a stop gap measure.

Can you shortcut your way to bro-dom? Sure you can, I just don't understand why you would. If it's entirely cosmetic and your Gladiator is just a fashion accessory, then I get it.
1. I tow nothing
2. It’s a 3rd vehicle, so fuel mileage isn’t a concern
3. I’ve run spacers on my Jeeps in the past and have had no issues. I don’t like most of the backspacing options available (other than the AEV +25), so why would I throw money away on wheels that don’t fit right?
4. I was asking for an educated response based on what people with actual gladiator lift experience are seeing, and you aren’t being helpful.
5. Here you go “bro”, this is what I do with my Jeeps:

34DF0DBA-B057-4C0A-8752-D33E4D9FC729.jpeg


0BD541C0-F9F0-4AAF-A029-AA772DE2D814.jpeg
 
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Ole Cowboy

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Just remember with a set of 37's and the rest stock you should have only minor issues with getting over the curb at the Sonic Drive-In.

I have run 37's, put nearly 100k miles driving from Texas to Ca, Ut, NM, Az, FL and a lot in between. Where was I going...off roading, and "not too bad' is still NOT to good if your standard is 65 mph w AC & cruise control on...to get there, 4:88 cogs and a SC with water intercooler at 6 lbs of boost and you go from not too bad to pretty dang good.

That said:

It's YOUR wallet, YOUR Jeep, ENJOY!
 
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Renegade

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Just remember with a set of 37's and the rest stock you should have only minor issues with getting over the curb at the Sonic Drive-In.

I have run 37's, put nearly 100k miles driving from Texas to Ca, Ut, NM, Az, FL and a lot in between. Where was I going...off roading, and "not too bad' is still NOT to good if your standard is 65 mph w AC & cruise control on...to get there, 4:88 cogs and a SC with water intercooler at 6 lbs of boost and you go from not too bad to pretty dang good.

That said:

It's YOUR wallet, YOUR Jeep, ENJOY!
Did I put this question in the axles and gears forum, or the suspension forum? Maybe I asked it wrong? I don’t know...maybe we can stay on the topic? I’ve been driving Jeeps for 30 years. I know how gearing works, and don’t need to be insulted by strangers. I have kids for that...thanks.
 

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Ole Cowboy

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Did I put this question in the axles and gears forum, or the suspension forum? Maybe I asked it wrong? I don’t know...maybe we can stay on the topic? I’ve been driving Jeeps for 30 years. I know how gearing works, and don’t need to be insulted by strangers. I have kids for that...thanks.
You may want to review your post #6

"That said:

It's YOUR wallet, YOUR Jeep, ENJOY!"


IF you think that is an insult, you have led a rather sheltered life...
 

bgenlvtex

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1. I tow nothing
2. It’s a 3rd vehicle, so fuel mileage isn’t a concern
3. I’ve run spacers on my Jeeps in the past and have had no issues. I don’t like most of the backspacing options available (other than the AEV +25), so why would I throw money away on wheels that don’t fit right?
4. I was asking for an educated response based on what people with actual gladiator lift experience are seeing, and you aren’t being helpful.
5. Here you go “bro”, this is what I do with my Jeeps:

34DF0DBA-B057-4C0A-8752-D33E4D9FC729.jpeg


0BD541C0-F9F0-4AAF-A029-AA772DE2D814.jpeg
You should have read all the way to the last line. On that post and #5.

Nobody cares if you pile up money and burn it, it's yours. If you are going to get puffy eyed anytime someone points out the obvious the internet may not be for you.
 
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Renegade

Renegade

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Hey, thanks for all of the advice. If someone has some insight on whether there is any excess clearance with a 2-2.5” lift, please let me know. Thanks.
 

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So, my Rubicon is on order and I have a few months of planning (pacing) ahead. I definitely want to run 37" tires, but my garage door is only 80" high. For anyone who already has a Rubicon, how feasible do you think it will be to run 37's with only a 1.5" leveling kit and some appropriate bump stops? By my calculation, a 2+ inch lift and 37's would put me just over 80" tall...
I’m in the same boat as you. Not sure why all the internet pros have so many issues.
 

attworth

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I saw a video on YouTube where they mounted some 37’s on a stock Rubicon, and it didn’t rub full lock-to-lock. It definitely didn’t have much room to tuck, and likely would rub somewhere when it was tucked. They were running an aftermarket wheel from a JK, which looked to be near a 0 offset. But I don’t think they gave any specs on the wheels.

That being said, I imagine it’d work alright with 1.5”. Jeep claims a 37” tire will fit with a 2” lift, and manufacturers tend to err on the side of caution since there’s variance in every vehicle and every tire. If you’ve seen the wayout concept, it’s running the 2” Mopar lift and 37’s, and seems to have plenty of room to spare.
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