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Add 850w heavy duty cooling fan to 3.6L Gladiator that didn't come with it. ( no Tow Package or Max Tow )

ecidiego

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As always mod at your own risk. There are LARGE amperages involved here. You *MUST* ensure your fusing and the wires involved are rated for each other. Fuse protects the wire not the device.

PARTS:

MOPAR 850w Fan for JL and JT:
68272755AD
MOPAR 240a Alternator for JL and JT: 56029803AA
MOPAR Z Case Fuse Array for vehicles with 850w fan *and* 100a rated factory wiring to the fan from Z5: 68368854AA

You already have the alt if you have factory installed aux switches.

You may already have the fuse array if you have *any* Gladiator. While I've seen the 60a Z5 on Wranglers....have not on Gladiators but you're going to check.

You can get the fan for a steal here, pulled off trucks doing V8 conversions:

https://www.rubitrux.com/mopar-68272755-radiator-fan-cooling-module-shroud.html

Don't put the fan on a 180a alternator. While it may work, I was thinking that's a huge difference....180a to 240a in the tow package or aux switch package. I was about to buy a 240a but then realized I had a 220a....from the 8.4 Premium Audio package. I installed the fan and it's working fine with the 220a. There is no BCM config or ECU tuning involved. This is all wires and fuses.

Some things to consider:

Z Case Fuse Array:


ALWAYS check your Z case fuse array on the PDC for 100a on Z5. ALWAYS disconnect and separate the battery grounds and fender grounds when checking this. You remove the PDC fusebox cover, remove all 6 cables, and gently lift the fuse array out. If you are uncomfortable doing this do not attempt this mod or ask someone to help you. If you have the 60a, you MUST replace this array with the 100a version. My 2021 had the 100a despite not having the tow package or aux switches. It's possible they all have it now but check anyway. If you have the 60a, you also need to make sure the wiring from Z5 to your fan is capable of 100a. Unknown if Jeep used a different harness here but if they did you need it. ALWAYS check for 300a on Z7. This will ensure you can handle all of the alternators available for the Gladiator. If you have something lower, you need to upgrade that harness too. I haven't seen anything but 300a here. Credit to @ShadowsPapa for alerting me to check this. If your fuse array doesn't look like this, you MUST buy MOPAR part # 68368854AA and check your fan and alternator harnesses/cables :

Jeep Gladiator Add 850w heavy duty cooling fan to 3.6L Gladiator that didn't come with it. ( no Tow Package or Max Tow ) 1


Jeep Gladiator Add 850w heavy duty cooling fan to 3.6L Gladiator that didn't come with it. ( no Tow Package or Max Tow ) 2


Alternators:

MOPAR 56029597AB 180a
: comes with Gladiators missing all three of these: 8.4 Premium Audio, Aux Switches, Tow Package. Not good enough for the 850w fan....upgrade to the 240a.

MOPAR 56029765AA 220a: comes with Gladiators with 8.4 Premium Audio but missing Aux Switches and Tow Package. I am using this with the 850w fan right now. No issues yet. If there are I will upgrade to the 240a.

MOPAR 56029803AA 240a: comes with Gladiators with either the Tow Package, Aux Switches, or both. If you have the Tow Package you aren't reading this thread. You have the fan. All a factory Aux Switch truck needs is the fan and *possibly* the 100a Z5 fuse array.

The last character/letter in each part # often increments as revisions happen.

Cliffs:

1. Always check Z Case Fuse Array for 100a Z5 and 300a Z7. If lesser, upgrade fuse array and check wiring to fan and alt...upgrade if necessary.

2. If you have a 180a alt, upgrade to 240a. 220a, try it. 240a, good to go on alternator but for all 3 circle back to 1 above and check your Z Case Fuse Array for 100a Z5 and 300a Z7.

3. Did I mention to check your Z Case Fuse Array for 100a Z5 and 300a Z7, and if lower, check both your Z5 wiring to fan and Z7 wiring to alternator?

Directions:

Tools: 8mm and 10mm socket and some extensions. Trim tool for the top 4 push retainers that mount the cover to the fan shroud.


1. To be super safe, remove cables from main battery negative and separate them. Wrap with rags so they don't touch anything or each other. Remove body ground cables from fender. Wrap with rags so they don't touch anything or each other.

2. Remove two 10mm bolts on top of the radiator cover that secure the air intake tube.

3. Loosen the worm clamps at the air filter box and the throttle body. Pull air intake tube off at both ends and rotate 180 degrees, setting it aside by laying it on top of the PCM. You can leave the wiring and clips attached to it this way, you're just getting it out of the way.

4. Remove air filter box. One 10mm bolt on passenger fender. Then wiggle it upwards. The bottom is just squeezed in with rubber posts. Set it aside.

5. Remove the top plastic cover that hides the radiator and fan shroud. 4 plastic push pins. I pried the plastic up WITH the pin by putting the trim tool under the plastic trim, instead of under the push pin. Pop all 4 loose and out of the fan shroud, then slide the plastic backwards towards the engine and it will come out.

6. Disconnect the fan connector, passenger side top. Press the release tab down ( inwards ) and pull apart.

7. Remove two 8mm bolts that attach fan shroud to vehicle. They are near the top left and right sides. Red circles below.

8. Lift the fan assembly up and out. While doing so, on the left you need to very carefully nudge the A/C lines out of the molded in channel in the fan shroud. I didn't grab them right at the channel, I put my hand on them lower down, where they are braided. They seemed to move easier by manipulating them from there. If there is a lot of resistance, STOP. Don't break your A/C lines. Gentle. Gentle. Gentle. The channel is the green circle in the image below. You also need to bend the upper radiator hose on the right slightly outboard to clear the mounting tab there. Red circle on left of image below.

9. Install is reverse of removal. Make sure the tabs in the yellow circles of the image below slide into the "holders". Deal with the A/C lines carefully as you did on removal and get them back into the molded in channel.

10. Test for operation. My fan didn't turn on till about 160F coolant temp. Don't say "oh shit" when it doesn't spin on startup. Isn't supposed to.

Image below is the 600w fan. I didn't take a good pic of the 850w fan. The physical layout is the same:

Jeep Gladiator Add 850w heavy duty cooling fan to 3.6L Gladiator that didn't come with it. ( no Tow Package or Max Tow ) 3


Disclaimer: again mod at your own risk. If you don't understand voltages and current DON'T touch this. Too many things can go wrong. My thread is for mechanics and savvy modders. All risk is YOURS.
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Last edited:
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ecidiego

ecidiego

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Big difference between the two fans. If you wheel in hot climates like me ( California deserts ), it's a worthwhile mod. Now my Mojave is "Desert Rated" for real.

Jeep Gladiator Add 850w heavy duty cooling fan to 3.6L Gladiator that didn't come with it. ( no Tow Package or Max Tow ) ddddd
 

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ecidiego

ecidiego

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Added the 240 alt. No problems with the 220 I just have OCD.

Tip for loosening the belt....




Then just pop it off the A/C compressor but make sure the rest of the belt stays as is....leaves enough slack to pull the alt. Ignore me talking about the idler pulley in the video...AC was easier. Also... release the 2 Christmas tree giant connector from the vacuum pump bracket...just pry it off. No need to disconnect the connectors. Put back when done.

2 big alt bolts : 46 ft lbs.
2 small alt bolts : 18 ft lbs
2 vacuum pump bolts : 18 ft lbs
Alternator pos cable : 15 ft lbs
 

Jobofly

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Do you know if a 2022 Mojave comes with the 100a and 300a?
 

LouisvEarlleJT

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For anyone looking to do this, I just got off the phone with my dealer's parts department and per my VIN ('23 JT Willys) they were able to confirm that mine was built with the correct Z-case fuse array to do this swap. He also confirmed that by searching via VIN number their system will only give the parts that came on the truck.

My truck was built in February of '23, and did not come with trailer-tow or aux switches.

It was a really easy process to make the call if anyone else wants to, but I'd wager that with that information and the fact that when you look the part up online only 1 option shows up for the MY23 that all 2023 trucks came with the higher amp Z-case fuse array.
 

Jobofly

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For anyone looking to do this, I just got off the phone with my dealer's parts department and per my VIN ('23 JT Willys) they were able to confirm that mine was built with the correct Z-case fuse array to do this swap. He also confirmed that by searching via VIN number their system will only give the parts that came on the truck.

My truck was built in February of '23, and did not come with trailer-tow or aux switches.

It was a really easy process to make the call if anyone else wants to, but I'd wager that with that information and the fact that when you look the part up online only 1 option shows up for the MY23 that all 2023 trucks came with the higher amp Z-case fuse array.
Can you give me your dealers phone number? My dealer is an idiot and I know more about Gladiators than they do.
 

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LouisvEarlleJT

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Can you give me your dealers phone number? My dealer is an idiot and I know more about Gladiators than they do.
I feel like I really lucked out finding these guys, everyone who works there is a Jeep nut. They're also a certified AEV dealer. It's Cross Jeep in Louisville, KY. The parts desk # is 502-305-9627
 

Jobofly

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For anyone looking to do this, I just got off the phone with my dealer's parts department and per my VIN ('23 JT Willys) they were able to confirm that mine was built with the correct Z-case fuse array to do this swap. He also confirmed that by searching via VIN number their system will only give the parts that came on the truck.

My truck was built in February of '23, and did not come with trailer-tow or aux switches.

It was a really easy process to make the call if anyone else wants to, but I'd wager that with that information and the fact that when you look the part up online only 1 option shows up for the MY23 that all 2023 trucks came with the higher amp Z-case fuse array.
Just confirmed with you parts department that I do have this MOPAR part # 68368854AA
 
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As always mod at your own risk. There are LARGE amperages involved here. You *MUST* ensure your fusing and the wires involved are rated for each other. Fuse protects the wire not the device.

PARTS:

MOPAR 850w Fan for JL and JT:
68272755AD
MOPAR 240a Alternator for JL and JT: 56029803AA
MOPAR Z Case Fuse Array for vehicles with 850w fan *and* 100a rated factory wiring to the fan from Z5: 68368854AA

You already have the the alt if you have factory installed aux switches.

You may already have the fuse array if you have *any* Gladiator. While I've seen the 60a Z5 on Wranglers....have not on Gladiators but you're going to check.

You can get the fan for a steal here, pulled off trucks doing V8 conversions:

https://www.rubitrux.com/mopar-68272755-radiator-fan-cooling-module-shroud.html

Don't put the fan on a 180a alternator. While it may work, I was thinking that's a huge difference....180a to 240a in the tow package or aux switch package. I was about to buy a 240a but then realized I had a 220a....from the 8.4 Premium Audio package. I installed the fan and it's working fine with the 220a. There is no BCM config or ECU tuning involved. This is all wires and fuses.

Some things to consider:

Z Case Fuse Array:


ALWAYS check your Z case fuse array on the PDC for 100a on Z5. ALWAYS disconnect and separate the battery grounds and fender grounds when checking this. You remove the PDC fusebox cover, remove all 6 cables, and gently lift the fuse array out. If you are uncomfortable doing this do not attempt this mod or ask someone to help you. If you have the 60a, you MUST replace this array with the 100a version. My 2021 had the 100a despite not having the tow package or aux switches. It's possible they all have it now but check anyway. If you have the 60a, you also need to make sure the wiring from Z5 to your fan is capable of 100a. Unknown if Jeep used a different harness here but if they did you need it. ALWAYS check for 300a on Z7. This will ensure you can handle all of the alternators available for the Gladiator. If you have something lower, you need to upgrade that harness too. I haven't seen anything but 300a here. Credit to @ShadowsPapa for alerting me to check this. If your fuse array doesn't look like this, you MUST buy MOPAR part # 68368854AA and check your fan and alternator harnesses/cables :

Jeep Gladiator Add 850w heavy duty cooling fan to 3.6L Gladiator that didn't come with it. ( no Tow Package or Max Tow ) IMG_9952


Jeep Gladiator Add 850w heavy duty cooling fan to 3.6L Gladiator that didn't come with it. ( no Tow Package or Max Tow ) IMG_9952


Alternators:

MOPAR 56029597AB 180a
: comes with Gladiators missing all three of these: 8.4 Premium Audio, Aux Switches, Tow Package. Not good enough for the 850w fan....upgrade to the 240a.

MOPAR 56029765AA 220a: comes with Gladiators with 8.4 Premium Audio but missing Aux Switches and Tow Package. I am using this with the 850w fan right now. No issues yet. If there are I will upgrade to the 240a.

MOPAR 56029803AA 240a: comes with Gladiators with either the Tow Package, Aux Switches, or both. If you have the Tow Package you aren't reading this thread. You have the fan. All a factory Aux Switch truck needs is the fan and *possibly* the 100a Z5 fuse array.

The last character/letter in each part # often increments as revisions happen.

Cliffs:

1. Always check Z Case Fuse Array for 100a Z5 and 300a Z7. If lesser, upgrade fuse array and check wiring to fan and alt...upgrade if necessary.

2. If you have a 180a alt, upgrade to 240a. 220a, try it. 240a, good to go on alternator but for all 3 circle back to 1 above and check your Z Case Fuse Array for 100a Z5 and 300a Z7.

3. Did I mention to check your Z Case Fuse Array for 100a Z5 and 300a Z7, and if lower, check both your Z5 wiring to fan and Z7 wiring to alternator?

Directions:

Tools: 8mm and 10mm socket and some extensions. Trim tool for the top 4 push retainers that mount the cover to the fan shroud.


1. To be super safe, remove cables from main battery negative and separate them. Wrap with rags so they don't touch anything or each other. Remove body ground cables from fender. Wrap with rags so they don't touch anything or each other.

2. Remove two 10mm bolts on top of the radiator cover that secure the air intake tube.

3. Loosen the worm clamps at the air filter box and the throttle body. Pull air intake tube off at both ends and rotate 180 degrees, setting it aside by laying it on top of the PCM. You can leave the wiring and clips attached to it this way, you're just getting it out of the way.

4. Remove air filter box. One 10mm bolt on passenger fender. Then wiggle it upwards. The bottom is just squeezed in with rubber posts. Set it aside.

5. Remove the top plastic cover that hides the radiator and fan shroud. 4 plastic push pins. I pried the plastic up WITH the pin by putting the trim tool under the plastic trim, instead of under the push pin. Pop all 4 loose and out of the fan shroud, then slide the plastic backwards towards the engine and it will come out.

6. Disconnect the fan connector, passenger side top. Press the release tab down ( inwards ) and pull apart.

7. Remove two 8mm bolts that attach fan shroud to vehicle. They are near the top left and right sides. Red circles below.

8. Lift the fan assembly up and out. While doing so, on the left you need to very carefully nudge the A/C lines out of the molded in channel in the fan shroud. I didn't grab them right at the channel, I put my hand on them lower down, where they are braided. They seemed to move easier by manipulating them from there. If there is a lot of resistance, STOP. Don't break your A/C lines. Gentle. Gentle. Gentle. The channel is the green circle in the image below. You also need to bend the upper radiator hose on the right slightly outboard to clear the mounting tab there. Red circle on left of image below.

9. Install is reverse of removal. Make sure the tabs in the yellow circles of the image below slide into the "holders". Deal with the A/C lines carefully as you did on removal and get them back into the molded in channel.

10. Test for operation. My fan didn't turn on till about 160F coolant temp. Don't say "oh shit" when it doesn't spin on startup. Isn't supposed to.

Image below is the 600w fan. I didn't take a good pic of the 850w fan. The physical layout is the same:

Jeep Gladiator Add 850w heavy duty cooling fan to 3.6L Gladiator that didn't come with it. ( no Tow Package or Max Tow ) IMG_9952


Disclaimer: again mod at your own risk. If you don't understand voltages and current DON'T touch this. Too many things can go wrong. My thread is for mechanics and savvy modders. All risk is YOURS.
I have a ‘23 JT Willys, do you recommend beefier rear spring coils in addition to these modifications for a better Towing experience?
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