4.10 gears

Jraygoza

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Hello,

Will 4.10 gears from a rubicon gladiator fit my sport? I know they have the same 44 dana axle.

Thank You

 

Snake Eyes

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Hello,

Will 4.10 gears from a rubicon gladiator fit my sport? I know they have the same 44 dana axle.

Thank You
The max tow on the sport has 4.10 along with the dana, so the short answer is yes in that one can order the max tow and get the 4.10 with it in a Sport or Sport S
 

IamPro2A

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The long answer is:
With all the labor and expense of changing the gears front and back, the last place to cut corners is to install someone else's used take-off gears.

Also, that's a fair amount of money and work for such a minor gear change. In a perfect situation, you're gearing up to bring the overall gear ratio back to stock with stock Rubicon tires. Any taller tire than that and you ideally want a taller set of gears to go with it.
 

u-joint

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The long answer is:
With all the labor and expense of changing the gears front and back, the last place to cut corners is to install someone else's used take-off gears.

Also, that's a fair amount of money and work for such a minor gear change. In a perfect situation, you're gearing up to bring the overall gear ratio back to stock with stock Rubicon tires. Any taller tire than that and you ideally want a taller set of gears to go with it.
This.

Also, unless it's a backyard job, most shops don't want to deal with used gears. That's just asking for something to go sideways and you come back to them.

Also, even with a used set of gears you'll need crush sleeves & shims, and I guess you plan on reusing the bearings? Sounds sketchy to me.

And, as @IamPro2A said, I don't think I'd spend all that in parts and labor to just go with 4.10s. If you're considering a re-gear I assume that means larger tires? Consider 4.88s IMHO.
 

IamPro2A

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Also, even with a used set of gears you'll need crush sleeves & shims, and I guess you plan on reusing the bearings? Sounds sketchy to me.
Reuse the bearings? That might be an even worse idea than used gears. I've never done a Dana 44, but usually the bearings and races are press fit. They are meant for that to be done once. IF you get them out without distorting or damaging them, they still arent going to hold like they are supposed to. And bad things happen when parts spin that arent supposed to.
 


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Reuse the bearings? That might be an even worse idea than used gears. I've never done a Dana 44, but usually the bearings and races are press fit. They are meant for that to be done once. IF you get them out without distorting or damaging them, they still arent going to hold like they are supposed to. And bad things happen when parts spin that arent supposed to.
Exactly my point. Perhaps I could have worded that better.

In short, the the gears themselves are the cheap part. Between the labor, and everything else in the install, that's where the cost really adds up.

Also, I wouldn't even trust the ring gear - the installer who removed it likely wouldn't imagine anyone would reuse it. Too much risk that thing slipped right out of his hand and onto the ground.
 
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Jraygoza

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Thank you, my brother in law is going to do it ;). I'll be buying the other stuff new. I'm currently running 35s and don't plan on going any bigger.
 

Wheelin98TJ

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I agree it’s not worth the money/time to swap from 3.73 to 4.10. As long and gears and time aren’t free.

4.88 would be much better for your 35s.
 

IamPro2A

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Thank you, my brother in law is going to do it ;). I'll be buying the other stuff new. I'm currently running 35s and don't plan on going any bigger.
OK, 2 things. While 4.10s with 35s will be fairly close to the overall ratio you have now, You and your Gladiator would be happier with 4:56s. That would help just enough with the added tire size and weight to feel about the same, drivability wise.

Second, I'm sure your BiL is a great guy and a great mechanic, but is he a differential specialist? I've worked as a mechanic, (still part of my job 40yrs later) and also spent many years working in an automotive machine shop. I have built hundreds of engines from bare castings up. Setting up a differential is still one of the only jobs I will farm out. It's more than just following directions, proper tools, and attention to detail. Setting up differential gears is also part art, and part magic. You can tell me 100 times what the tooth engagement pattern in the marking compound should look like, but making all the adjustments in all 3 dimensions to make it happen? That comes with LOTS of practice.
Sure, I think most of us with enough time will get it to work. Will it sing on the highway or whine when you let off the gas? Probably.
Will it last the life of the vehicle? Probably not.
Is it a chance I'll take on a $50k-$70k personal vehicle? Twice (front and back both have to be done)? Nope.
 
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Jraygoza

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OK, 2 things. While 4.10s with 35s will be fairly close to the overall ratio you have now, You and your Gladiator would be happier with 4:56s. That would help just enough with the added tire size and weight to feel about the same, drivability wise.

Second, I'm sure your BiL is a great guy and a great mechanic, but is he a differential specialist? I've worked as a mechanic, (still part of my job 40yrs later) and also spent many years working in an automotive machine shop. I have built hundreds of engines from bare castings up. Setting up a differential is still one of the only jobs I will farm out. It's more than just following directions, proper tools, and attention to detail. Setting up differential gears is also part art, and part magic. You can tell me 100 times what the tooth engagement pattern in the marking compound should look like, but making all the adjustments in all 3 dimensions to make it happen? That comes with LOTS of practice.
Sure, I think most of us with enough time will get it to work. Will it sing on the highway or whine when you let off the gas? Probably.
Will it last the life of the vehicle? Probably not.
Is it a chance I'll take on a $50k-$70k personal vehicle? Twice (front and back both have to be done)? Nope.
Thank You IamPro2a, I completly understand your concern, he is a good mechanic, worked in many dealerships and has his own shop. I have trust he knows what he is doing and won't screw me over. He better not or I'll do the same to his sister :devil:
 


Wheelin98TJ

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Thank You IamPro2a, I completly understand your concern, he is a good mechanic, worked in many dealerships and has his own shop. I have trust he knows what he is doing and won't screw me over. He better not or I'll do the same to his sister :devil:
Ok, so let's assume he can do it.

There is still the issue with 4.10 not being deep enough for 35s.
 
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Jraygoza

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Ok, so let's assume he can do it.

There is still the issue with 4.10 not being deep enough for 35s.
I followed the gear formula and its closer to 4.10s. Why do you say not deep enough for 35s? I'm new to the whole jeep life 😁
 

IamPro2A

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Ok, so let's assume he can do it.

There is still the issue with 4.10 not being deep enough for 35s.
Right. The stock Rubicon with the stock 4.10s has 33" tires. Hell, even my Sport S with the Max Toe has 4:10 gears with the same size stock tires as the OP's.
 

IamPro2A

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I followed the gear formula and its closer to 4.10s. Why do you say not deep enough for 35s? I'm new to the whole jeep life 😁
mathematically, you are correct. I think 4.15 or something would be exact. But real world is different. You have bigger tires, they weigh more. They have more rotational mass. It takes more horsepower to get them rolling ( and stopped). That adds stress to the axles and differential. Like I said, even the Max Tow Sport gets 4.10s with the same 31.5s you have, and the Jeeps with 33s like the Rubicon all get 4.10s stock. There's a reason Jeep uses 4.10s for 33" tires.

Can you run 35s on your 4.10 Rubicon without regearing? Sure, plenty do. It
s a bit dogish but drivable. But if you are already regearing, the gears are only a few hundred bucks per differential. For $500-600 more to do the job (assuming the used 4.10s are free), you would be a whole lot happier.
 
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IamPro2A

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Think of the differential gearing like the gears on a 10spd bike. The taller the gear on the back wheel is, the easier it is for you to pedal the bike. It's kind of the same thing here. A higher numerical gear lightens the load on parts of the driveline and makes it easier for your engine/trans/transfer case to turn.

And since you are new to Jeeps, and I'm guessing new to modifying 4x4s in general, I just want to be very clear you need to change gears in both front and rear, unlike 2wd vehicles with only one differential. I've seen plenty of lifted Jeeps and other trucks where they only did the rears to save money, and disconnected the 4 wheel drive stuff.

 

 
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